Power Probs

MP Sprinter

New Member
I have a 240v induction stovetop with multi 500w, 1000w, and 1500w power settings. When plugged into my 3000w inverter it works fine at 500w, however only works for 20-40 seconds on 1000w setting before the inverter cuts out and reboots. I also have a 200a fuse switch that sometimes flicks off when trying the 1000w setting in stove. I have two 250 lithium batteries connected to this setup.

I would have thought the 3000w inverter should be able to support the 1000w induction stove. Any suggestions on how to make this work by any chance pls?
 

CTL

Well-Known Member
My understanding is that 1000W will be drawing 100 amps. What amp draw do your individual lithiums provide?
 
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MP Sprinter

New Member
Thanks CTL. Each battery has 60amp max withdrawal. So should cover it if fully charged (im assuming the two batteries will allow 120amp max), however might be cutting it fine. I might need a 3rd battery to be sure.

Thanks
 

red hilux

Well-Known Member
Another thing that may throw a spanner in the works.
I can’t confirm nor deny ( but I think it’s BS talk)
The other weekend at the Perth 4wd show, I was speaking to one of the caravan dudes. He was saying that they have been having problems with lithium batteries in parallel not drawing evenly.
he says you would think they would pull evenly but in actual fact it doesn’t

so if that’s the case. Instead of buying another battery. Should just be using 1 big battery
 

CTL

Well-Known Member
Thanks CTL. Each battery has 60amp max withdrawal. So should cover it if fully charged (im assuming the two batteries will allow 120amp max), however might be cutting it fine. I might need a 3rd battery to be sure.

Thanks
Not all lithium battery’s BMS are created equally. Some are cheap and nasty, others use premium management systems. You get what you pay for. Some BMS will allow the scenario that @red hilux mentions to happen.
But your issue is with what your max withdrawal limit is. If you are pulling more than the max, one of your battery’s BMS may shut down putting the full load on your other battery and may cause irreparable damage to that battery.
Linking batteries does not necessarily increase their mass discharge amperage.
It is my understanding that each battery in your bank must be able to individually handle the max draw of your largest load.
 

MP Sprinter

New Member
OK thanks everyone - i think I have quality batteries (Assie Batteries company) made in australia.
I asked someone there if my setup should work and they said yes - however maybe they were optimistic and in sales mode.

Ill reevaluate - or stick to the 500w power level on induction - I dont have any issues at that level and cooks everything fine.

Thanks all.
 

boobook

Well-Known Member
A lot (most) of induction stoves don't have low power settings. They use apparent low power by cycling full power in a duty cycle. You can even hear/ feel this happening when you are heating food. (ON OFF ON OFF etc)

So for exmple your 1500w stove will run at 1500w 1/3 of the time to give 500w of heating. So you need to design your system for full 1500w to make it work reliably and safely at all. I suspect your circuit and fuses can't handle this and only handle low duty cycles of say 33% of the time for 1500w before they trip or overheat. Maybe 15 second bursts of 1500w. Any higher power or duty cycle like 1000w and you are overloading the system and fuses, wiring and batteries are overloaded too long and cutting out. In other words, you are always running the system in an overload fault condition, even at 500w it is overloaded. Bad ju ju.

Induction stoves have no place in off grid use unless you have say 1200ah of batteries that can constantly deliver over 200a, and 1200w or solar. It's simply too power hungry.

Get a gas stove if you don't want very expensive tears.
 
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cam04

Well-Known Member
60a max draw in my limited lithium experience would indicate a deep cycle storage only style battery, probably made from a series of small cylindrical batteries all joined together and a lower grade BMS. High output lithium seems to be from prismatic cells for your 100a plus constant currents.
I’m not confident you bought the correct batteries for your needs which could be a bitter pill.
 

Petunia

Well-Known Member
A lot (most) of induction stoves don't have low power settings. They use apparent low power by cycling full power in a duty cycle. You can even hear/ feel this happening when you are heating food. (ON OFF ON OFF etc)

So for exmple your 1500w stove will run at 1500w 1/3 of the time to give 500w of heating. So you need to design your system for full 1500w to make it work reliably and safely at all. I suspect your circuit and fuses can't handle this and only handle low duty cycles of say 33% of the time for 1500w before they trip or overheat. Maybe 15 second bursts of 1500w. Any higher power or duty cycle like 1000w and you are overloading the system and fuses, wiring and batteries are overloaded too long and cutting out. In other words, you are always running the system in an overload fault condition, even at 500w it is overloaded. Bad ju ju.

Induction stoves have no place in off grid use unless you have say 1200ah of batteries that can constantly deliver over 200a, and 1200w or solar. It's simply too power hungry.

Get a gas stove if you don't want very expensive tears.
Interesting! [not that i will ever have one, yet interesting. my opinion is any heating device = lots of pixies, and run time = not much ]

I asked someone there if my setup should work and they said yes
Well you have problems! and it doesn't really work, properly.
Points to consider are: Batteries == not going there
Cable size: to run a 3000W inverter full noise ~ [not correct but is ball park easy] Divide by 10 ~ 300A, 300A cable is going to be at least 1awg to 0awg [lower number bigger the cable] for a length of 1meter <thats some serious cable [think garden hose size or better] any longer and you may need 00awg?
A 200A fuse/breaker that flicks off occasionally? that is a big problem because theoretically 1500W ~ 150A, which returns to cable size/length and battery/s

Another point to consider terminal arrangement ~
Bat Trees 2.JPG


It takes serious calculation from one end to the final cook, or leave it at home, yes there will be some person come along and say ''my system works'' or ''he is wrong'' but can they nut out [think] through ''your'' problem? My system is a 115AH battery, 4awg cable, 1000watt inverter, it runs a 500watt drill, but a 500watt angle grinder has a hissy fit. [noone needs diagnose that for me either]:cool:
 

Lost1?

Well-Known Member
Your bms is protecting the battery. 100A draw is often for short periods. Continuous draw of 50A is more common for deep cycle batteries.
 
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