Seriously need help

jasonh

New Member
ok..thats why i asked about battery before its important to have the correct CCA cold cranking amps when starting only takes a slight drop for the ecu to notice that will affect the fuel pump or relay
just a thought
 

camperman2010

New Member
checked recomended battery
610 cca (cebtury battery)

I dont think its a battery issue, because if it was, it would do it all the time, but only happenes when engine is cold or stopped after 15 minutes of driving, and i dont see it loosing that much amps to cause this issue, and also even after 2 days of not driving, volt meter showing 13.3 volts, so its not a battery issue.
 

ando95

New Member
My old car did this turned out to be the starter motor was shot and drawing to much current from the crank angle senser try getting someone to crank it while u use multi meter on the sender might help might not
 

cloughcarib

Well-Known Member
What about the starter motor? just a suggestion, caused a few issues for me, slow cranking when cold being one of them, until it got worse and started affecting more than cold starts.

I've heard the car cranking it doesn't crank slow.

Sorry your still facing issues muzz. Hope it gets sorted soon.
 

03hilux

Well-Known Member
Could be a long shot, but have you had the engine compression tested hot and cold?
I used to work with a guy who's LPG/Petrol GQ patrol did the same as yours. He did a comp. test hot and cold and got different results. Turned out the head was warped. When the engine was warm, it started no problem. Probably because the head expanded enough to give it a better compression. First thing in the morning, it turned over normally, but wouldn't start.
As I said Its a long shot.

Is it the V6 motor? What is the timing like?
 
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pistonbroc

New Member
Camper man, couple of things we have had in the shop. Oil viscosity too high for outside temp, causes the lifters to over pump and hold valves slightly open. ( this causes semi firing of the engine but no start until engine oil temp rises and viscosity is reduced) cold sticky oil pressure relief valve causes same problem.
Check temp sensor unit, if this circuit is earthed the ECU will presume a warm engine and not go into cold start mode. Its easiest to check the injection pulse when cranking, should be longer on cold start and cranking.
 

camperman2010

New Member
Could be a long shot, but have you had the engine compression tested hot and cold?
I used to work with a guy who's LPG/Petrol GQ patrol did the same as yours. He did a comp. test hot and cold and got different results. Turned out the head was warped. When the engine was warm, it started no problem. Probably because the head expanded enough to give it a better compression. First thing in the morning, it turned over normally, but wouldn't start.
As I said Its a long shot.

Is it the V6 motor? What is the timing like?

Compression is great, dont know if the mechanic done it hot or cold, but told me its up to spec !...
 

camperman2010

New Member
Camper man, couple of things we have had in the shop. Oil viscosity too high for outside temp, causes the lifters to over pump and hold valves slightly open. ( this causes semi firing of the engine but no start until engine oil temp rises and viscosity is reduced) cold sticky oil pressure relief valve causes same problem.
Check temp sensor unit, if this circuit is earthed the ECU will presume a warm engine and not go into cold start mode. Its easiest to check the injection pulse when cranking, should be longer on cold start and cranking.

Hi Pistonbroc, Injector pulse is normal, new temp sensor installed, as for the oil, i havnt changed it since ive had it ( about 6 months ) and its pretty clean, not thick at all, and if that was the case, when it does start it would smoke out the tail pipe, and it does not do that, just raw fuel smell from cranking over and flooding it slightly.
 

prawns

Moderator
Perhaps the issue is too much fuel altogether?

With *non injected* cars when they get flooded the easy way to start them is to jam the accelerator pedal to the floor before turning the key - Dunno if you can do this with a injected car though to try see if it starts straight up from cold doing it the same way? (which might confirm too much fuel?)

Just thought i would chuck the suggestion in as you mentioned stupid suggestions were ok at this point and perhaps it is :D
 

camperman2010

New Member
Perhaps the issue is too much fuel altogether?

With *non injected* cars when they get flooded the easy way to start them is to jam the accelerator pedal to the floor before turning the key - Dunno if you can do this with a injected car though to try see if it starts straight up from cold doing it the same way? (which might confirm too much fuel?)

Just thought i would chuck the suggestion in as you mentioned stupid suggestions were ok at this point and perhaps it is :D

Hiya Prawns, from what i know,if you do that with Injected cars you will def flood them as everything is governed by the computer.
 
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