Suggestions ... rebuilt 1HZ or 1HD-T

[daniel96]

Hi folks my first post I believe although I have had this account for a while. Hope everyone’s doing well. I’m just after some advice on which direction I should go in , last week my 1HZ said goodbye and cracked a piston (so we believe) and now I am in a situation where I can rebuild the 1HZ (this time using all turbo spec gear) for around $6000 or drop in a 1HD-T for an extra $2000 now I can source a good 1HD-T with lowish kilometres in the 100000s but am really unsure as they are around 8K for one. BUT to me it makes sense dropping a 1HD-T in as it’s factory turbo ( tells me it’s designed for a turbo and it’s safe) however I am highly aware of the big end bearing problems however they will be replaced every 100k. So do I go down that line or do I rebuild my 1HZ to suit turbo ? I’m really unsure I feel staying with the 1HZ is a step backwards and are probably still just as unreliable as a stock 1HZ with after market turbo even with ceremic coated pistons and turbo con rods will it really produce that much extra power safely over a long period of time ? What do you guys think I should do ? Obviously I am also running standard gearbox but once’s that’s shot it will also be upgraded so not a concern just yet. I do a lot of rural travel out in the bush so I need something reliable. Please only comment if you have had experiences with both these engines. I’m truely stuck between a rock and a hard place with this one and need to get the ball moving. Thanks guys !

 

[itlldoo]

from your post go with the 1HDT sounds like you won't be totally satisfied unless you do
i have had both but i still run with my inter-cooled turbo 1HZ it has been more reliable over time.......420k on the clock, but i know the clock is wrong.

 

[Aaron Schubert]

Both great engines. One has power and reliability, and one just has reliability (in its non turbo state).

The big end bearings are really not the end of the world. From memory its about $600 to get done every 5 years.

I would be wary putting a turbo on a 1HZ without insanely good tuning, as there are far too many horror stories about them.

At the same time a 1HDT with 100k on the clock may actually need attention, depending on its run hours, service history etc.

How long do you plan on keeping the vehicle? Have you considered moving to something else?

Aaron

 

[itlldoo]

How to Convert your 1HZ to 1HDT | Noordeman Diesel

www.noordeman.com.au

 

[RBJET]

A mate of mine has gone through the same process over the last 2 years although he has just sold the 1HD-T to drop an LS in the cruiser.
It started life as an NA 1HZ, then went turbo and front mount cooler which made it driveable.
As he was chasing more power he pulled that out for a 1HD, which was night and day in drivability compared to the 1HZ.

I say, if you can afford it. The 1HD will be a worth while investment. Especially if you want to chase a little more power in the future.

 

[mauriceb]

Hi Daniel,
The 1HZ has mechanical injection and only 2 valves per cylinder for starters while the 1HD-T has electronic injection with 4 valves per cylinder. Those 2 things on their own make the engines chalk and cheese.
With my 2 1HZ's 1 was an 80 Series and remained standard it was a good reliable truck although wouldn't pull the straw from your milkshake. The other was a 100 Series and I had it upgraded with a Turbo etc by Berrima Diesel Service (these guys are among the best and well known). I didn't have any issues with the engine thereafter however, as far as power increases went it was roughly 1 gear better off on the hills (It was a manual) and much smoother to drive with better acceleration. It also towed my 1 tonne Haines Hunter boat a lot easier than before, but still a garden snail on long hills.
The 1HD-T on the other hand was a fleet vehicle where I worked. It had around 700k on the clock was an auto and to the best of my knowledge had never had the bottom end rebuilt. I would jump into my turbo 1HZ in the carpark at work after having just got out of the 1HD-T and think I had left the handbrake on.
So, in other words, a 1HZ with a turbo performs better than a standard, but it's not a 1HD-T.

Good luck.

Some sketchy infor on this post 1Hd-T are a 12 Valve with Mechanical pump . The 1Hdft is the 24 Valve version and the 1Hdfte is the electronic IP version from the the later Hdj78 /79 including the 100series ifs cruiser. 100 series diesel's are a factory 24v turbo engine's ,one of Toyotos's best. Berrima Diesel has to many negative posts online, I personally would stay clear.

 

[rob_macca67]

Some sketchy infor on this post 1Hd-T are a 12 Valve with Mechanical pump . The 1Hdft is the 24 Valve version and the 1Hdfte is the electronic IP version from the the later Hdj78 /79 including the 100series ifs cruiser. 100 series diesel's are a factory 24v turbo engine ,one of Toyotos's best. Berrima Diesel has to many negative posts online, I personal would stay clear.

Yes, this had me confused a little as well as I knew that there was no electronic controlled IP until as u mentioned in the 78/79/100's. Also, the bottom end bearing issue on the HD-T, I thought was due to a bad batch of bearings initially and once replaced that this was no longer an issue... but I'm not really up to scratch on those engines long-term really....

 

[Rusty Panels]

Some sketchy infor on this post 1Hd-T are a 12 Valve with Mechanical pump . The 1Hdft is the 24 Valve version and the 1Hdfte is the electronic IP version from the the later Hdj78 /79 including the 100series ifs cruiser. 100 series diesel's are a factory 24v turbo engine's ,one of Toyotos's best. Berrima Diesel has to many negative posts online, I personally would stay clear.

My apologies for the bum steer. I was talking about the later FT. I had forgotten about the earlier engine.

I have deleted the post so as not to confuse.

Cheers.

 

[Perth Pioneer]

I wouldn't hesitate to go the 1HDT. Just remember you will need to update the fuel pump if it doesn't come with the engine.
My 1HDT has a Gturbo, Moonlight airbox and Safari cooler and made 140kw at the wheels with 35inch tyres. The extra power really makes it a pleasure to drive, especially if towing.

 

[daniel96]

B

I wouldn't hesitate to go the 1HDT. Just remember you will need to update the fuel pump if it doesn't come with the engine.
My 1HDT has a Gturbo, Moonlight airbox and Safari cooler and made 140kw at the wheels with 35inch tyres. The extra power really makes it a pleasure to drive, especially if towing.

Nice mate how many ks on yours ?

 

[Perth Pioneer]

240k km. Only thing replaced were big end bearings just in case and they were OK. Injectors reconditioned @ 200k km due to km not any issue.
I was worried about the turbo longevity but it hasn't been an issue neither has the extra boost it makes. Turbo installed around 6 years ago.

 

[phs]

Both great engines. One has power and reliability, and one just has reliability (in its non turbo state).

The big end bearings are really not the end of the world. From memory its about $600 to get done every 5 years.

I would be wary putting a turbo on a 1HZ without insanely good tuning, as there are far too many horror stories about them.

At the same time a 1HDT with 100k on the clock may actually need attention, depending on its run hours, service history etc.

How long do you plan on keeping the vehicle? Have you considered moving to something else?

Aaron

turbo a 1hz no dramas it’s just how much fuel you add that is the problem. So yeah it’s all about the tuner

alot of talk about the big end bearings on the 1HDT can’t comment my self but a mate has owned one from new in a 100 series 450k on the clock still factory bearings

As for the OP
Ideally a new 1hdt never been a fan of rebuilds or second hand motors. Also chances are your running gear will need some upgrading too

alot the drivetrain attached to the 1hz was fairly average, what model cruiser do you have ?

 

[Aaron Schubert]

turbo a 1hz no dramas it’s just how much fuel you add that is the problem. So yeah it’s all about the tuner

alot of talk about the big end bearings on the 1HDT can’t comment my self but a mate has owned one from new in a 100 series 450k on the clock still factory bearings

There are a lot of stories of those who have built turbo 1HZ vehicles and had issues. A lot more than those who've had long term success. Not worth the effort in my opinion.

The big end bearings had recalls in the early days, and I had mine changed once and they were worn. At 450k they should be replaced. It's cheap and peace of mind

Aaron

 

[itlldoo]

There are a lot of stories of those who have built turbo 1HZ vehicles and had issues. A lot more than those who've had long term success. Not worth the effort in my opinion.

its just like the News mate ! only drama is reported or remembered, saying that i have a 1HDFT sitting in my shed ready to go when and if the 1HZ goes kaput, but 5 years over 200k with the turbo 1hz, bloody thing just keep going. so did i get bang for my buck ($10,068 all totaled ) or did i throw my money away ?

 

[phs]

At the end of the day a turbo in any diesel is beneficial, diesels love air

its just how much fuel you add which will make or brake it

 

[callmejoe]

I had a 105 1hz, turbo up, all tuned with different fuel pump bla bla bla. And it went bom, literally..
Yes turbo is beneficial, and yes fuel is important, and if you drive it nicely it could be great. BUT if your got more power don't you want to use it.? This is were you'll start pushing the limit of the 1hz.
There are enough horror stories out there on turbod 1hz for me to say change motors or stay standard.

If you get really excited and want to transform your 4wd the 1HD fte I can highly recommend. If you go that way you'll also need the stronger H gear box.

 

[Aaron Schubert]

its just like the News mate ! only drama is reported or remembered, saying that i have a 1HDFT sitting in my shed ready to go when and if the 1HZ goes kaput, but 5 years over 200k with the turbo 1hz, bloody thing just keep going. so did i get bang for my buck ($10,068 all totaled ) or did i throw my money away ?

Nope, sounds like you had it tuned well, and probably conservatively. What boost, and AFR?

Aaron

 

[itlldoo]

didn't just throw a turbo at it either,
head service, fuel pump rebuild, new injectors, inter-cooled, dyno at (MTQ engine systems), new 2.5" straight thru exhaust,
boost, 12 psi max, egt, 430 highest ive seen, air/fuel unknown, does 130 kph now and pretty well too.
just a much more driveable car, fun too
in at the panel shop atm. getting rust in the sills removed and new rubber door and window seals all round.

 

[Aaron Schubert]

didn't just throw a turbo at it either,
head service, fuel pump rebuild, new injectors, inter-cooled, dyno at (MTQ engine systems), new 2.5" straight thru exhaust,
boost, 12 psi max, egt, 430 highest ive seen, air/fuel unknown, does 130 kph now and pretty well too.
just a much more driveable car, fun too
in at the panel shop atm. getting rust in the sills removed and new rubber door and window seals all round.

Yep, done well then. If you are only seeing 430 EGT it will have a decent AFR too, which explains why its been trouble free

Aaron