Problems wiring a Projecta dcdc charger

Neddysmith

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

So preparing to go away on a lap for 3 months and wired up a Projecta IDC25 DCDC charger to the camper this afternoon, tested it out and connected the solar up first recognized the battery as AGM and solar input and then started charging no issues.

Connected up the car just using a 10m Anderson extension lead and appears not to be working, the Alternator and AGM battery lights flash slowly once every maybe 10 sec, checked volts coming from ute and its 14.24v, when its all connected seems to be 12.43 at same location.

I have a 2012 Ford Ranger with Smart Charge disabled.

Thoughts????
 

CTL

Well-Known Member
What size/guage is the 10m extension lead? That is a long lead and should be heavy
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
So the dc-dc charge is in the camper close to the agm?
What is the volts at at the dc-dc charger(As in entering the charger)?

What b&s cable did you run from the starter to the dc-dc charger & how long is it?

So your saying that your alternator is producing 14.24v at the cranking battery but when the system is connected & the car started the cranking battery is then only making 12.43v?

Edit: after reading more your car charging system is OK but if you use the 10mtr cord from a solar panel to the dc-dc charger your only getting 12.43v at the aux?
Is that correct?
 
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Neddysmith

Well-Known Member
Sorry guys might have been a bit unclear. I am going to be running a seperate cable which splits from my dual battery in the car that will be 6BS cable, only to the rear of the ute.

HOWEVER, i was just using the 10m ext to test the dcd charger before i wired everything and bolted in place etc. I measured the volts at the end of the extension lead at it was measuring 14.24 prior to connecting it up to the dcdc charger. When i connect it upto the dcdc charger the lights start flashing and it seems the voltage drops to 12.43V.

The lead i am using is just a standard 10m ext with anderson both ends, i use either to get extra length when putting out solar panels or running a fridge.
 

Lost1?

Well-Known Member
Voltage drops on long cable runs are common. Do you know what B&S diameter.the cable is? I gear up for overkill on electrical cable. But 6 B&S is the smallest cable diameter I would run on this. 4 B&S would be preffeŕed.
 
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Neddysmith

Well-Known Member
Voltage drops on long canle runs are common. Do you know what B&S diameter.the cable is? I gear up for overkill on electrical cable. But 6 B&S is the smallest cable diameter I would run on this. 4 B&S would be preffeŕed.
Unsure, its pretty small and can handle solar input etc, but i think this maye be the issue.

I will hopefully wire up the correct Amderson plug wire tonight for the ute and then connect everything up without using the extension lea to test, this was only a temp solution to test but hoping this will solve the issues.
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
I have an idc25 in the camper. It will pull almost 40 amps so decent cabling is required or you will be having issues.
 

Neddysmith

Well-Known Member
I have an idc25 in the camper. It will pull almost 40 amps so decent cabling is required or you will be having issues.
Thanks mate, obviously using the ext lead although provides the volts cannot handle when the load comes on. So hopefully when i install the lead to back of the ute and then onto the camper it will resolve this issue.
 

Lost1?

Well-Known Member
Yep. Like Cam04said. Need a thicker cable. Depending on size, solar panels put out about 1/2 what your charger will draw. You need 6 AWG as a start point. 4 AWG will give you some head room if you choose to upgrade later.
 

Corndoggy

Well-Known Member
12.43 volts into the charger is not enough to start the charger and is below the cut out voltage of the charger that's why your leds flash like that and it equate to the message
" Unit on power saving mode. Input is out of operation range" In the user manual.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Voltage drop over a smaller sized cable & over 10mtrs can be a lot.
There are calculators out there you can test this theory on.

I also have a 10mtr Anderson cable that I use to charge my aux battery & also run the fridge when stationary, I still get

I also remember someone else on there having a similar problem about 6+ months ago, maybe try a search.
 

red hilux

Well-Known Member
I think the projecta dcdc chargers also have a wire that you run power to to turn it on, for smart chargers.

While you said your alt smart charger is off. Try running power to that wire any way v
 

Mini

Active Member
12.43 volts into the charger is not enough to start the charger and is below the cut out voltage of the charger that's why your leds flash like that and it equate to the message
" Unit on power saving mode. Input is out of operation range" In the user manual.
Had the same problem. Also (and at the same time) one of the lugs on the Anderson Plug slipped back because it was an Anderson knock-off plug. There are heaps of look-alikes out there and it may come as a surprise to some, they don't mate perfectly. Solar is / was always good.
 
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