UHF Aerial Plug ?

phs

Well-Known Member
hey guys, need a little bit of guidence, how do i join the aerial cable to the aerial plug ?

iv got the cable where i need it and i have the plug that came with the kit the cable has a few layers, wire then white stuff then wire ?

and iv got a plug that has a female end for the wire and a Female threaded end for the uhf radio.

now i need to find out a suitable method for joining the two keeping in mind there will be alot of off road use .

thanks in advance

phil
 

Offrdn60

Member
This is just the way i do it.
So IMO

Make sure the centre wire (thick 1) Doesn't touch the outter wires (all the thinner wires)

You need wire strippers, solidering iron, solider.

1. Strip back about 40mm of the outter cover. (You now should see the thin wires)

2. Peel back the thin wires (Like peeling a bannana) (So the thin wires should be peeled back around the black coating)

You should now have 40mm of thick wire with a coating around it.

3. Cut off about 20mm (half) of the inner coating.

4. Push the cable into the plug untill the core wire sticks out throu the plug.

5. Cut off any access core wire (thick wire) and then neatley soilder the tip. (soilder can't prodrude past the tip of the plug.

*Most important thing is not to let the two wires touch.
*You might have to adjust your measurements to suit the plug length.
 

phs

Well-Known Member
This is just the way i do it.
So IMO

Make sure the centre wire (thick 1) Doesn't touch the outter wires (all the thinner wires)

You need wire strippers, solidering iron, solider.

1. Strip back about 40mm of the outter cover. (You now should see the thin wires)

2. Peel back the thin wires (Like peeling a bannana) (So the thin wires should be peeled back around the black coating)

You should now have 40mm of thick wire with a coating around it.

3. Cut off about 20mm (half) of the inner coating.

4. Push the cable into the plug untill the core wire sticks out throu the plug.

5. Cut off any access core wire (thick wire) and then neatley soilder the tip. (soilder can't prodrude past the tip of the plug.

*Most important thing is not to let the two wires touch.
*You might have to adjust your measurements to suit the plug length.


ok sound good. just one more thing after you cut the inner core back and soilder the tip. what do you do with the thin outta wire thats still peeled back like a banana ?
 

max

New Member
Hi Phil,
I hope this helps.

Max
 

Attachments

  • uhf.jpg
    uhf.jpg
    288.5 KB · Views: 582

grit

Member
Not sure if this issue has been resolved -
if not...
the outer wires should be clamped by the outer ring (female) as it is screwed tightly back onto the plug. I usually open the braiding at one point only, twist it to create one fat wire of many threads & wind it around the insulator ensuring no freys will protrude. Then simply clamp the outer ring onto the male screw-thread of the plug.
 

Sharky

New Member
Offrdn60 was pretty spot on but I trim about 20mm of the out woven wire off leaving 20mm exposed as a connection to the plug as u screw it onto the cable. 1st screw it on, then if all goes well solder the core wire to the tip of the plug by heating the pulg & core wire together with the soldering iron, not just the solder. Solder will take to a hot surface better than a cold one. Remember, good contacts will make for good reception.
 

grit

Member
My original trade was 'Electrical Fitter Mechanic' - The biggest problem with any soldered connection is what is called a 'dry joint', in essence its a soldered connection that looks good but has a poor electrical connection. The solution is to remove the clear enamel from the copper wire so that not just the exposed tip is making the connection. This can be even more prevalent when the connection is subject to physical force & can be done by simply scraping it with a sharp edge or a light sanding. Yes even the centre wire of coaxial cable is enamel coated.
 
Last edited:

Tats

New Member
More Instal Problems for the Experts

That sounds like good solid info . . . but . . . how do I get the coaxial through the firewall and into the cabin in the first place? So far I've not been able to find a place where there is a plug or a wiring harness going through the firewall except where the wiring for the windscreen wipers emerges in the enclosed valled where they reside. I've thought about drilling a hole, but if I do, then the hole will need a rubber collar or something to a) stop the coax from rubbing on the sharp edge, and b) to waterproof it so that it doesn't leak. Any ideas?

Tats:cool:
 

Old55

New Member
Carefully drill a hole through one of the rubber plugs next to where the main loom goes through the firewall, push your wire through the hole and use silicone to seal any gaps.
 

Tats

New Member
M*****l of a Thing

Thanks Guys, today I once again climbed in and under the b****y frustrating thing, looked under the dash with a torch, and still can't see where the wiring harness comes through. Hey! I know it must be there somewhere. I'm booking it in for the 20,000 klm service so I think I'll just chuck the aerial and coaxial in the car and get the tech at the dealership to do it for me. It might cost a couple of bob, but . . . at least it'll get done.:eek::eek::eek: Hey I'm not usually a quitter, but frustration is taking its toll.:(

Tats:cool:
 

Tats

New Member
How can a bloke vent his frustration with this damn uhf aerial issue? Well I took the Jeep in for its service today, and when booking in asked the service manager if he could get one of the techs to thread the coaxial from the aerial through to the cabin for me. No worry was his reply I'll talk to the techs about it. When I returned 3-1/2 hours later to pick the truck up there was some mumbo jumbo about the techs couldn't do it . . . Eh! You need to drill the firewall, and use a grommet and sealastick so it doesn't leak and . . . our blokes can't do it . . . don't try it yourself in case you damage something . . . better go to a auto electrician to get it done. Make sure it's not too low down in case it leaks. Sorry! So it looks like I'm right back at square one. The decision is that I will find a way through the absolute myiad of "stuff" that's attached to the firewall, and I will drill my 1/4" hole, and thread the cable thru', I've gone and bought the gold-plated grommets ($3.30 for 3 quarter inch ones) from Super Cheap (one wonders how much they'd be from the no-so-cheap mob!!!), and Thursday the assault begins. I'll gird my loins and hoe in. Sorry I can't do it tomorrow I'm booked in for golf. This is beginning to become as big a production as Millsy's drive shaft!!!:eek: (Sorry Millsy!)

Tats:cool:
 

4X4

Moderator
Breathe Tat's, breathe. It will be worth it in the end. Just take your time. Good Luck!
 

Tats

New Member
Thanks 4x4, I don't feel comfortable being out of control . . . and that includes doing something the techs feel uneasy about . . . but I'm not a quitter! Has anyone got an old Ventolaire pump and a barrel of Ventolin ampoules I can borrow for a few days? (Just kiddin').:D:D:D

Tats:cool:
 

Sharky

New Member
I usually end up drilling a new hole in the firewall, as stretching existing loom gromets usually causes them to crack or leaves a gap for water to come in. 1st, buy a rubber grommet (or a packet, they're cheap) with a hole the size of the coax cable. Then when u find a suitable place, ie anywhere a drill will fit that is also accessable from the cab, drill a hole just big enuf to squeez the gromet into.

If u r unsure, take it to your local stereo shop. If they want too much $$ they should at least show you a good place to poke it thru.

You will likely have to drill thru some sound deadening & carpet underlay which can be tricky when the drill bit grabs onto them.
 

grit

Member
I don't envy you one bit tats, nobody likes drilling that FIRST hole!

I believe that silicone is a must even if using existing loom holes (yes, I know you have none 'existing') as the seal can often break while forcing it through.

... preferrably non-acedic (or neutral cure) silicone.
 

Tats

New Member
The Final Solution

Thanks guys for all of your input. Well, yes Grits, drilling that first hole in a vehicle that has only just turned over 20k is very disconcerting. However (drum role please), it is accomplished! I've spent most of today in, out and under the car. Believe me when I say that I could not find a spot on the firewall to drill. It appears that every inch has something attached to it, if not on the outside, then on the inside. Most of the internal stuff is electronically operated - for example the accelerator! The wiring harness is enclosed in some type of tubular square box that takes up a lot of room, and then makes it's way into the cabin via an enclosed compartment(?). Finally a decision was made. Around the steering mechanism where it enters the cabin is a double layered rubber grommet that is a good 50mm all round larger than the small diameter shaft that helps turn the wheels. With the aid of a very long upholstery needle I just happen to have, I was able to thread the coaxial through it near the outer edge with minimal damage to the rubber (I still have to get some selastic to seal it properly). This was achieved at the expense of an 11 cm x 4 cm strip of, now, missing skin and a cup and a half of blood that is firmly attached to the radiator overflow tank that resides at the rear of the motor - yes, against firewall. But, it is in and working well, although, Grit, I did stress about drilling four holes in the centre console to hold the radio and the microphone, but I did it. And for a short time I even ignored the foul language of some distant broadcaster whilst I enjoyed my handiwork. :D:D:D Incidently I have now received some info that the KJ Cherokee usually has the uhf aerial attached above the right-hand rear brake light, and sticks 5 or 6 cm out from the body. The coaxial is threaded through the luggage area into the cabin, and the power comes from the 12 volt outlet on the wall of the luggage area. I'm not so sure about bits of sharpe metal sticking out from the body, though, we don't want to give the pedestrian council (whoever the hell they are???) anything else to whinge about.

Tats:cool:
 

Pure Yobbo

Moderator
What an Adventure. Well at least you can sit back with a beer and wonder - why was I so stressed about it. :rolleyes:


Cheers
 
Top