What do i do about all this rust along the roof/roofrack slide on my Maverick?

Sorry if this is in the wrong area of the forum. I'm not too sure how to properly navigate it.

I've started getting the paint off of all the rust affected areas along where the roof rack bolts onto. The strip of metal along the roof, it's completely rusted. All the way along. It's spread into the roof and quite deep also.

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That is probably the longest piece of rust there. It starts with one BIG oval on the left, then I'm pretty sure it continues to the other large oval. I can press on the metal of the roof slightly higher than the rust and can still feel movement in the metal, so I fear it's spread further than manageable.

Now this rust is the worst on this side, but this is only the back part of the car, further towards the front there is more rust that i haven't scraped back to see how bad it is yet.

Here are the rest of the photo's that i took of the rust that i have so far uncovered.

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With all the spots where rust has gone under metal, where i can't simply scrape it away and sand it, am i just supposed to use rust remover to the best of my ability then bog it up and prime/ paint it to make it appear road worthy?

Am i supposed to remove the thin parts of the metal and get at the rust there?

I just want to be able to get her road worthy to register it in my name. It's my first car, and first 4x4.

Thank you for any help you may be able to provide :)
 

BOUNCY HJ61

Active Member
Greetings Adrian,

That Needs Cutting Out, Treating The Metal Underneath, And Welding A New Outer Skin.

Cheers Michael

P.s. Any Panel Beater Mates?
 

joebog

New Member
what Bouncy said !!
thats sort of major damage for anybody that cant panelbeat/weld/do sheet metal work
once again, as bouncy said do ya have any panel beater mates??
if you dont have, see a decent panel beater!! this is one place you dont need a "quick fix"
It is also why I dont have roofracks!!

Joe
 

80lover96gxl

Moderator
Looks fairly server, what sort of truck is it,? do you need to haul a family around in it?
If its just you , chop the thing and turn it into a ute and build yourself a nice tray, that way theres only a small section of roof to repair.
That amount of rust will always be a problem and it'll keep coming back.

Just my 2c worth.:)

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
 

03hilux

Well-Known Member
That's normal for a Mav or gq patrol. As already said, if you can weld, fix it your self. Jus make sure you keep a wet towel in the car while your welding and have a friend ready you dab out any fires. Also peel your roof lining away from where your welding.
If you or a mate cant weld, then off to the panel beaters.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. What is it that they'll be doing exactly? Are they cutting out the rust then welding new metal over it to be level with the rest?

Is it still possible to do in the rear corner of the roof also?

This thing is starting to cost more than it's bloody worth. Do you guys have any idea of a price range for such a job? Considering its like that on both sides.

Joe, I think I agree with your idea about not having the damn roof rack.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
Adrian,

Yep, there's 2 ways to do it, one will cost 10x what the other will, and not guarantee the rust won't come back.
If you cut rust out, it will generally appear a bit further along within a year or three.
It's a big job to do it right, and along the roof there is not easy, with hood linings to come out.

The areas in your pics have certainly already been repaired before, and no doubt for the rust.

Are you going to put the roof rack back on ?
How long are you going to keep the car ?

These 2 questions will determine if a moderate fix is the go.
By that, I mean . . .

1. Grind up all the loose rust you can, it seems you've made a start on that already.
You'd need now to use a good 24g sanding disk and feather out the paint when sanding / roughing it up better.
Then use a wire wheel on it to clean out on loose stuff around the rust holes.

2. Knock the edges of the rust holes in, so there's an area to fill well, but not with bog (body filler) just yet.

3. You can use a rust convertor on the edges of the holes, but really it's not that imperative.

4. Get some K&H Karglass, it's fibreglass reinforced resin type polyester filler, and there's a few differnet ones out there, some have aluminium fibres.

5. Apply this to get to a fairly level surface to the surrounding good metal, it might take a couple of goes, using a filler body file in between to help get level.

6. When it's level, you should give it a skim with the 24g sanding disk to roughen up for body filler.

7. Use body filler now to get the level right to the surrounding surface.
Finish the body filler with a block and feather the paint edges with 80g to 100g dry, then blow it off and use putty filler, pro'ly 3 or 4 good coats.
An orbital sander with stikit disks is good to assist with this job.

Before going on to blocking that down, priming, the top coating and polishing etc, you should . . .

8. Use a good rust proofing in behind the area, something like Tectyl 506, maybe mix this 50 / 50 with fish oil too.
I'd buy a 4lt of it and use a proper rustproofing gun that has a long hose on it, with a special end to spray out the material in all directions.
It's important to do this well via the channels in the roof edge, and you'll have to release the hood lining at least at the sides to get in there.

I won't get into the processes for painting too much at this stage, but it involves the blocking, priming, rubbing down, and painting as mentioned above, but that is worth tackling seperately after the repairs are done.

Using this technique, I did many vehicles as an apprentice panel beater on numerous cars I did up . . . sold many, kept some for a few years, and no rust came back in the time I kept them.

Getting that really soaked in behind with rustproofing agent is the key, before any moisture is anywhere near the car (wet rubbing or weather).

Anyway, see how you go, maybe you do know someone local that's in the trade and can give you a hand.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
Thanks for the replies guys. What is it that they'll be doing exactly? Are they cutting out the rust then welding new metal over it to be level with the rest?

Is it still possible to do in the rear corner of the roof also?

This thing is starting to cost more than it's bloody worth. Do you guys have any idea of a price range for such a job? Considering its like that on both sides.

Joe, I think I agree with your idea about not having the damn roof rack.

Yes Adrian, generally you'd cut out an area out from the holes in a rectangle cut out with a little grinder cut off wheel, make up a patch of mild steel, tack and perimeter weld in with a MIG.
Usually the edges are knocked in lightly the ensure the new metal is flush or just under the surface level desired.
It's still very important to do the rustproofing as mentioned, but the hoodlining is already out for welding.
Yes, corner patches are just hammered up to fit.
After metal patches are in body filler is used to get the surface to original shape.
Price is like asking how long's a piece of string, plus some people load p rust repairs as it's not their fave job.
Shop around and get a few prices, some people use these as a filler job for the apprentice.
 

Grumpy

Moderator
A mate of mine is getting his roof replaced at a cost of, are you ready for it, $2000. includes a new front windscreen and rubber.
 
Thanks Les, I'll call around before attempting it myself, I'l leave that one as a last resort.
In your opinion, is it really worth doing all this on a Mav that cost $1200? Would it be worth getting it back up to perfect running order, or just scrapping or something?
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
Suppose only you can decide that one Adrian.
If you're good with your hands, it might be worth taking it on as a learning curve, haven't got much to lose.
It might last you 2 - 3 years, when you can either sell it, wreck it, or maybe buy another Mav / similar model patrol, and swap out any good stuff to make a better vehicle ?
Obviously you have to do this to get it rego'd, jeez, there'd be a lot of SA drivers in strife if they ever do that here !
 
Thanks for your help, and the detailed how-to. I'll have to look into it, I suppose for what i payed for it, spending a bit extra than i anticipated to get her road worthy wouldn't be too bad.
Thanks again!
 

Kermit

4x4 Earth Contributer
I'm a boilermaker/welder and that fiddly stuff best left to the panel beaters
They work with that all the time and have the right equipment and treatments on hand
As Les said the vehicle was not too exy and U may want to have a shot Urself but it'll look like U did it and not last too long
The Patrol / Mav is a hardy vehicle (Had One) and may be worth the effort and $ to get it done properly
Don't think I'd have a go myself but only U can decide what condition the rest of the vehicle is in and if it's worth persuing
Good luck with the resto on the roof, keep us informed
 

discomatt

Well-Known Member
I would think twice about paying big $$ to get it fixed, rust is cancer it will come back, to do that properly the whole roof skin would have to be removed then all the rust on the internal frame cut out or sand blasted off then resealed then a new roof welded on and the whole thing sealed and painted inside and out.

get rid of what you can with a wire wheel/ brush , grinder, screw driver what ever it takes, treat it with a quality rust converter, seal the inside with fish oil or lanotec and glass up the outer holes as suggersted earlyer.

before the roof falls off in a few years buy another rig with less rust and use this 1 for spares.

was a panel beater for 13 years and rust like that is a night mare and a full strip down a resto is needed to get rid of it, about a 30k job!!!! to do the whole car:eek:
 

camperman2010

New Member
Personaly, i would find the same model from a wreckers, cut out that section ( add on at least 3 inches to length and width ) and spot weld it in place, then take it to a smash repairer/body shop and get them to finish the welding ( would cost around ide say $150 ) then bring it back home, grind,sand,putty,sand,primer ect your self...probably cost you around $200 all up including the new panel.
 

shawn802

Banned
Trying first you changed the oil and filters, new fuel filter,its six new glow plugs and glow plug relay,it looks like you need to change the glow plug timer/controller as the circuit which is still cutting in and out before the glow plugs get hot.
 

prawns

Moderator
Trying first you changed the oil and filters, new fuel filter,its six new glow plugs and glow plug relay,it looks like you need to change the glow plug timer/controller as the circuit which is still cutting in and out before the glow plugs get hot.

stupid nonsensical posts - reporting you as a bot - mods can work you out (his other replys are pretty random as well and have nothing to do with the topic generally)
 

muc the truck

Well-Known Member
before you get quotes , remove the hood lining .

There is no point what so ever repairing once section only for another to blow out right beside it.

Once you get it cut out and painted use rust protection like lanolin in side the roof area then reinstall the hood lining .


if your a little handy you can weld in metal with a mig and us lead free lead wiping to tidy it al up . The advantage of using lead wipe is its easy to do at home with hand made tools made from Masonite to make contours . all the lead wipe you plane off can be remolded in a piece of angle iron so it can be cooled back into a rod again.
Engine oil on your tools stop it sticking to the tools , flux makes it bond to the metal
The other advantage is it will not crack like bog does.
leadwiping part 1 - Cruizin - YouTube
leadwiping part 2 - Cruizin - YouTube
leadwiping part 3 - Cruizin - YouTube

and if you have some rusty old 4x4 parts you want cleaned like mint steel straight out of a foundry use a mixture of malaises and water 10 water: 1 molasses. soak for 2 weeks , hose off , dry , wipe over with ppg prepsol and zinc prime immediately.

I am pretty sure you could buy a mig welder for the cost of 100% rust removal of oyur 4x4. NEW Rossi 155Amp MIG GAS Gasless Portable Welder Welding Machine MAG Inverter | eBay
and a oxy
torch is about the same money, bottle rent cost me 20 bucks a month for one.
 
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Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
stupid nonsensical posts - reporting you as a bot - mods can work you out (his other replys are pretty random as well and have nothing to do with the topic generally)

Only one has ever been remotely like topic, and even then it was gibberish.
Reported from another topic as well, so might all get deleted.
Just can't see the point, besides being disruptive, no links etc.
Could be mental illness . . .
 
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