Winch Isolator (Runva 11xp)

A

AlienCamel

New Member
Hey fellas,

Fried me winch a few weeks ago. Just had me car serviced and got them to look at it while they had it. They reckon the isolator had water in it and needs a new isolator?

Dumb as but what am I actually trying to buy or replace? A solenoid or what? Any links as to what i should be buying?

New to this and TJM are sneaky and also charge a fortune so dont wanna go in and talk to them if I can get the info here and buy what I need online and replace it myself.

Cheers.
 
Choook

Choook

Well-Known Member
There is quite a difference between an isolator and a solenoid. I have an isolator which is under the bonnet similar to @billolga a 500A job. The solenoid, if that is what they are talking about, is in the control box and can be affected by water. Might pay to take the cover off the control box and see if the is any corrosion etc inside. If it is the solenoid it shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement online or at an auto store.
 
mac_man_luke

mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
If its the isolator i have had nothing but bad luck with them on winches, always seem to fail for no reason at all.
I removed mine and have just wired the solenoid up so that it cant activate unless a switch is flipped first. Just need to switch the small ground wire in the control box.
 
billolga

billolga

Well-Known Member
mac_man_luke said:
If its the isolator i have had nothing but bad luck with them on winches, always seem to fail for no reason at all.
I removed mine and have just wired the solenoid up so that it cant activate unless a switch is flipped first. Just need to switch the small ground wire in the control box.
Click to expand...
Winches draw HEAPS of power so you must get a heavy duty Isolator.
 
mac_man_luke

mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
billolga said:
Winches draw HEAPS of power so you must get a heavy duty Isolator.
Click to expand...
I am switching the control circuit for the solenoid, with the ground disconnected from the control circuit the solenoid can not operate.

I had high current isolators previously (including one supplied by runva) and even without use they failed. No doubt not the best quality but without searching its the most common style available
 
dno67

dno67

Well-Known Member
Cheapest and easy isolator, one of these
Welding lead quick connect, just use the female on the battery side.
Screenshot_2018-10-13-16-44-19.png
 
Hoyks

Hoyks

Well-Known Member
mac_man_luke said:
I removed mine and have just wired the solenoid up so that it cant activate unless a switch is flipped first. Just need to switch the small ground wire in the control box.
Click to expand...
I installed an isolator as I wasn't keen on the insulation on any live wires getting damaged in a moderate front impact and burning the vehicle out.
I have something like this one under the bonnet, I like it because the terminals are protected from accidental shorting and it got a god spray of corrosion inhibitor so water doesn't pool.
Amp rating wise its right on the winch power consumption limits though.

s-l640.jpg

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/NARVA-Mas...l-Switch-Suits-up-to-48vdc-61082BL/3017021308
 
A

AlienCamel

New Member
Only just seen alot of the replies to this.
Appreciate it guys.
Its definitely the isolator. Ive emailed Runva to see if they will replace it under warranty and if not ill have a look at a few of the options listed here. Might even have a crack at movin it further under the bonnet or even into the cab

Cheers again!
 
Petunia

Petunia

Well-Known Member
AlienCamel said:
Only just seen alot of the replies to this.
Appreciate it guys.
Its definitely the isolator. Ive emailed Runva to see if they will replace it under warranty and if not ill have a look at a few of the options listed here. Might even have a crack at movin it further under the bonnet or even into the cab

Cheers again!
Click to expand...
As someone mentioned, Winches draw a heap of Angry Amps so moving an isolator further than from battery to winch in the shortest possible way, with the heaviest possible cable, in my opinion will just lead to further problems. A cable run into the cab will be like buying Kmart 200amp jumper cables, good for one start if it starts, if it don't start, them damn cables going to melt.
 
A

AlienCamel

New Member
All sorted, i Just done a cheap 30 dollar fix and replaced the isolator as it is with a rubber cap over the nozzle type bit, might stop water. if not, ill replace it again. Very cheap fix.

Cheers for the help guys.
 
Buxter

Buxter

Well-Known Member
AlienCamel said:
Hey fellas,

Fried me winch a few weeks ago. Just had me car serviced and got them to look at it while they had it. They reckon the isolator had water in it and needs a new isolator?

Dumb as but what am I actually trying to buy or replace? A solenoid or what? Any links as to what i should be buying?

New to this and TJM are sneaky and also charge a fortune so dont wanna go in and talk to them if I can get the info here and buy what I need online and replace it myself.

Cheers.
Click to expand...
Mate
Just do what I do.
Disconnect the positive winch from the battery, cable tie it back to a remote place, and hook it up the day before you go up the bush.
 
L

LeighW

New Member
If your only worried about preventing the winch operating the solenoid units I have had all have a small earth
wire that connects to the solenoid coils, if it has a remote most likely this will also connect to the same small
earth wire. If you disconnect that earth wire the solenoids can't operate. I just have that wired through
a small relay to earth. The relay is operated by a switch on the dash.
 
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