Throttle controller - ebay cheapie review

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
#21
All these things can do is give more throttle sooner in the accelerator pedal range.

If i can push the pedal quicker than you, i can still beat you.

The faster the pedal is pushed, the more equal 0-100km/h times will be. Lets say i can push the pedal to the floor in 0.1 seconds or less. With a throttle rejigger i might cut it down to 0.06 seconds or less. So the difference in 0-100km/h times is 0.04 seconds or less (for me with my foot, based on those hunch times).

Training your ankle to work faster is a cheaper, simpler, more reliable, more flexible solution.
If that was so, stomping your foot with and without a throttle controller would give the same result on a dyno wouldn’t it?

I assume by your statement you have used one ?
 

denmonkey

Well-Known Member
#22
All these things can do is give more throttle sooner in the accelerator pedal range.

If i can push the pedal quicker than you, i can still beat you.

The faster the pedal is pushed, the more equal 0-100km/h times will be. Lets say i can push the pedal to the floor in 0.1 seconds or less. With a throttle rejigger i might cut it down to 0.06 seconds or less. So the difference in 0-100km/h times is 0.04 seconds or less (for me with my foot, based on those hunch times).

Training your ankle to work faster is a cheaper, simpler, more reliable, more flexible solution.

Sorry Rhett, but no.
If you suss out the review I did, I put the pedal to the floor from a standing start in every test case with and without the controller in place.
I did this specifically to remove that variant from the tests to prove that point exactly. I.e take the human error out (as much as I could)
I.e you can't go any quicker or further with the pedal then to the floor.
There was a 3.5 second difference between the best run with it and without it connected.
So I doubt there could be a 3.5 second difference in how quick you could do it versus someone else.
This is why I chose to do it that way because I've read many many similar comments to yours that say just push the pedal harder or faster but you just can't get the same results as with the controller.
As per my tests and Alby's comment re the Dyno above, there are measurable differences with and without.
I might even go as far as saying it's the cheapest way to get such a marked improvement.

With the review, I wanted to do more that just offer a subjective opinion, so I used the best options I had at hand to record actual data.
Granted it ain't perfect but the proof is in the pudding.

Like Alby, I'm not trying to sell anyone on them, nor take the mickey out of anyone for their opinion, but I can honestly say, I don't get why those who haven't tried them are so committed to their position that they can't possibly work, even presented with 'proof'.
I know they don't know me personally but is it that they don't believe what I'm presenting or is there something else going on that I'm missing here ?

For those who's opinion is that they DON'T work, out of curiosity did you watch the attached video ?

Thanks to everyone for their comments thus far.
 

Jackolux

Active Member
#23
Wants all this bull about going faster with a throttle control , I had a iDrive on my Dmax ,
I like everyone else thought WOW at first but after a lot of testing, timed runs with stop watch and a ScanGauge 2
The SC2 can be set to record acceleration and time as soon as the vehicle moves that can be revived later .
There was no difference in runs with it on or off .
I used it with the Dmax , unloaded , loaded , towing our Tvan , 4wheelin in the Highcountry.
I soon decided that it was really gimmick and not needed , so I turned it off and ever now and then I would turn it on gain just because it was still there , all that did was confirm that it just wasn't needed .
I had it in the Dmax for over 90k , I no longer have the Dmax but I still have the iDrive , anyone want it cheap , coz geez there a really good thing
 

denmonkey

Well-Known Member
#24
thanks for that Jack.
good to hear balanced feedback from your tests.
If it was fit for my Paj, I would have taken it off your hands, if nothing else to run the same tests but with a different model.
Did the Max have any other mods like a remap or the like prior to the idrive being fitted ?
 

Jackolux

Active Member
#25
thanks for that Jack.
good to hear balanced feedback from your tests.
If it was fit for my Paj, I would have taken it off your hands, if nothing else to run the same tests but with a different model.
Did the Max have any other mods like a remap or the like prior to the idrive being fitted ?
No Dmax was completely stock , no exhaust nothing .
If ppl want to look back on this forum , probably a couple of years ago now , they will see where I started a thread saying how great these iDrives are , others told me I had been conned , I argued that they were all wrong , that's when I set out to prove em wrong , after extensive testing, I had to come back and admit yet they were right .
Also had a Mate fit one to his Triton , it's been removed.
 

Rhett HS

Well-Known Member
#26
I just watched the video. The runs seemed pretty much the same seat of the pants. I didnt time them, that might be an option. If the transmission has any adaptability it would affect runs.

Is there a suggestion that what it connects into gives it the ability to change some parameter(s) like a chip? Give 110% throttle?

So runs were done that showed a 7 sec difference but werent on the video?

Either it somehow does more than mash the throttle quicker, or someone desperately wants to believe in ghosts.
 

denmonkey

Well-Known Member
#27
haha, I do go on ghost hunts if that counts for anything.
yeah the 7 seconds came from the timer I used in adobe. I didnt notice but someone mentioned that it was fast by a factor of 2. I've since gone back and sorted the figures and made some notes on it to advise as such. So half that gives the 3.5 seconds difference.
Yeah, I have to wonder if it only effects throttle input or is manipulating other inputs somehow. I wish i could tell you mate, but best i can offer is the stuff I got on camera.
I'm half considering doing a multiple run session to confirm the findings but that would require some significant time to be applied to it.
It's going to bug me NOT to do it though.
 

CaptainBanana

Well-Known Member
#28
These runs can be flawed somewhat by road incline, head or tail wind, heat soak and so much more. To put it into perspective official timing grounds/drag strip's have only about 2% longitudinal gradient to avoid differences.

Moderns cars often have accidental throttle mitigation which will actually substantially or completely remove throttle opening after aggressive throttle input to avoid launching your car into a shop window whilst parked for example, this means slamming the pedal to WOT is not necessarily doing anything for a couple seconds.

Testing these controllers in this manner is inconclusive as you're not accounting for so many variables, the people who have bought and used these in the real world have come to the conclusion it's an initial placebo effect too many times to ignore. When combined with the way the controllers work and very very limited control they have which is essentially achieving more throttle opening at lower throttle position they make you feel more power is underfoot. I don't see any reason to doubt those owners who are selling them off.
 
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Jackolux

Active Member
#30
All I can say after having a iDrive and trying it in all different terrains over many K's and trying all the different settings ,
is my Dmax drivability ( whatever that is anyway ) was just fine std .
My new Patrol has a throttle control std , it has different modes , on road , rock , sand and snow , those mode can be used on any terrain , it's just the same as adjusting a iDrive ,
My bike a FJR1300 Yamaha also has one std but only 2 settings , Touring and Sport . I always just use Sport because twisting the wrist is different to pushing a peddle , in T mode I really need to take a second grab of the twist grip if I want full throttle , that caught me out a couple of times when overtaking .
 

denmonkey

Well-Known Member
#31
CB, I'm not sure how you are suggesting they can be tested then?
You commented to Alby that Dynos dont represent the real world and are there for useless and are now saying that we can't use real world tests because of the variables.
Can't have your cake and eat it too mate. You're gonna have to pick one :D and when you do, the other one will still be relevant.

Agreed there are some who have 'sold them off' but I think you will still find they are the exception and not the rule

Like Toddy said above, it's more about how they make the car feel and drive than an overall speed increase.


Jacko, do you reckon the patrol is also altering gear changes and the like as part of those settings ?
 

Jackolux

Active Member
#32
Jacko, do you reckon the patrol is also altering gear changes and the like as part of those settings ?
I'm going to say no , I don't think so but I haven't really played with the different settings much yet ,
I think like when I had the iDrive in the Dmax , it feels like it's altering the auto box but thats only because you are applying more or less throttle depending where you have it set .
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
#33
CB, I'm not sure how you are suggesting they can be tested then?
You commented to Alby that Dynos dont represent the real world and are there for useless and are now saying that we can't use real world tests because of the variables.
Can't have your cake and eat it too mate. You're gonna have to pick one :D and when you do, the other one will still be relevant.

Agreed there are some who have 'sold them off' but I think you will still find they are the exception and not the rule

Like Toddy said above, it's more about how they make the car feel and drive than an overall speed increase.
I was going to say the same but couldn’t be bothered
Apparently Dyno testing and real world testing don’t count but heresay on s forum and an untried opinion is gospel :rolleyes:

Jackolux has used one and doesn’t like it and I respect his decision and he is entitled to it but he is in the minority of users
The other aspect is we are talking about lots of different brand products and they are being used on makes of vehicles so the results and experience will vary
When you get a remap or a chip one of the functions in doing so it to amplify the fly by wire signal as these products do

Quote from site
“Unichip Q4 also has built in Throttle Control/Booster function, a must for any modern drive by wire vehicle! With the throttle control function, Unichip Q4 can drastically lessen and almost eliminate the delay that all modern cars suffer from. ”
 

Aza013

Well-Known Member
#34
I have not used any of these things but I know that the challenger has a small delay when you hit the right foot (The Tritons are the same).
A mate added a device in his Triton ( 3 - 5 different stage selection ) and found that it did change the delay when dropping the right foot.
He found it good in different off road conditions ( rocky climbs to sand/mud ).
He never talked about 0-60 or 0-100....... so I can’t say about that. But knowing from my other car on the track any delay in throttled response would as anyone would know will add time in getting to a set speed. ( yes I know 4x4’s are not race cars lol but a delay is still a delay in any vehicle. )
So in the drive by wire cars that have that delay it might adjust/remove the delay and help. ( as said I have not used one so I’m going off a mate ). I should add the delay can be a one second delay at times, and in a manual that could be a chance for the loss of traction ( rollback ) in some conditions.
I would be interested in testing one myself later on down the track.
 

Jackolux

Active Member
#35
Like I said above my first reaction was " WOW " this thing really works , now if I hadn't taken the time to actually test it and find out what it was really doing , then turning it off and realising , I don't really need it after all .
I would still be driving around thinking it's great and all the naysayers are full of it .
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
#36
Just to be clear
For me it has never been about performance and didn’t even know or care it would be noticeable on a dyno and only found that out by accident
I just found the vehicle both my Hilux and my Cruiser more drivable with it fitted
It minimises the flat/lag spot you feel on acceleration, some may or may not like the new peddle feel
 

Rhett HS

Well-Known Member
#37
Seemingly we need to find out if they can do more than just change the throttle curve. All i have ever come across so far refers to that.

Obviously if there is any kind of adaptability in an auto gearbox then these jiggers will make it think you want max attack and will give you higher revs before changing gears etc. Same as if you trained your ankle to work faster.

I just think a lot of guys are going from cable accelerators which are often more aggressive to electronic throttles which give better control, and can need a faster foot to get max attack.

I know thats exactly what it was like for me when i got my amarok. It has a long travel accelerator pedal and feels slow at first. I trained my foot to work faster and now i have the best of all worlds.

Older cars could be jerky and feel like you are being unkind to it if you slammed it, whereas i can slam my current ride's electronic throttle and its all sweet.
 

Aza013

Well-Known Member
#40
That would be good thanks.
But at this point I personally would only notice any difference on the black top, as I have not spent enough time off road to get a true feel of if it is traction or just throttle response.
As a lot of us know you really need to know the feel of your vehicle to understand what it’s doing. At this point off road I’m just a newbie getting to know the true feel of the challenge.
 
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