What do i do about all this rust along the roof/roofrack slide on my Maverick?

Belfy82

Active Member
Hi Adrian,

I'm a panel beater of 15yrs now mate,

Being what it is and that is pretty nasty rust there mate the only way to stop it is to cut all the rust out and weld new patches in,.

However Les pk ranger has summed this up the best IMO. Being your first 4x4 and given what you have paid for it I think the quick fix is best for this application. Just to get it in roadworthy and in your name to get you on the road. Rust will eventually come back in a few years down the track (thats when its time to look at upgrading or just living with the rust) but at that stage the car will not be going in for a roady anyway and it will become someone else's problem when you sell it! To be perfectly honest with you 80% of the rust repairs I have done have been the quick fix and easy way out. If your plan was restoring it best way is to get a good roof cut from wreckers and get a whole new (secondhand) roof and roof braces Welded on to it, how ever from what I've gathered from your first post you just want to get it on the road and get out there and have some fun as cheap as possible. So fibreglass filler is the trick.

Mac the truck,

Good old lead wipe now that's taken me back:D, just finding someone who will do this these days is a fair task in itself and really only used in old vehicle restoration work these days by the GOOD old tradesmen. I'm not debuting this is the best method to use for a repair job however the cost involved with getting someone to do the job in this case it would just not be worth it. But thanks for the trip back to my trade school days mate:D that is the last time I used that method, get the ol oxy out and heat, wipe and Finnish the metal file hey. Good stuff. Things like that are going to be non existent soon as there will be no one who is even experienced enough to teach it to the newer generations. Sad really! Just isn't cost effective enough for shops to be using it these days unless it is a resto shop and someone paying out of their nose for a classic old resto job.

Cheers,
Shannon.
 

Belfy82

Active Member
Les PK Ranger,

Are you a beater also are you mate as you description on that first page there is spot on and a bit of a give away! Only thing I'm going to suggest is use hook it's instead of stickits mate they tend to hang on a bit better:)

If not you must have done a lot of this stuff before!

Cheers mate,
Shannon.
 

muc the truck

Well-Known Member
lead free lead wiping is a big thin in usa and Canada , Its easy to do , if you mess up just melt and scrap it off . its something a beginner can do to ensure when the give there car to the painter there car is not a bog chariot . flux is the key to making it stick to the metal and you push it around with timber paddles soaked in engine oil . my 79 panel vans roof is lead wiped factory, holden did the wb vans like this too.
 

bally

Banned
i would not be cutting or welding that, who knows where else there is rust... i could almost gaurentee you that your foot wells have cracked along their seems and rusting there too and more then likely the seams in the engine bay on the firewall. best way to fix this is to do a cab swap. at least that way you can strip the other cab back fully when prepping it ready to go on and in doing so make sure its clean and rust free. your just chasing your tail here with that much rust already set in.

just saw how much you payed for this and you should be slapping yourself for doing so. its a gq, there is THOUSANDS of them out there, cab or motor swap or spare parts is about all this is good for.
 
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Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
Les PK Ranger,

Are you a beater also are you mate as you description on that first page there is spot on and a bit of a give away! Only thing I'm going to suggest is use hook it's instead of stickits mate they tend to hang on a bit better:)

If not you must have done a lot of this stuff before!

Cheers mate,
Shannon.

Yes Shannon, did it for about 12 years from time I left school, late 70s.
Found it was affecting my hearing too much, nad even a sitch to painting didn't help get away from the noise. so bailed to oher industries.

Have all my tools still, do a bit now and then, just bought a little ebay 4" random sander with velcro pad and some disks, was going to try it out when I do a few little dings on the Ranger soon.

Now, though, will be fixing this in my brothers shop up in QLD in a few weeks, so will use his tools and booth.
 

Belfy82

Active Member
Yes Shannon, did it for about 12 years from time I left school, late 70s.
Found it was affecting my hearing too much, nad even a sitch to painting didn't help get away from the noise. so bailed to oher industries.

Have all my tools still, do a bit now and then, just bought a little ebay 4" random sander with velcro pad and some disks, was going to try it out when I do a few little dings on the Ranger soon.

Now, though, will be fixing this in my brothers shop up in QLD in a few weeks, so will use his tools and booth.

Ahh.. good stuff Les, that post was just too detailed for some one that hasnt worked in the trade, dont blame you for getting out of though besides the noise you've got the dust then the dirt and as if that is not enough paint fumes on top of that!! can be a b@#$%*d of a job at times.:rolleyes:

Cheers mate,
Shannon
 
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