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Throttle controller - ebay cheapie review

Discussion in 'General 4x4 Discussion' started by denmonkey, Nov 19, 2018.

  1. denmonkey

    denmonkey Well-Known Member

    Hi yawl,

    I picked up a cheap throttle controller off ebay ~$100 and have seem them as low as around 80.
    It's the Eittar 9S model

    A mate has both the idrive and the cheaper original kings and speaks highly off them both .
    He has said the idrive has more options but if you just want the increase in throttle sensitivity they both do a similar job.

    With that info in hand I figured I'd roll the dice on a one similarly priced to the kings, since they didn't have them available since the first launch and feedback seemed to be good.
    They have released another unit after I got this one but it seems to need a phone connection to control and I didn't like that.
    I'd prefer one with a controller on dash .
    This one is tiny.
    here it is compared to a AA battery


    Connection is made like all others, via an inline plug that connects between the throttle and the original cable.
    This is what it looks like out of the box and what is included. Not much, but all you need I guess.


    Connection is a piece of cake and installation even easier.
    Since I lent it to a friend to test in his triton, I got used to reaching up and connecting/disconnecting without the need to physically see what i was going. All by feel.
    Although, I'm a bit nifty on unclasping bras (skill for life) in the dark too....just sayin.

    This image is in the Pajero NT and you can see how it connects
    The circles are the 2 connectors.
    The top one goes to the original cable and the 2nd is fitted into the original socket.
    The arrow points down to the accelerator peddle for reference.


    It couldn't be easier.

    When you install it and take it for its first run, you notice immediately how much more responsive the vehicle is to throttle inputs.
    No, it does not remove turbo lag but I can tell you it certainly does improve things when the boost comes up.
    With the Paj, I've nearly got caught out a few times rolling up to a round about and trying to make a small gap.
    Hitting the loud pedal expecting to shoot the hole but ending up watching the car getting closer and not being able to do anything about it until it spooled up.
    It wasn't so much of an issue with the controller fitted but still warranted caution.

    There mostly seems to be 2 schools of thought on these, with a few exceptions.
    Those who have tried them and speak positively of them and those who have not and will share their opinion as to WHY they can't work.
    Now whilst I have tried one, I'm not entirely wrapped but that is because of THIS specific unit.
    Yet overall, I must say I am a convert to the whole scenario and will be purchasing another ....maybe the idrive.

    The reason this unit was not suitable (received an ebay refund because of it) is because at low speeds and exaggerated in Low range, the thing lurches like a bastard.
    I've tried everything to control the input to the pedal but nothing makes any difference. My friend who tested it on his triton reported the same issue.
    It all but becomes dangerous navigating car parks where slow speeds are required. It's also a bit embarrassing looking like a learner bunny hopping along in public.
    Granted when you get a bit of speed up it makes the drive more enjoyable but for my use, I can't forfeit that control when off road for a bit of extra acceleration at speed.

    Now to how I tested it.
    This is not scientific but it was the best I could do with what I had available.

    To get the data, I used my OBD2 reader and the torque app and did a few runs 0-60kmh
    Frankly I was a little surprised at the results.
    Granted, I could have done multiple passes but getting the footage took its own time and editing it down was over 3-4 hours. So it's already a fair investment in time but I hope it's sufficient to give you an idea of what they're like.

    The test involved starting at the same spot and testing in settings 1, 5, 9 and no controller.
    There are 9 settings all up, with level 1 the lowest setting but still increasing sensitivity. This was the setting I used most of the time as anything higher was just to exaggerated on the bunny hop scenario.
    I was hoping to have a setting to lower sensitivity like the idrive for off road but this one does not do that. It's all up and up.

    For those who will say, just push the throttle harder or further, all tests involved putting the throttle FLAT to the floor.
    So no, it couldn't go any further, so in theory it removes that item for debate.

    Here are the settings I used in the toque app .
    I detailed the max settings and time below each run.
    from left to right they are 1,5,9 and no controller.
    Interestingly SP1 was quickest followed by SP5 and SP9 consecutively with no controller coming in last for this test.
    Boost with the controller reached up to 32PSI with no controller staying at 14.7.
    So this could explain the harder acceleration.
    The speed difference between the quickest controller run and no controller was 3.5 seconds.
    I don't think there is any argument that can be made here to say they don't do anything and it's all in your head.

    I hope this helps any one considering the purchase and also help you not to fall for this model I went with.

    I fully expect some vigorous discussion over this one, but keeping it respectful would be nice

    As always, here's the video of the tests and an example of the issues I experienced with it.

    with corrected data

    cheers Brett
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2018
    megamung and red hilux like this.
  2. red hilux

    red hilux Well-Known Member

    32 psi

    Wouldn’t the ECU go into overboost and shut down?

    That like just over double the psi while running with no throttle controller
  3. denmonkey

    denmonkey Well-Known Member

    Not sure what level is required to do that but I haven't experienced any shut downs.
    I'm actually wondering if that figure is correct since it seems so high but the Paj does seem to go harder when on boost.
    does it feel 2 times as much.
    Doubling the figure wouldn't be equal to doubling the power, so hard to say.
    Perhaps that is part of its electronic manipulation to make the ECU think other inputs are higher than they are in real life.
    Still if that is the case, I guess the ECU would respond the same in either case, since it would see the same figure either way
  4. CaptainBanana

    CaptainBanana Well-Known Member

    Lots of guys on the modified triton group buy the I-drives and immediately sell them openly stating they don't work and it's a placebo at first. I have never used anything in interceptor signal form as it doesn't account for a broad spectrum of parameters so I've also not bothered spending/wasting money on these either.

    As for boost the mq triton makes about 23psi all day long and makes 10-11 at cruise at 100kph .. Modern crd engines use high boost for the big Tourque numbers and low fuel numbers required. My triton is significantly better on fuel around the suburbs at low speed /rpm/boost than it is at highway speed which is the opposite of modern petrol engines.

    Good on you for having a go with this but for me it's still a no.
    denmonkey likes this.
  5. Albynsw

    Albynsw Well-Known Member

    Well I am in the other camp and say they do work
    My dyno tuner says the same so there is factual evidence
    Keep in mind a lot of car manufacturers use exactly this method for their power and economy modes. I know the more expensive cars remap the power and gearing with their buttons but lots are just a throttle controller with a button on the dash
    Also this software is part of chips and remapping so it is not snake oil
    denmonkey likes this.
  6. CaptainBanana

    CaptainBanana Well-Known Member

    Forget dynos...hows it in the road? How about off road? Towing? Low speed? My cars a slow shit heap and this won't make it a McLaren but I'd be open to borrow a controller from a manufacturer in the interest of being proven wrong... I won't part with my cash at this time.

    Remaps are a different kettle of fish .. Many parameters are adjusted and not just intercepted.
  7. denmonkey

    denmonkey Well-Known Member

    All good CB,I'm not trying to sell you one :DJust wanted to put it out there.
    As in DON'T buy this specific one.

    Doing these reviews lets me do 2 things I enjoy very much. Testing stuff out for myself in the real world versus just reading about it and making vids for youtube.
    Being able to combine them keeps me busy and out of trouble ...most of the time.
    At the end of the day, mine is still just an opinion in a sea of others opinions but I do try and qualify it by sharing how I came to my opinion and share my experience in getting there.

    Did the guys on the triton forums state why they don't think they work or what their expectations were before they tried it ?
    I'm curious as to how their experience was different to mine. Most I've heard speak positively of them making a difference, even if they don't keep them installed.
    For me if the lurching thing wasn't an issue, it would still be in.
    What series is your triton? My mate tried it in his MN(I think) and the connector was the same.
    If it will fit and you're happy to pay the postage to send it back, I'll pay the postage to you to test it out if you like.

    Alby, I think you're right. I didn't consider the 'factory' options but they probably do the same thing.
    Even forgoing the boost figures etc, the 7 second difference for me was enough of a difference to say it's doing something.
    This was the best way I figured I could get that across with out just being subjective about the whole thing.
    How exactly though, I can't say.

    cheers Brett
    silkwood and dno67 like this.
  8. Albynsw

    Albynsw Well-Known Member

    Forget dynos? The dyno proves it works, no need for placebo effect.
    They recommend you turn them off when in low range as they make the peddle too twitchy, I left mine on with my auto Hilux and found it fine but my mate with the same vehicle in manual reffed it off. I sold it with the car as it was a vehicle specific model and bought a different one when I got my cruiser. Which has adjustable settings.
    When I had the cruiser remapped recently he asked me if I wanted the tune done with or without the controller
    I opted to have it done without it as a precaution that if I had any isswith the new tune it was not complicated but another device in the system .
    I haven’t plugged it back in as I am happy with how it is now.
    denmonkey likes this.
  9. denmonkey

    denmonkey Well-Known Member

    a mate had his 200 remapped and still keeps his idrive in. wanker :D
    red hilux likes this.
  10. Ben Sanderson

    Ben Sanderson New Member

    I have fitted an idrive to my amarok and I love it. It has no extra power but it definitely gets rid of the lag when I take off and it also changes gears in a more regular fashion. When towing, it responds heaps better as when I want to put my foot down to go it doesn't wait and think about if it should change down, it instantly drops and takes off. I only have it set on u1 which is about half way on the settings and it works great.
    My 2c.
    denmonkey likes this.
  11. denmonkey

    denmonkey Well-Known Member

    Ben I found that too with changing gears down on acceleration. Much better.
    just curious, you can reduce the sensitivity on your idrive ? do you use that option for off road ?
  12. denmonkey

    denmonkey Well-Known Member

    as a note it appears the abode timer used in this video is out by a factor of 2. so times shown on the video are double of the actual times. As a result the speed tests look more like this.
    Sp1 6 seconds
    Sp5 6.5
    Sp9 7.1
    No Controller 9.5 so the difference to 60 is about 3.5 seconds.
    I'll look to correct the video and upload with new figures.
  13. CaptainBanana

    CaptainBanana Well-Known Member

    I don't drive on a dyno, a dyno doesn't replicate wind drag, varying loads, climates, inclines and declines it doesn't even allow for gear changes ... You're really trying to prove a moot point using a dyno which measures power under very controlled conditions to driving on the road under thousands of variable conditions.... I'm not sure why you're so defensive of these things, if you think they're worthwhile that's great where as people like myself would rather not use interceptors and pay for full remapping.
  14. CaptainBanana

    CaptainBanana Well-Known Member

    I appreciate your reviews, the fact it lurches in low range proves my point that using an interceptor doesn't cover all parameters and often leaves an issue to deal with .... I'm not 25 anymore and I don't want a car that needs adjusting/fiddling/setting up every time I drive it as it's not fun as you get older screwing around all the time.
    denmonkey likes this.
  15. Aaron Schubert

    Aaron Schubert Moderator

    I Idrives are adjustable for throttle reaction - when in low range you can make them very slow to react, so when your foot is bounced around on the accelerator it doesn't reflect in the way the engine reacts; they can be made doughy, if that makes sense.

    I still won't be fitting one to my vehicle

    denmonkey and Albynsw like this.
  16. CaptainBanana

    CaptainBanana Well-Known Member

    Most late model cars already dull throttle response in low range for this reason... This is another reason intercepting signals doesn't work across all situations.
    Aaron Schubert likes this.
  17. shanegtr

    shanegtr Active Member

    Could it be reading the pressure as an absolute pressure? ie including atmospheric pressure. The live values that I get from my Disco include the 1bar of atmospheric pressure- so at idle my pressure shows 14.5psi or 1bar and at full boost my readouts show around 32psi so the actual boost put in from the turbo is around 14-15psi
    denmonkey likes this.
  18. denmonkey

    denmonkey Well-Known Member

    Could be Shane. Someone else suggested that too.
    I'm not sure though, as it would suggest not sure that would make sense for the final run then.
    Open to input
  19. Albynsw

    Albynsw Well-Known Member

    Sounds like dynos are a waste of money :rolleyes:
    My only point was that you say their placebo effect, the dyno proves that is not the case. I am not defensive about it and have no skin in the game other than I find it amusing that people criticise or review a product that they haven’t even tried

    I have remapped my cruiser which is when the dyno operator ( who does not sell throttle controllers) told me they do work. I chose to disconnect it when it was tuned and no longer see the need to use it with the tune.

    Have a bit of a google around and you will see a lot of high end European performance car owners use these products too .
    komaterpillar and denmonkey like this.
  20. Rhett HS

    Rhett HS Active Member

    All these things can do is give more throttle sooner in the accelerator pedal range.

    If i can push the pedal quicker than you, i can still beat you.

    The faster the pedal is pushed, the more equal 0-100km/h times will be. Lets say i can push the pedal to the floor in 0.1 seconds or less. With a throttle rejigger i might cut it down to 0.06 seconds or less. So the difference in 0-100km/h times is 0.04 seconds or less (for me with my foot, based on those hunch times).

    Training your ankle to work faster is a cheaper, simpler, more reliable, more flexible solution.
    denmonkey likes this.

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