PK Ranger Crank Angle Sensor clean

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#1
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Firstly, let me say if you aren't sure your CAS (crank angle sensor) actually needs a clean, leave it be !!
What a bugger of a thing to get to / off / on again.

Anyway, from the 4WD Action forum, Engine & Driveline Diesel Tech section, thread on Engine Mapper Project page 23 http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=158437&start=330 the crank angle sensor was hit on a bit about how it's magnetic, and can get metal particles on it over time, giving dodgy readings.
Vehicle hard to start sometimes, like timing's out.

So figured along with a couple of other little jobs today I'd take it out and clean up.

Bugger of a thing, tucked away up between the exhaust dump pipe and a gazillon other things, ever a jap car assembly person would have a hissy fit doing this.

So you need a 10mm and 14mm socket, ratchet, mid extension, same size spanners, and a 1/4" drive thin cheap 10mm socket with small head ratchet or fixed bar. A really long extension around 6" to 8" might get the bolt easier from the front.

A bit of contortion is required, and sometimes best from behind the cross member, other times between the left axle and sway bar from the front.

So, after taking off the sump bash plate (4x14mm bolts), you remove a little metal heat shield on the bell housing, left side near dump pipe, (2x10mm and 1x14mm bolts).

The sensor is black with a 10mm bolt holding it in.

Here's a pic of the heat shield from behind the LH wheel, and the sensor from the front, both shots take from below where you'll be working, a couple of ramps or jack stands and raise 6" will assist greatly.




The large thing in upper left is dump pipe, the heat shied centre pic covers the CAS at the front on the bell housing, and about centre of that is the wire harness connector for it.




No need to disconnect wiring, but taking the plug form the holding bracket assists getting low for a bit of a look and clean.

Here 'tis . . .




So, mine had no particles on it, just a little dust, so gave it a good blast with CRC Sensor Cleaner, allowed to dry, and refitted . . . hmmm that sounded easy, let me rephrase.
I stuffed around trying to get 2 fingers on either side of the 10mm bolt head to do up by twitching the tips of my fingers so delicately so not to see bolt fall out of tiny space where it's located.
After getting the thread started, you can sort of twist a hand back at about 50 degrees and whilst scraping it on all sorts of brackets and protrusions, you can get the bolt up near finger tight, then about 15 mins to use short 1/4" drive fixed bar and socket to do up the last 1/4 turn.

There you go, easy. (HAH !!)

Ok refit connection in bracket, heat shield, sump bash plate.

I fitted a new (better ?) MAF sensor while doing this, the whole engine seems quieter and a little smoother, will see if the occasional sh!tty start is fixed, but I am suspicious it might be the crank angle sensor needs replacement, or glow plugs might need replacement.
 

Chatty

Well-Known Member
#2
It's like Japanese motorcycle engines - they make them, dehydrate them to shrink them, mount them in the frame and then add water to expand them to fill all the available space...
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#3
I love watching those mega factory shows and the car assembly.
You see them fitting things up to the motor out of the vehicle, then putting it in under the bottom of the engine bay all fitted to the cross member etc, and thinking yeah be great to work on that later.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#5
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Well, I was kinda hoping to find some metal bits on it Richo, that would have probably been the issue, but it is still intermittent, seems to be better, ok (in fact great !) more often now, other times it will just wind, rough, like a timing issue.

Either the CAS in on its way out, or maybe I have a glow plug issue . . . could be power down too, am working with new batt charger now to desulfate the main and 2nd batts.
If I have been running the fridge for a couple of days on main, the main battery is down-ish, starts, but harder.
When I've deep cycled it it winds over well and seems to start better, so maybe running down 50% and desulfating a few times might help (both batts).
I will do this process at least once a month from here on.

With the glow plugs, my GP light goes out on the dash, and then another 1 - 2 secs you hear the click.
If I go before the click it winds a bit before firing up, if I wait for the click, all good.
This also seems better after a deep battery charge.

I also installed another MAF sensor the other day when I did the CAS check / clean, a special one from Japan, quicker response / operation.
The bloke with them is in Sydney, and he sent over a special OBD2 dongle that recalibrates the ECU for the new MAF settings, very smart fellow, built the EGR / fuel mapper for the PK / BT50.
This seems to have made a positive difference to all round operation of the engine.

Still analysing it all, will try this battery recondition for the next 4 or 5 days doing both batteries over night a couple of times, draining a bit running the fridge between alternating.

You've got the same Ranger, are you having issues ?
 
#6
Yes it is a bit of a pig to start but not all the time which has me puzzled.
I have the Manual Mapper as well running at zero with the option 2 harness from Young.
Ranger only has 30ks on it so I guess glow plugs are ok, Might just be a process of elimination.
Sounds similar to your starting issues though.
Cheers , Richo.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#7
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I'll keep you posted here if I find anything out with this.
You'd think your CAS should be ok at those lower km.

I was thinking, besides it seeming like a timing issue, it also reminds me of the old petrol 'vapour lock' in my previous Holdens / Fords at times in decades past.
Really hot days the fuel would sometimes vapourise in the lines of a hot engine bay, and be a pig to start, it's sort of like that, or the rough timing out feel.

If I release the key, leave it a couple of secs and go again, it's sweet.

It was doing this pre mapper, so there is some sort of thing to work through with it, a minor thing really, but don't want something going when out bush if I can work it out ok.

I think the new fast responding MAF I fitted has helped, it only does this maybe 1 in 20 starts.
 
#8
That sounds exactly the same as mine with the start issues but mine also seems to have a starter motor heat soak issue like the xe Falcon used to have.
If I turn the engine off after a reasonable run then try to restart after about ten mins it is like the battery is dying and it only just cranks over.
I then turn the ign off and on a couple of times then it starts fine, battery terminals and battery seem fine so it may be a starter motor issue.
I think the ecu monitors the starter motor so the issue may be there. More checking and monitoring to do I think.
Richo.
 

MTS

New Member
#9
Hi Les,
I signed up for this Forum just to thank you for the post, My BT50 was idling rough and sometimes shutting down, I followed your instruction and found small metal particles magnetized to the end of the sensor, cleaned it all up reinserted and problem sorted, it even feels smoother right through the rev range.
Mine has done 190000 km and been treated pretty poorly so I wound imagine this would be a common fault.
I am assuming the fine metal is a result of the ring gear engaging with the starter.
I was lucky enough to use a hoist so found the operation a lot easier.
however my CAS was a little reluctant to slide out but became easy once i flushed around it with compressed air and patiently wriggled it.

Cheers
MTS
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#10
Hi Les,
I signed up for this Forum just to thank you for the post, My BT50 was idling rough and sometimes shutting down, I followed your instruction and found small metal particles magnetized to the end of the sensor, cleaned it all up reinserted and problem sorted, it even feels smoother right through the rev range.
Mine has done 190000 km and been treated pretty poorly so I wound imagine this would be a common fault.
I am assuming the fine metal is a result of the ring gear engaging with the starter.
I was lucky enough to use a hoist so found the operation a lot easier.
however my CAS was a little reluctant to slide out but became easy once i flushed around it with compressed air and patiently wriggled it.

Cheers
MTS
Hey no worries, glad it helped and thanks for the extra info re taking your cas out.

Stick around as it’s a good group here.
 
#11
G'day Les
Similar issues with my '09 BT50, even had the corresponding error code the other morning. l can get to the actual sensor easy enough from above but am stuffed how to undo the connector.... l wish your pics were still showing! l dont want to buy one if l cant fit the blasted thing
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#12
get to the actual sensor easy enough from above but am stuffed how to undo the connector.... l wish your pics were still showing!
Bummer, not sure why pics aren’t showing, have never deleted any here, and pretty sure I didn’t host them elsewhere with links.

Sounds like they’d be no help to you anyway, as your sensor is on the upper bell housing.
Take a pic of the plug, should be straight forward lever little clip on one side gently (either to or away from clip) and work it off with a bit of wriggling.
 
#13
problem is getting onto the plug, l can just barely get one hand onto it.....loving your threads, just ordered a provent catch can and next will be one of ozbushies devices, cheers
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#14
Well good luck with it, google it it’s amazing what you can find from others forum posts etc.
I though the manual bell housing ones were easy !!

Both catch can and mapper good mods.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#15
Hey I just remembered too, the hard starting thing can be the cas, or low voltage issues, or starter motor.

I found it got too bad and would take far too long to crank and start, so ended up changing the starter motor and no more starting problems, also haven’t had a cas error come up since either.

So don’t close off other reasons for the code coming up.
Maybe talk to an auto elec if you want confirmed.
 
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