Rear recovery point when tow hitch seized into receiver

Keith B

Member
Today at 5:53 AM
#40
Keith B said:

I have the same problem. But on my 200 Series replacing the towbar is not an option as it is part of the chassis.
I had a fitter give it some heat and WD40 and a good bashing for an hour but it moved only a few millimetres. So I think I might try the WD40 method over a period of weeks and see how I go.
Keith

How is this possible? I've never seen such a thing and can think of at least a few reasons why not. There are also listing's for class 4 towbars for these direct from Toyota.


You are dead right. I accepted the advice that I was given without checking it out. Thanks for the heads yp.
Keith
 

CaptainBanana

Well-Known Member
Today at 5:53 AM
#40
Keith B said:

I have the same problem. But on my 200 Series replacing the towbar is not an option as it is part of the chassis.
I had a fitter give it some heat and WD40 and a good bashing for an hour but it moved only a few millimetres. So I think I might try the WD40 method over a period of weeks and see how I go.
Keith

How is this possible? I've never seen such a thing and can think of at least a few reasons why not. There are also listing's for class 4 towbars for these direct from Toyota.


You are dead right. I accepted the advice that I was given without checking it out. Thanks for the heads yp.
Keith

Oh that's good news for you mate is it gives you an easy out.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
It's good to see a change of direction here, from ferk round and save a rusty item, to the attitude of lets look at a cost effective replacement.

Apart from the op, no one here’s seen this.
It’s more likely to be ‘seized’ from dust and moisture, and a little soaking and tapping might just be a lot easier than ferking around with removal and replace, bolts are just as possible seized too (?), plus wiring etc to get right again.

I hope the op gives it a go.
As said, my recovery point had seized in too when I went to tow something after some 6 to 12 months once, dust and moisture can fill every space and not allow that bit of wriggle room to slide out.
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
I’ve unfortunately had to unseize a fair few over the years. Something to do with owning boats and going to Fraser a lot I suppose. I’ve tried the tree thing and the winch thing - it doesn’t work. We’ve given a bloke in a hilux head injuries trying to drive away from a gum tree while he’s chained to it. Take the ball out and using a proper sledge hammer, drive the tow hitch INTO the receiver all the way - can take 10 minutes of solid flogging. Then you climb underneath and drive it back out from behind. You’ll want earmuffs and goggles for all the crap that falls out of the car. As you can imagine it is really really fun. Some gloves for the skinned knuckles and maybe keep the women and children out of earshot. Tried heat, tried soaking - they help but only in a small way. Violence is the answer. When underneath you’ll want to hit it square so the hitch end doesn’t mushroom out leaving you with yet another fun job. Once out, make sure you remove it each time you wash the car. Don’t lube it and create another sand trap - tried that too. The new ones like the rangers are blind so they don’t have this problem. Enjoy.
 

Keith B

Member
Just took my 200 Series down to my mechanic and we both got under and had a good look. The towbar is in fact integral with the chassis. The "towbars" that are advertised are just for the gooseneck and wiring loom.
So it's back to the WD40 for me.
Keith
 

Petunia

Well-Known Member
Apart from the op, no one here’s seen this.
It’s more likely to be ‘seized’ from dust and moisture, and a little soaking and tapping might just be a lot easier than ferking around with removal and replace, bolts are just as possible seized too (?), plus wiring etc to get right again.

I hope the op gives it a go.
As said, my recovery point had seized in too when I went to tow something after some 6 to 12 months once, dust and moisture can fill every space and not allow that bit of wriggle room to slide out.

The standard site disclaimer : "Content submitted express the views of their author only. "

Civilly, I can accept anybodies view, I can accept dust dirt and spiders can gum up anything, I live on a dirt road, it is actually the consistency of Talcum, it feels as slippery to the touch. It is coming out behind the door lock buttons on the inside of the doors [FFS] that's annoying me to no end, when wet it sets like pffft. and any machinery here left with out proper maintenance has been ''Dusted'' laying in the bone yard/s or uses so much oil it's not funny. so I am not stranger to dust dert, salt, anything.

What I do not like, is taking on advice without at least some idea of whats going on for > myself, I do not mean your advice is in any way shape or form bad, at all, my original post in this thread, was bin it. I still stand by that, given reading a coroners report, posted as a link, I then asked myself yet again, "who" is responsible. Say I am really green behind the ears? With the same scenario? I get it out and back in. All is good, Until. it is on the back of my car, I retrieve someone, they are behind me, I live. Even ''if'' I know the 'do not use a tow ball' idea, I tow a trailor, the towing capacity of the the tongue as remarked in said coroners report was estimated/calculated to be approximately half its rated weight. Again it is all behind me, I live.

RU-OK, no, I struggle every night with an incident.

I read the comments, leave it be, put a Shackle in the hole ..... Based on what is factual in that coroners report, the Weld from the RHS [ 50x50 x 4 ] to the tongue gave way. 50x50x4 slides into 65x65x5mm ... allowing 5mm clearance to do so, halve that 2.5mm gap all round. At least that is what mine are, both front and back. I grant you yes, they annoy the bajeebs out of me with the slop 2.5mm gives, it is what it is.

as in life, a debate on the internet can open one eyes to a lot of things, the coroners report opened mine wide, you present one side, I have a contrary view, are either wrong? no. Only one person will know, when he gets it out, I hope if he takes one thing from this, is to shine a light down the Inside of the tongue RHS, and if it is rusty, Bin it. And if it does not come out, ask the question, will I take a gamble? or bite the bullet, save some beer money, and buy a new/s'hand one.

I'm all good with advice, If I act on that is the "seven to 2 members said it's ok, officer'' going to cut it in court? :cool:
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
@Petunia
Sorry I wasn’t in any way giving my advice on getting that tongue out of the receiver with any regards whatsoever to that linked story (which I didn’t read by the way) about the recovery incident.

Someone else’s post indicated it was caused by the snatch loop going over the tow ball, so really the op’s problem here most likely has nothing at all to do with the incident.

My advice above in post 43 re no one having seen this, was it the op later who said it’s a little loose in there now ?
It sounds like it isn’t rusted in, but just needs a little effort, probably much less effort than R&R’ing a towbar and electrics.

If the op isn’t sure about this, he can get it out and ask someone with a metal industry background about the integrity of it.

It probably isn’t like cam04 past tow bar problems, but it may be, who here knows ?
 

CaptainBanana

Well-Known Member
Just took my 200 Series down to my mechanic and we both got under and had a good look. The towbar is in fact integral with the chassis. The "towbars" that are advertised are just for the gooseneck and wiring loom.
So it's back to the WD40 for me.
Keith


I feel from an engineering point of view there are many reasons why the towbar shouldn't be integrated, the then there's the accessories part of the problem such as rear bars, then the tow bars are generally certified for the given country for example Australian ADR and Euro standards are different.

Also this suggests it is bolted in, are you sure? I'm from a mechanical background that I've never ever seen a passenger car with an integrated tow bar although anything is possible of course.

Screenshot_20190319-184935_Drive.jpg
 

CaptainBanana

Well-Known Member
I stand corrected under the Hayman Reese listing it does indicate that only the tongue is listed for sale as the towbar is integrated. The other sources of information might be incorrect after all.
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
I stand corrected under the Hayman Reese listing it does indicate that only the tongue is listed for sale as the towbar is integrated. The other sources of information might be incorrect after all.

You’ll start seeing the little plastic slide away ‘window’ in the centre of the rear bumpers on the 200’s now. They all come with integral towbar but Toyota hit you a sh1t load for the plug and tongue haha.
 

CaptainBanana

Well-Known Member
You’ll start seeing the little plastic slide away ‘window’ in the centre of the rear bumpers on the 200’s now. They all come with integral towbar but Toyota hit you a sh1t load for the plug and tongue haha.

Yeah I think they're asking 600 bucks for their tongue and plug... pretty typical for Toyota.
 
Hi guys, an update, thanks for your suggestions/replies. In the end I just decided to get a new towbar - $195 for a genuine Toyota one from a local wreckers, and came with a very clean new looking Toyota hitch, ball, flat plug wiring with Toyota harness plus all the hardware and chassis inserts. Got it prepped and painted at the weekend and will install over the next week or two.

I did try the bolts on the old one and got them all moving so hopefully it will be reasonably easy to change over. I'll check the condition of the bolts and replace with new like-rated high-tensile ones if necessary. I've seen torque specs of 96Nm online which seems reasonable, though one of my existing tow bars' bolts was not torqued to anything like that high.
 
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typhoeus

Well-Known Member
When you get it off, run a hose into the chassis rails if u can to clean out any sand/mud etc. Let it dry out and fish oil inside the rails. Squirt it into every hole u can find .If its been near the sea, you could be saving it from a slow death by rust.
 

EffieC

Member
Yeah I think they're asking 600 bucks for their tongue and plug... pretty typical for Toyota.
Actually you also get the rear wiring harness rear ECU for the trailer interface to car systems ( goes behind the right hand rear panel above the wheel) also it comes with a plastic plug which blocks off the back of the hitch tub to stop the dust coming in, not sure why they they don’t fit that as standard anyway and the most important thing that you get for your money is a nice little bag to put the bumper bar cover in so you don’t damage it
 

CaptainBanana

Well-Known Member
Actually you also get the rear wiring harness rear ECU for the trailer interface to car systems ( goes behind the right hand rear panel above the wheel) also it comes with a plastic plug which blocks off the back of the hitch tub to stop the dust coming in, not sure why they they don’t fit that as standard anyway and the most important thing that you get for your money is a nice little bag to put the bumper bar cover in so you don’t damage it


The thing is if it has an integrated tow bar you would think that the factory BCM or whatever Toyota calls it's version would be pre-programmed for trailers.
 

Tink

Well-Known Member
The thing is if it has an integrated tow bar you would think that the factory BCM or whatever Toyota calls it's version would be pre-programmed for trailers.
If it is like some other makes, the trailer plug cover on the vehicle has a reed switch in it which has two more extra wires than a normal 7 pin plug. These extra two wires plug into another harness and tell the ECM/ECU that a trailer is connected which isolates the reversing sensors and changes the program for the ESC and ABS.
Tink
 

CaptainBanana

Well-Known Member
If it is like some other makes, the trailer plug cover on the vehicle has a reed switch in it which has two more extra wires than a normal 7 pin plug. These extra two wires plug into another harness and tell the ECM/ECU that a trailer is connected which isolates the reversing sensors and changes the program for the ESC and ABS.
Tink


Yeah I understand this has been common for a long time but you would think in a car that comes with a towbar you would only have a plug and play loom and tounge.
 

Tink

Well-Known Member
I think the 200 is a plug and play. I guess why they don’t them standard is due to the different plugs.
Tink
 

Jaye

Well-Known Member
Just took my 200 Series down to my mechanic and we both got under and had a good look. The towbar is in fact integral with the chassis. The "towbars" that are advertised are just for the gooseneck and wiring loom.
So it's back to the WD40 for me.
Keith
You are correct. You get a tounge and wiring harness when you buy a "towbar" for a 200 series.
 
Hi guys, thanks for all your advice regarding this. Got my new towbar prepped last weekend and installed it on Friday. Had a surprise when I looked at the old one after taking it off, have a look how rusted the bottom section of the tongue is (rear view shown)! Should have spotted this when I bought it really so my bad there, but even so, you would never guess it was this bad from the 'front' of the towbar. I don't know why this is so rusty when the rest of the car looks pretty decent, even underneath it is in great condition. My guess is that it was just left like this for 19 years and with water and road crud building up in there that's what happens. Anyhow new towbar is installed and looking good, plus I now have a flat plug which is what my trailer uses. Also made up a little bracket from Bunnings (just love the 'make a bracket' stuff they sell) to hold the Anderson plug battery connector on.
 

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