Rust removal/reversal

spoon88

New Member
Hi all

I've got a few spots of rust on the old girl (she's starting to show her age, unfortunately), and i'm pretty keen to get rid of them ASAP. I've seen a few products for rust removal or reversal, but i'm not keen to go splashing chemicals all over the place (the paintjobs's not as crash hot as it used to be), thought i'd get some advice first. Anyone got any recommendations on what they've used, or suggestions? We're not talking serious rust-spots here, half the size of a 5c coin, and only surface based

Ta

Matt
 

rodw

New Member
Sand them back to are metal, apply wax and grease remover, apply rust converter, then probably hit it with the wax and grease remover (depending on the instructions.), Spray with primer, sand lightly with 600-1200 grit, then top coat a few times and buff. If it is metalic paint you will need to add a clear coat before buffing.

You need to sand back so you get a feathered edge to the bare metal. That means you need to be able to see a few mm of each layer of original paint otherwise when it is done, the paint will look like it is dinted.
 

teza h

Well-Known Member
The problem with this kind of rust is that it is always worse inside the panel, do the repare as the other guyes have sugested, and then try to get in side the panel with some Penetrol or Fish Oil. This will help stop the rust and keep moistuer out, otherwise you will be doing the same repare next year,only worse.
 

centaur

Member
Sand them back to are metal, apply wax and grease remover, apply rust converter, then probably hit it with the wax and grease remover (depending on the instructions.), Spray with primer, sand lightly with 600-1200 grit, then top coat a few times and buff. If it is metalic paint you will need to add a clear coat before buffing.

You need to sand back so you get a feathered edge to the bare metal. That means you need to be able to see a few mm of each layer of original paint otherwise when it is done, the paint will look like it is dinted.

Sorry Rodw, If you are going to sand back ready for primer, I would not sand with anything over 320 dry. If you go higher than this, you will have delamination. Delamination is where there is not sufficient substrate preparation for the primer to hang to, so it will come off in a sheet. Best to use 320 dry, still feather the edges (No shiny bits around edges), then treat with whatever takes your fancy, then once the treatment has dried/set, then primer. Once the primer has gone off, then prepare this with either 600 wet and dry for solid colours, or 800 wet and dry for metallics/pearls/prism paints. If it is a metallic/pearl/prism then a clear coat will be necessary.

Once all this is completed, then try and get behind the panel, and see if it is starting from there, if so, use the same procedure to repair this as well.

PM me if you have any problems, OK.
 

rodw

New Member
Sorry Rodw, If you are going to sand back ready for primer, I would not sand with anything over 320 dry. If you go higher than this, you will have delamination. Delamination is where there is not sufficient substrate preparation for the primer to hang to, so it will come off in a sheet. Best to use 320 dry, still feather the edges (No shiny bits around edges), then treat with whatever takes your fancy, then once the treatment has dried/set, then primer. Once the primer has gone off, then prepare this with either 600 wet and dry for solid colours, or 800 wet and dry for metallics/pearls/prism paints. If it is a metallic/pearl/prism then a clear coat will be necessary.

Once all this is completed, then try and get behind the panel, and see if it is starting from there, if so, use the same procedure to repair this as well.

PM me if you have any problems, OK.

Good advice, I am no expert, but you wll note I was referring to sanding the primer, not the base metal with the finer grades. I did manage to respray my last car in the garage. Promised myself, I'd never do it again..
 

centaur

Member
Good advice, I am no expert, but you wll note I was referring to sanding the primer, not the base metal with the finer grades. I did manage to respray my last car in the garage. Promised myself, I'd never do it again..

Isnt it Fun doing spraywork. I have a head start being a painter by trade. But I am NOT a panel beater, I just get them to look pretty and colour them in.:eek::D I am doing up a Jackaroo for my wife, and documenting it on here. We are about a week away from a full respray. I have pics to put up tonight or tomorrow about the latest parts. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Yours was good advice, just about the sandpaper. Delamination is common as people try to get a smooth result from primer up. The smoothness happens after the spraying is done, just need to get the damn paint to hang on, LOL. :D:D

If he keeps to the 600-800 wet and dry, the paint will hang on, and leave the paint ready for finishing if Acrylic, or leave a good substrate for 2K.

Once done, just polish, sit back, relax and have a beer!!!!!!:D:D:D:D
 
Top