Subaru 2006 Forester Recovery Points

[Frug]

Hi there knowledgeable people!

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with recovering Subarus?

I've got a 2006 Forester and was wondering if anyone knows of the recovery points in the front and rear. I've got a tow bar on the rear, so i guess i could use that for the rear, but any suggestions for the front?

Cheers

 

[mattyh24]

G'day,

Just be sure to use a rated hitch block and rated bow ("D" ) shackles to recover off the rear, and not hooking onto the towball. towballs have a habit of being weak with the sorts of loads required for a recovery and becoming a missile. Subaru should be able to direct you to recovery points on the front if any..

matt

 

[yarney]

Hi Frug
The only recovery points on a Subaru are the tie down points on the front i have been off roading Subarus for 8 years and have used them and never broke one yet

Don't try to pull out a deeply bogged lge 4wd you mite have some issues then
The rear you put the rated bow shackle through the hole on the tow bar

Jan

 

[xtrailer]

Iv'e got the same set up on the xtrail tie down points on front and rear tow hitch. For the couple of recoveries on the front I use an equalizing strap basically forming a triangle between each side and creating a central point to recover from, it spreads the load over two points.

 

[muc the truck]

buy some max tracks for the Subaru. don't snatch it.

Every one seems to call the rings at the front tie down hooks , yet when you car rolls off the side of the gillies range north qld the tow truck winches the 2000kg car up a 70deg 100mtr forested slope with them. This is how a jackaroo was recovered while the highway was closed for 1/2 hour.


I have always used my factory tow points listed in my manufactures drivers manual were it says there for towing and goes on to say that you need to hold my 2 buttons on the dash to disengage drive . to both diffs and don't tow more than 40 kms per hour , this is a Colorado .

What I don't do is yank on the bloody things with a snatch strap like super man on youtube . I still use a snatch strap but I roll a vehicle at about walking speed in to tension the stretch and have the tow vehicle then hold his brakes on instead of holding is right foot down to the floor .

the snatch strap slowly retracts by its self as muddy requires less effort when slow than fast to brake the suction and you pull forward with a little self help from the bogged vehicle idling in gear. 2-3 goes and your out without ripping apart you vehicle on your factory tow point. Now if it doesn't move , I ask the tow drive to perform a hill start with handbrake and tow from a already pre tensioned snatch strap to add more tension then hold his brakes while I drive out . I don't do beach work so I see no need to snatch recover.


manufactures by law have to fit recovery eyes as standard . there not designed for launching off with a snatch strap but they are designed for winching and towing as tow trucks do every day.


believe it or not , as part of adr rules on selling cars here in Australia , they are tow hooks .

Just not for yanking on.


max trax are so much better and safer.
Now all those that have snatch straps and rated recovery hooks modified to there vehicle , Ask your self this . Does the clown snatching you out have a 8-10 tone rated tow bar ? Because that's the possible strain some clowns place on a snatch strap when they take a run up and launch like a loony to pull your fully loaded rig out completely fitted out with the arb catalogue.

I am an advocate for slow recovery rather than the snatch method simply because no one has rated rear recovery points when your stuck and your lucky enough to have moded rated front tow hooks . your better off and safer to own a set of max tracks because the last tome I looked your Haynes reece tow bar assembly is rated way less than your snatch strap and d shackles are.

 

[yarney]

buy some max tracks for the Subaru. don't snatch it.

Every one seems to call the rings at the front tie down hooks , yet when you car rolls off the side of the gillies range north qld the tow truck winches the 2000kg car up a 70deg 100mtr forested slope with them. This is how a jackaroo was recovered while the highway was closed for 1/2 hour.


I have always used my factory tow points listed in my manufactures drivers manual were it says there for towing and goes on to say that you need to hold my 2 buttons on the dash to disengage drive . to both diffs and don't tow more than 40 kms per hour , this is a Colorado .

What I don't do is yank on the bloody things with a snatch strap like super man on youtube . I still use a snatch strap but I roll a vehicle at about walking speed in to tension the stretch and have the tow vehicle then hold his brakes on instead of holding is right foot down to the floor .

the snatch strap slowly retracts by its self as muddy requires less effort when slow than fast to brake the suction and you pull forward with a little self help from the bogged vehicle idling in gear. 2-3 goes and your out without ripping apart you vehicle on your factory tow point. Now if it doesn't move , I ask the tow drive to perform a hill start with handbrake and tow from a already pre tensioned snatch strap to add more tension then hold his brakes while I drive out . I don't do beach work so I see no need to snatch recover.


manufactures by law have to fit recovery eyes as standard . there not designed for launching off with a snatch strap but they are designed for winching and towing as tow trucks do every day.


believe it or not , as part of adr rules on selling cars here in Australia , they are tow hooks .

Just not for yanking on.


max trax are so much better and safer.
Now all those that have snatch straps and rated recovery hooks modified to there vehicle , Ask your self this . Does the clown snatching you out have a 8-10 tone rated tow bar ? Because that's the possible strain some clowns place on a snatch strap when they take a run up and launch like a loony to pull your fully loaded rig out completely fitted out with the arb catalogue.

I am an advocate for slow recovery rather than the snatch method simply because no one has rated rear recovery points when your stuck and your lucky enough to have moded rated front tow hooks . your better off and safer to own a set of max tracks because the last tome I looked your Haynes reece tow bar assembly is rated way less than your snatch strap and d shackles are.

Remember we are talking about Subarus not large 4wd's
What ever you want to call them tie down hooks, factory tow points or tow hooks that's all we have so yes you go easy
We don't have buttons on the dash or have a lo range low enough to just idle along at walking pace to tension the strap. We definitely can't try a hill start from a strap that is already tight it would just spin wheels, stall or burn out the clutch our cars are light
We only have a monocoque chassis not a full chassis so we are limited in what we can do for modified tow points
I agree with you about going easy and only using enough force as you need if it takes 3 goes then that's what it takes
Me personally don't like to use max tracks when in muddy conditions (only because they will be covered in mud) some people do tho,
When snatching i make shaw the front car knows what they are doing and i still let them know what i want never bull a a gate

Jan

 

[muc the truck]

Remember we are talking about Subarus not large 4wd's
What ever you want to call them tie down hooks, factory tow points or tow hooks that's all we have so yes you go easy
We don't have buttons on the dash or have a lo range low enough to just idle along at walking pace to tension the strap. We definitely can't try a hill start from a strap that is already tight it would just spin wheels, stall or burn out the clutch our cars are light
We only have a monocoque chassis not a full chassis so we are limited in what we can do for modified tow points
I agree with you about going easy and only using enough force as you need if it takes 3 goes then that's what it takes
Me personally don't like to use max tracks when in muddy conditions (only because they will be covered in mud) some people do tho,
When snatching i make shaw the front car knows what they are doing and i still let them know what i want never bull a a gate

Jan

You wrote this as is the Subaru is going to do most of the recovering seems to me you only need them to pull others out in your Subaru as its written . Not many Subaru's actually do recover others that why I am surprised . There low to the ground with poor off road tyre choice and often get stuck before my Colorado in 2wd. I know My father owned a forester until He traded it in on a Navarra. He was sick of getting stuck on a 30 km dirt road off the Bruce highway just to get to his property when it rained.

use those ski racks for max tracks because snatching yours out the youtube ways only going to kill it. your not built to snatch others so don't bother . your tow bar is not made for it . Max Traxs your best option on the roof. you made me laugh, I thought he were asking about recovery points to pull him out. silly me lol sorry I just noticed you lifted yours .

 

[Chris Donoghoe]

Nice post about the straps.
I never thaught about the straps being used in a slow recovery.
Sounds like this meathod requires a heavy vehicle with good traction.
I am with you Subarus are not meant for recovery.

 

[muc the truck]

Nice post about the straps.
I never thaught about the straps being used in a slow recovery.
Sounds like this meathod requires a heavy vehicle with good traction.
I am with you Subarus are not meant for recovery.

I had a Suzuki sierra a long time ago and used seat belt webbing rated at 3 ton and even rope to tow out vehicles like land cruiser. The thinking that every vehicle needs a tank or a run up to get a bogged vehicle is just wrong . most of the time the bogged vehicle just needs a little help. it was not that log ago a recovery strap consisted of a 3 ton strap with 2 hooks on the end, sold at any servo. 3 Ton 15 Ft. Tow Strap