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Winch Warranty's who to support and when to walk, WARN,Smittybilt,Runva,Ironman,Tmax etc

Discussion in 'General 4x4 Discussion' started by Swaggie, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. Mr Rum

    Mr Rum Well-Known Member

    With my limited experience, I’m going to go out on a limb and say it’s often likely due to poor maintenance.

    I’ve only ever had the one winch, a Toyota supplied Superwinch that I fitted early last year. Being my first winch it’s all I’ve known, so I wouldn’t know if it’s easy to pull out or not, except I’ve actually had a couple of people comment as I’ve walked it out saying they’d never seen one come out so easily.

    Since then, I’ve helped my brother with his Warn after he had clutch issues. It was on the car when he bought it, so we have no idea about it’s past, but it did all work at first. It took a bit of effort to spoil out though, and before he got around to checking it out, the clutch decided it wouldn’t disengage.
    This meant, of the three times he needed it that day, he ran it out the slow way twice, and not keen to do it a third time, sweet talked me into pulling out mine to drag him through.

    When he pulled it apart to see what the go was, the clutch was rusted solid, and there was a tide line on everything inside.
    He chose to rebuild it, new parts where needed, and though he still doesn’t reckon it’s as free as my Superwinch, it’s not far off it since the repairs.

    And after seeing our two winches in action, our old man chose to get a Superwinch for himself, and it free spools the same as mine.
     
  2. dno67

    dno67 Well-Known Member

    Mine is really hard to pull out free spooling, mainly due to the amount of thick
    grease I put inside of it. Was very easy before I filled it with grease.
     
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  3. Marck

    Marck Well-Known Member

    What grease do you recommend my carbon winch is coming out for a service after the next trip to Fraser it’s a first generation unit so I want to tap a breather and a couple of grease nippels into it so I don’t have to pull it out for a basic service.
     
  4. GaryM

    GaryM Well-Known Member

    When i looked into swapping the factory grease as I had read Chinese grease has been found with metal swath and the like in it... so best to change from outset.
    ...advice from Runva was nothing too thick or heavy, but not runny, but they had no specific recommendations apart from that.

    Id want wateproof, and heat resistant for sure, but most grease is bad for rubber ... such as seals and rubber gaskets. Keep in mind moly is not good for bearings as it makes them slide more than roll, which has to make for less round bearings/needles over time, maybe. Its right for say bushing and slip joints (so gears and shafts) etc but technically not for winch bearings I would think.

    So I ended up talking with an old guy at an oil distributor near me, and the conclusion was a Castrol grease and its blue. I think its EDP, Ill look when I go to the shed later and edit based on his recommendation. He had never picked a grease for a winch either but tended to agree with what I said so tried to find a grease that fit as much of that as possible.

    But I think I will use a ruibber grease to keep the seals right and trust that grease is good, if its clean. So long as it lubes well, its not like it will run for hours. The seals seem the most sensitve part to consider.


    Edit: Just back from my shed, its the replacement for LMX.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2017
  5. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Your best off using molybdenum disulfide (moly) to reduce wear by maintaining lubrication under conditions of high friction and shock loads.

    Some winches are just harder to freespool even tho they could be brand new and in excellent condition, like my Warn, I don't freespool it, some winches you can freespool with your pinky...
     
    phs likes this.
  6. dno67

    dno67 Well-Known Member

    I put as much as I could get in there.
    Next time I'll just make sure everything is covered lightly.
    This is what I used.
    Ultra-Duty®Grease is a premium, heavy-duty EP grease containing a high viscosity mineral oil, lithium thickener, effective EP additive, rust and oxidation inhibitors and tackiness agent. Ultra-Duty®Grease has stay-in-place properties that make it particularly suitable for equipment operating in wet, muddy or dusty conditions. Red in color.

    Features
    • Outstanding film strength and effective EP additive
    • Extreme tackiness
    • Excellent resistance to water wash out
    • Superior adhesiveness
    • Highly effective rust and corrosion inhibitors
    Benefits
    • Outstanding film strength and effective EP additive protect against component wear under severe conditions and shock loading
    • Extreme tackiness maintains sealing collar of grease around bushings which prevents the ingress of abrasive dirt
    • Excellent resistance to water wash out ensures lubrication is maintained under extremely wet and muddy conditions
    • Superior adhesiveness ensures grease stays in place and resists leakage, even in the most severe and shock load conditions, making it possible to extend relubrication intervals
    • Highly effective rust and corrosion inhibitors protect metal surfaces, even under extremely wet conditions
     
  7. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Of course they don't talk about water ingress and warranties regarding this which is crucial when mild steel is involved.. I still cannot get a clear answer off any manufacturer as to why they won't use the CRC Electro paint as protection, oh I'll get back to you on it.. Lol, my Warn has lasted 3 years since using it including many river crossings, plus I believe the breather helps instead of failing every 3 months from new...
    Does any member have the results of this text...

     
  8. Thug

    Thug Active Member

    Well there you go my money well spent! Thanks for the vid.
     
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  9. hiluxdriver

    hiluxdriver Well-Known Member

    Test was printed in issue 404, Sept 2017. Runva EWX was the winner, TJM TORQ was runner up
     
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  10. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Thanks mate..
     
  11. Masso

    Masso New Member

    What was the outcome for the Carbon Winches 12k winch?!
     
  12. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    You have to change the seals on a yearly basis for the warranty of 5 years, first year supplied then after that you have to pay for them, I'd guess some vehicles you'd have to remove the bullbar etc, big job, the other winches in the buy section do not require this..

    That's my understanding of it...
    Cheers
     
    phs likes this.
  13. Masso

    Masso New Member

    Good to know. Would you buy one?
     
  14. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Hi mate
    I helped someone I knew (met a couple of times) not long ago and it turned to crap over something he did.. So I don't like to comment...Sorry
    Oh it wasn't Carbon either...

    A bit of effort/research was required to add the winches into the buy section, talking to manufacturers personally etc making sure where they stand and receiving written confirmation personally back then. One improved there warranty from 3 to 5 years.. All in the BUY section have been real easy to deal with. Some have in the Walk section too but have been unable to confirm/change there warranty unfortunately. Since the thread was started i havent had one complaint regarding them...

    A member pulled his Runva winch apart last week its been on his vehicle for 5 years,has been through many rivers, mud etc and some flooded areas up north, his review will be posted in the coming weeks..

    Goodluck with your choice...
    Cheers
     
    Buxter likes this.
  15. Masso

    Masso New Member

    I got mine literally last week, installed professionally and i'm pretty excited to get out and give it a run. Happy to give you thoughts etc on it once i've had a play with it.
     
    Swaggie likes this.
  16. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Kool mate....
    Just remember also to keep pressure washers away from it, that goes for any winch...
     
  17. Buxter

    Buxter Well-Known Member

    Runva EWX 12000 Stripdown and Service after 5 years plus, on 2 vehicles.

    2 1/2 years back, I removed the Winch from the Patrol, before selling it, and with a slight adjustment to one of the brackets at the motor end of the winch bar, fitted it to our "new/secondhand" 79 Series V8 Diesel Landcruiser
    Thanks to Joey, my neighbour for the lift

    A mobile phone snappin foto's is the go (as we do these days), it's the best reference library you can have !

    Firstly the back of control box, then the rear of the Winch itself, whilst still on the "Cruiser" .
    I numbered all the cabled to the connection points, a very handy move I found out later.
    And a big thank you to Mr Runva for colour coding the cables also. Even a "dummy" like me can follow things.

    IMG_20171120_175146271.jpg

    another view, this time with other wires attached

    IMG_20171120_175229899.jpg IMG_20171120_173625433.jpg

    Bull-Bar, out and Winch out of the Cruiser

    IMG_20171120_195625759.jpg

    IMG_20171120_200407745.jpg

    Now the fun begins
    I broke the winch into 3 obvious parts, the gearbox, tackled first, the drum and brake, and lastly the electric motor.

    IMG_20171120_202654734.jpg

    The gearbox end seal was in good nick, so it was removed and re-greased.
    The grease inside the gearbox has seen better days, and there appears to be a slight hint of water.
    Surprisingly good, for the amount of work it has done, and the number of river crossings, and outback floods it has been thru since first installed in the Poootrol, some 5 years back.

    IMG_20171121_173644756.jpg
    Flip side of the gearbox end plate, (drum spool seal)

    IMG_20171121_174417347.jpg
    Gear packs being removed, and inspected, all the way to the bottom of the gearbox, then the inner slide activation gear.
    It's the location of the gears that is important and not the names, (hehehehe) IMG_20171121_174503633.jpg

    All gear packs had foto's taken, and placed on another part of the bench, "in order" that they were removed, awaiting a bath in 50/50 petrol-diesel mix.

    IMG_20171121_175039031.jpg

    That looks pretty "gungy" down there, but lubrication id better than in a lot of winches I have seen whilst researching "winch rebuilds"
    Finally the outer slide/engaging ring is removed.

    IMG_20171121_175656423.jpg

    As i said before, I had made up a bath of 50/50 diesel-petrol mix, in a plastic bucket, and it was "bath and dry out time" for everything.
    Keeping in mind that "order of removal" was individually reversed.


    IMG_20171122_130517636_HDR.jpg


    IMG_20171122_130521223.jpg


    IMG_20171122_130530221.jpg


    Once the gearbox was fully greased, I then slipped it into a clean plastic bag and put it aside for a few days, until final assembling of the complete winch took place.

    IMG_20171122_132158348.jpg

    Note ........ put things down in order, and when re-assembling reverse that order.

    Part 2 will follow in a couple of days

    Cheers Buxter
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2017
  18. Spooner

    Spooner Well-Known Member

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  19. Buxter

    Buxter Well-Known Member

    Runva Winch
    Electric Motor Clean up

    Here is what I found when I pulled down the electric motor..very good for 5+years of working it, trying to drown it, and burying it in mud and sand. More of an anode reaction than rust, aluminium end-cap, on a steel tube. It cleaned up easily

    IMG_20171121_065546101.jpg

    I then went about cleaning up the rust off the HD wire connection bolts on the outside of the motor, and sealed all with sikaflex.

    IMG_20171121_114254349.jpg

    The rotor looked good, as did the field wiring packs, so they were all left alone.
    The bearings were perfect.

    IMG_20171121_114202496.jpg IMG_20171121_114210247.jpg

    The brushes had plenty of life left in them, but I had accidentally put tension on one of the delivery wires to the back of the brush, and on re-assebbling, the brush at 10 o'clock in the photo would not seat properly., I did not pick up that problem until after I re-assembled the motor, on the bench, and then had to pull it apart, ring up my mate, and "sook up" for a while.
    Der me !
    IMG_20171124_172247039.jpg



    The winch drum

    IMG_20171122_145054717.jpg

    and after !
    IMG_20171122_151617272.jpg

    inside the winch drum IMG_20171122_145239102.jpg

    The winch brake !
    And I forgot to take a photo or do a short video of it, as it came out of the inner drum.
    It took forever to get it right, and I am only 95% sure I got it correct. What I did realise is, that it's self centering, and my y only hope is to go and give it a big test day. It sure is painful little animal.

    IMG_20171122_145200514.jpg

    The finished article, all sealed up and very clean, and waiting to be wired up to a battery to be tested, and then to go back into "Old Tojo"

    IMG_20171124_082212238.jpg

    All in all, I'm happy with the job I did
    It took 8 to 10 days, a bit here and a bit there. I was not in a hurry !
    I put the Bullbar back onto "Old Tojo" the next day, so I still could get around, and about 10 days later the winch was back in.
    The finished product is back in for couple of weeks now, but untested. That will happen shortly, as I will go out onto a Mates Dairy farm and drag a big dead tree down with it.
    That will be interesting !.

    As I said before, I do regret not doing a few phone Videos on things as they came apart, would have made reassembling a little easier

    Cheers
    Buxter
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2017
    GaryM, phs, billolga and 6 others like this.
  20. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Nice write up mate...
     

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