Provent 200 catch can questions

boobook

Well-Known Member
I saw a report somewhere the other day that now Toyota wont cover any warranty on engines with a catch can because they have been shown to increase pressure in the engines breathing system causing oil leaks and turbo issues, will try and find it again so I can post it here


I keep pondering catch cans and came across this thread and another relating to Toyota and Catch cans.

The issue is that Toyota claims that several engines have been stuffed because people have let catch cans overflow. They issued a tech note to dealers that they must take pictures of catch cans and Chips during any service and upload them to the Toyota website. Some owners remove them when making the warranty claims and Toyota wanted documentation as photos before the vehicles came back for the claim. I guess they will use that evidence if any fault could have been caused by an overflowing catch can or chip.

I always wonder if these things help or hinder, but I have seen so many problems with chips, and not convinced about catch cans yet.

I am convinced that half this after market stuff causes as many problems as they solve.
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
I didn’t have one on my old 79 and at 180k had the mechanic do an inspection/ clean. This is the condition it was in

E7ED1504-6526-4E94-A39F-42FF09310D6B.jpeg


D467E041-8E3C-4559-B799-AF40B4956A81.jpeg


And this is after he cleaned it

96D4BCC4-AD3C-40D4-8AE6-888F92915C2D.jpeg



I fitted a catchcan after that.
After that experience I planned on fitting one on my new 79 and had it ordered to be installed pre delivery with all my other accessories but come installation time they declined to fit it as they had in the mean time had a warranty knock back on a clients car because of a catch can. He was in the middle of discussions with the well known catch can seller but I have not followed up to see what the outcome was.
Another diesel mechanic I know who used to recommend and install a lot if them has shyed away from them because he said the residue you do get on a vehicle with a catch can is a solid gummy substance that is very hard to remove so he now thinks it is better to just pull the manifold off and do a maintenance clean after you have clocked up the k’s
 

BonZa

Active Member
seeing I started this thread I'll give an update about mine as it has now been on for about 90k.

last week I serviced the vehicle and took off the intercooler etc to check if any oily crap had been building up inside and also to replace the little map sensor filter. the internals of the intercooler were dry, only the slightest oil film could be seen with the "white glove" check. I took off the pipe/elbow that goes from the egr valves to the manifold and it was coated with black dry soot about 0.5mm thick at the most, sorta like what you would see on your exhaust pipe. I washed it with kero and it was easily removed and sparkling clean after a wipe to dry with a rag. therefore I believe the rest of the inlet manifold would be much the same. I had forgotten about this thread and now wish I had taken some photos. next time I will insert a probe and look further inside.

I think the main issue with catch cans are that some people neglect to drain them, something that MUST be done regularly, other wise back pressure could build up in the sump causing seals to bypass.

the Provent 200 I have has a relief on the top that should stop that and it would be fairly obvious if it was venting as it would be covered in black oil. but some people never lift their car bonnet to check things like oil and water let alone a catch can. it is supposed to be drained every 5,000 kilometers and I get about 50ml of black oil when I leave it that long.

some seem to suggest that the oily fumes from the PVC are beneficial to the engine as they lubricate the valves, sorta like an upper engine lubricant, which maybe true to a point. but his would only be true for the inlet valves as the outlet valves are still subject to burnt gases and the carbon within the gases anyway

ps, the old map sensor filter was completely dry and clear inside, probaly thanks to the catch can
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
I didn’t have one on my old 79 and at 180k had the mechanic do an inspection/ clean. This is the condition it was in

View attachment 74421

View attachment 74419

And this is after he cleaned it

View attachment 74420


I fitted a catchcan after that.
After that experience I planned on fitting one on my new 79 and had it ordered to be installed pre delivery with all my other accessories but come installation time they declined to fit it as they had in the mean time had a warranty knock back on a clients car because of a catch can. He was in the middle of discussions with the well known catch can seller but I have not followed up to see what the outcome was.
Another diesel mechanic I know who used to recommend and install a lot if them has shyed away from them because he said the residue you do get on a vehicle with a catch can is a solid gummy substance that is very hard to remove so he now thinks it is better to just pull the manifold off and do a maintenance clean after you have clocked up the k’s
How much was the EGR/intake clean on the service?
How was the engine performing at 180k with that build up??

Id recon without a catch can you probably should have an EGR/intake clean every 60-70000Kms to keep it performing efficiently?
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
How much was the EGR/intake clean on the service?
How was the engine performing at 180k with that build up??

Id recon without a catch can you probably should have an EGR/intake clean every 60-70000Kms to keep it performing efficiently?

I can’t remember how much it was as was about 5 years ago. I didn’t notice or have any issues beforehand, the reason i had it done was because i was getting a remap and was part of my preventative maintenance before doing so, I didn’t get to drive it until after the tune so cant say what difference ( if any) it would of made

As far as how often you should have a clean as I understand it your driving style will dictate that. Lots of short runs cause more buildup.
I remember on the Hilux forum the level of contamination didn’t necessarily relate to the vehicle kilometres, There were some with over 100k that were clean and others clogged at 80
There seems to be more mechanics doing the egr can clean as part of the service regime, no idea if that is effective in preventing build up or not?
 

smitty_r51

Well-Known Member
I haven't confirmed but I was told the new 3.0 v6 ranger has a catch can installed from factory. Maybe manufacturers are waking up to the need.
 
My mechanic installed a catchcan on my 80 Series. He said the intake was pretty wet with oil. I was getting a bunch of other stuff done at the time and just agreed to it without thinking too much about it.

I'm not sure how I feel about it. I don't know how much oil vapour gets recycled through an old oiler normally. It's only been on for a few hundred kms but I checked it out of interest the other day and it was still empty.

I normally tend towards keeping things simple. The fewer links in a system the fewer things tend to go wrong. We'll see how it goes. The only minor issue I've noticed so far is that it will probably make air filter checks/changes a little more fiddly.
 

Rusty Panels

Well-Known Member
I'm fitting a Provent 200 to my Cruiser this week. I can't see any negative side to removing oil vapours from your intake. The longer your intake remains clean the better your performance should be.
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
You blokes sure you aren’t mixing your catch cans with your EGR defeats? Catch cans won’t fix that soot. EGR system clean costs me $90 at Mazda.
We have had many repairs on fleet utes over millions of kms but none caused by the results of never having catch cans or EGR defeats.
 

peterjj

New Member
It's the combination of oily fumes from crankcase ventilation mixing with soot from the exhaust gas reticulation in the intake that causes the real problem. You get oily soot that sticks to the inlet manifold and builds up. Removing one of either soot or oil will make a big difference. Removing both is better.
Also, the ideal way to fit the ProVent is to have a check valve (one-way, anti blow back) on the drain hose and feed that back into the sump. No need to remember to drain then.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
I will have to check the service invoice for my intake/EGR cleanout at my 40,000km service but for memory it was $750.

Imo its just an invite for some mechanic/shop who just love the idea of telling you that you need an full clean & this is what I intend to charge you for it.
Of course you can say no but how many people do??

Just fit a catch can!

@cam04 can you let us all know who exactly does EGR system cleans on 4x4's for $90 because If its a drive of 500km each way I will still save money just on the cost fuel :oops:
 

linuxfan66

Active Member
I didn’t have one on my old 79 and at 180k had the mechanic do an inspection/ clean. This is the condition it was in

View attachment 74421

View attachment 74419

And this is after he cleaned it

View attachment 74420


I fitted a catchcan after that.
After that experience I planned on fitting one on my new 79 and had it ordered to be installed pre delivery with all my other accessories but come installation time they declined to fit it as they had in the mean time had a warranty knock back on a clients car because of a catch can. He was in the middle of discussions with the well known catch can seller but I have not followed up to see what the outcome was.
Another diesel mechanic I know who used to recommend and install a lot if them has shyed away from them because he said the residue you do get on a vehicle with a catch can is a solid gummy substance that is very hard to remove so he now thinks it is better to just pull the manifold off and do a maintenance clean after you have clocked up the k’s
eeesh, how did that even breathe
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
It's the combination of oily fumes from crankcase ventilation mixing with soot from the exhaust gas reticulation in the intake that causes the real problem. You get oily soot that sticks to the inlet manifold and builds up. Removing one of either soot or oil will make a big difference. Removing both is better.
Also, the ideal way to fit the ProVent is to have a check valve (one-way, anti blow back) on the drain hose and feed that back into the sump. No need to remember to drain then.
Great idea, sounds easier said than done though.......
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
I will have to check the service invoice for my intake/EGR cleanout at my 40,000km service but for memory it was $750.

Imo its just an invite for some mechanic/shop who just love the idea of telling you that you need an full clean & this is what I intend to charge you for it.
Of course you can say no but how many people do??

Just fit a catch can!

@cam04 can you let us all know who exactly does EGR system cleans on 4x4's for $90 because If its a drive of 500km each way I will still save money just on the cost fuel :oops:
The Mazda dealer - zupps mt gravatt.
Our mobile mechanic also did it once on my ranger. It wasn’t expensive. Bypass a few lines, introduce detergent, run car for 1/2 hour, canister goes black. It’s not like it’s difficult.
FE52FB44-6EAB-441E-82A6-D16DEF8C951D.jpeg
 
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