Ute tub power cable.

Lovey

Lovey

Active Member
G’day all,
I’m finally going to get around to adding some power in the tub of my Colorado and I was hoping to bounce a few ideas off the knowledgeable folk here.

At this stage I don’t have a fridge, but am looking at adding one (connected to a portable battery box) down the track when the funds allow.

My initial thoughts were to run a 6 B&S twin cable through a VSR and 60A circuit breaker to an Anderson plug at the rear of the tub. This would be attached to the side of one of the drawer panels possibly on/in a junction box. Initially this plug would be just be only be to plug in an air compressor.

When the auxiliary battery box is fitted, I was going to make up an extension lead with some 6 B&S to charge the battery from this rear Anderson plug. I would need to unplug the second battery temporarily if I needed to use the compressor.

Does this seem like a feasible idea, or am I overlooking a better option?

Another question is that I’m looking at fitting a voltmeter near the Anderson plug. What is the best way to connect the 2 vastly different size cables?
Can I wrap the smaller cable around the large cable and terminate them into the Anderson plug lug? Should I use a terminal block/post to join the 2 and then have a small ‘tail’ going to the Anderson plug? Or is there another method?
Do I need another circuit breaker at the back of the tub?
Thanks for looking,
Steve.
 
Drewswb

Drewswb

Well-Known Member
Twin cable ?? ( think about it and youll get there ) as for different size cable's, if you have a need to and have an Anderson plug there just fill the Anderson terminal with solder and shove both in while its still melty. ( I always do Anderson plugs with solder and never crimp them just heat them up with a torch )
 
Petunia

Petunia

Well-Known Member
Lovey said:
I would need to unplug the second battery temporarily if I needed to use the compressor.

Does this seem like a feasible idea, or am I overlooking a better option?
Click to expand...

This does seem a feasible idea, however, as the eventual aim of the game is expansion? May I suggest some thought on where this future expansion will be located and installation of a second Anderson plug in line to charge the battery when installed. This will allow the compressor to run from both batteries.

Chances are you will be buying multiple Anderson plugs? to complete the eventual set up .... individually these can be expensive, or a bargain in bulk 10 lots, genuine Anderson brand, or WingWong? pick a brand and try to stay with it? not all Anderson ''Style'' are created equal.

Lovey said:
What is the best way to connect the 2 vastly different size cables?
Can I wrap the smaller cable around the large cable and terminate them into the Anderson plug lug? Should I use a terminal block/post to join the 2 and then have a small ‘tail’ going to the Anderson plug? Or is there another method?
Click to expand...

There are many way to skin a cat? There is no problem that I can see with this, if both cables fit into the lug, fine, if they dont fit inside the lug, then other methods of termination should be considered.

Soldered or crimped? or crimped and soldered? meeeeeooooowwwwww the sounds of skinning a cat !!
one point is if crimped do not warp the lug, this may lead to frustration as why wont it go in? why does it pop out? crimping can lead to warping the lug which needs to see-saw ever so slightly on connection, if bent the wrong way this seesaw action wont happen as the lug fouls the plastic case.

Problems occur with to much insulation in the back of the plug, as well, this results in a similar fouling of the see-saw action on connection. This you should be aware of by terminating 2 wires to the one plug.

Lovey said:
Do I need another circuit breaker at the back of the tub?
Click to expand...
Yes, when the second battery is installed, one as close as practical to that battery.

12volt is magic. :cool:
 
Drewswb

Drewswb

Well-Known Member
I just find solder works gooderer and when you make a meal of it you can get out of it without buying a new plug. Be careful with coloured (Happy lucky shopper) ones they only fit the same colour. It looked so pretty :cool:
 
Lovey

Lovey

Active Member
Thanks @Drewswb , I might have used the wrong terminology for the cable in my OP, I've corrected that in my reply.
Thanks @Petunia , I did think that a junction box at the front of the tub, with a branch off to the rear might be a good idea, but the bonus of having the second battery for the compressor was something that I'd overlooked. Re the anderson plugs, I've gone with all genuine. A bit more money but I think a better quality product.
Soldering vs crimping, geez there's some heated debate on that topic on various forums that I've read. The general consensus that I could find is that there is none, apart from bad joints can be made with either method. I have a hydraulic crimper with the hex shaped dies, so hopefully that should take care of the lugs. I've bought a shed load of lugs too, so I can have a practice run.
12V is black magic stuff. I'm a sparky by trade and car wiring baffles me sometimes :oops:.
Thanks for your replies so far, they're greatly appreciated.
 
Petunia

Petunia

Well-Known Member
Drewswb said:
I just find solder works gooderer and when you make a meal of it you can get out of it without buying a new plug. Be careful with coloured (Happy lucky shopper) ones they only fit the same colour. It looked so pretty :cool:
Click to expand...

I have no problems with solder [soddah, in US terms shits me off] and yes I do agree you get to do it over again.

Ah the red, green, blue, yellow ..... aren't they just purdier 'an a twenny dollah ???? Mr Taggart. .....red can be ok if you wish to denote your solar in feed? I've looked at them, and reasoned a bit of creative filing/grinding of the centre area would allow cross pollination, so to speak.:cool:
 
Albynsw

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
I have always soldered my Anderson plugs , itbis rasy to do and you get a good connection
No problem with looping back out for a piggyback plug connection either
If you are not comfortable with doing your own you can buy then off eBay prewired
 
Petunia

Petunia

Well-Known Member
Lovey said:
Soldering vs crimping, geez there's some heated debate on that topic on various forums that I've read. The general consensus that I could find is that there is none, apart from bad joints can be made with either method. I have a hydraulic crimper with the hex shaped dies, so hopefully that should take care of the lugs. I've bought a shed load of lugs too, so I can have a practice run.
12V is black magic stuff. I'm a sparky by trade and car wiring baffles me sometimes
Click to expand...

You are not wrong there, Re: heated debate, people need get over the fact [see cat skinning techniques] both can be acceptable, but cars are factory crimped? well duh? how long would it take to soddah all them joints? get over it, both can fail, or be done well.

Hydraulic, that will certainly take care of it, damn good investment them things if you plan on doing multiple terminations, and they even do other things until they go bang.:cool:
 
Lovey

Lovey

Active Member
Petunia said:
I have no problems with solder [soddah, in US terms shits me off] and yes I do agree you get to do it over again.

Ah the red, green, blue, yellow ..... aren't they just purdier 'an a twenny dollah ???? Mr Taggart. .....red can be ok if you wish to denote your solar in feed? I've looked at them, and reasoned a bit of creative filing/grinding of the centre area would allow cross pollination, so to speak.:cool:
Click to expand...
Aahh, I've found a kindred spirit who hates the word 'soddah' as well. I cringe every time I watch an American youtuve vid and they say it.
I've stuck with the stock standard grey andersons, boring I know ;).
 
Drewswb

Drewswb

Well-Known Member
IMG_20191030_181226.jpg
 
D

dabbler

Active Member
Everything is at the front of my tub. I run fused twin core 6b&s from cranking to a dcdc unit, then battery bank. From battery bank I go to an isolation switch then onto fuse box with distribution at smaller gauge from there.

I run twin core or two wires everywhere and never rely on chassis negative. I also crimp all cables not supported by some sort of circuit board or holding bracket.

All up, I've probably spent as much on fusing and cabling for distribution as anything but it makes expansion much easier and simpler.

Most times, I have a fridge, invertor, assorted lights, chargers, aux outlets, fans, compressor and diesel pump all ready to run with a flip of a switch and no need to unplug and re-plug.

I use colour coded Anderson so other people don't fluff around. Red for alternator feed, yellow for unregulated solar feeds, blue for pumps, grey for general. Buy enough and they're cheap,

Whatever you decide, just make sure you carry a means to recrimp age/or resolder on the road.
 
Petunia

Petunia

Well-Known Member
Lovey said:
Any particular reason?
Click to expand...

The closest possible position to the source of all the angry pixies that try to escape in a fault situation. A rat chews the cable it shorts? if the fuse or breaker is further from the battery than the rat chewed short, the short still has angry pixies escaping while the breaker does bupkiss.:cool:
 
Drewswb

Drewswb

Well-Known Member
Petunia said:
The closest possible position to the source of all the angry pixies that try to escape in a fault situation. A rat chews the cable it shorts? if the fuse or breaker is further from the battery than the rat chewed short, the short still has angry pixies escaping while the breaker does bupkiss.:cool:
Click to expand...
its the smoke getting out ,their attracted too the pixys live under the seats thats where all the 5c pieces come from
 
Lovey

Lovey

Active Member
Aahh, makes perfect sense. Thanks again for your help @Drewswb , @Petunia , @Albynsw and @dabbler , I really appreciate it.
Just another question if I may please? I initially put that I was going to use a 60A breaker in the engine bay, however now I'm not so sure.
Would a 50A at each of the above locations be a better size, or some other combination?
 
peterfermtech

peterfermtech

Well-Known Member
I follow fuse colours as a guide for anderson plugs.
Std Grey plug for 50 Amp fused
Blue plug for 15 Amp fused (fridge)
Yellow plug for 20 Amp fused
Green plug for 30 Amp fused
120 Amp plug for running inverter
Red used for solar feed as I don't need 10 amp P.S.
regards
 
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