Pajero NM 3.5L V6 difficulty shifting & going into gear

Hey everyone.

I have done a search and found a fair few threads from people who have has problems going into gear but unfortunately none of those posts except for 1 had an outcome (the outcome of that post was a replacement clutch and DMF to single flywheel - which doesn't really apply here as I have a petrol model which I believe is a single fly wheel from factory but please correct me if I am wrong)

Background: Car has 117xxxkms on it, purchased it recently and have replaced all the gear oil plus timing belt & replaced clutch slave cylinder & fully bled the system which hasn't improved anything. The car looks like it has done some light off road and beach work in its previous life. Has sat for about 7 years without really been driven before I purchased. Bought from a wholesaler after the car was traded in so unfortunately didn't have an opportunity to speak to the original owner.

Symptoms: The gears were slightly notchy when I got the car so I asked my mechanic to change the gearbox oil and also put in a nulon treatment as this has helped my gearboxes in the past when they have been sticky. When my mechanic changed the gearbox oil the difficulty going into gear was worse than before he changed it, it was noticeable before but now its to the point where it barely goes into gear and its worse when it's cold.

When the car is off it goes in and out of gear with ease and the gearbox feels smooth. There isn't any whine coming from the transmission.

From my basic mechanical knowledge I've put it down to either being the clutch, or there is an issue with the gearbox itself.

Weirdly when I was sitting idle for a long time I almost felt a bit of a "click" or something similar while I was trying to shift in and out of gears while I was waiting for a parking spot and suddenly the gears were shifting very easily with the clutch in and I went through every gear without any issue at all. I then took my foot off the clutch and again it went back to being hard to shift into gear again and didn't revert back to the "easy shift" I had momentarily experienced.

Has anyone had any similar experiences like this? Most quotes in Sydney for a new clutch are around $2500 mark give or take depending where it is so wanted to kinda prepare myself for it before taking it in. Would it be worth running the Castrol Manual VMX-M 75W-85 just in case as this is meant to be specifically designed for Mitsubishis? I think the mechanic put in 80w90 but waiting for him to call me back to confirm.

Thanks team!
 

TYNO87

Active Member
Heavier oil will make some gearboxes difficult to shift (Toyota’s are notorious for it) however it wouldn’t come good for a short while then revert back as you described. May still be worth running the prescribed oil though.
From what you’ve described, my first thought is the clutch sticking. Not familiar enough with pajeros but there could be some adjustment in the fork or the clutch pedal.
If you start the car first thing in the morning, put the clutch in and put it straight in reverse does it grind? If it does I would say the clutch isn’t fully disengaging drive and may need to be adjusted.
 

TYNO87

Active Member
Also, I’m not sure how expensive master cylinders are for pajeros but I never change one (master/ slave) and not the other. They’re normally the same age so if the seals are worn in one chances are they’ll be worn in the other as well.
 
Also, I’m not sure how expensive master cylinders are for pajeros but I never change one (master/ slave) and not the other. They’re normally the same age so if the seals are worn in one chances are they’ll be worn in the other as well.
Thanks mate, I have changed the slave and will be changing the master tomorrow so we'll see if that helps at all.

It seems the "moment of magic" where the gears shift easily was achieved without my foot on the brake, when driving its not too bad either. It just doesnt feel like a syncro issue to me unless the mitsubish gearbox is designed in a totally different way where all syncros fail in 1 go, my understanding was they the syncro's are for each gear?

Will see how things go after replacing the MC!
 

Toyasaurus

Well-Known Member
Hi.
If you have a inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing, try removing it to see if the clutch is fully disengaging.
You`ll need 2 people, you can also get a mirror and a light in there to check the fingers of the pressure plate are not bent,
that`s where the thrust level acts on the thrust race to disengage the clutch.
It does sound to me that the clutch is US.

Hope that helps.
Cheers. Ian.
 
Hi.
If you have a inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing, try removing it to see if the clutch is fully disengaging.
You`ll need 2 people, you can also get a mirror and a light in there to check the fingers of the pressure plate are not bent,
that`s where the thrust level acts on the thrust race to disengage the clutch.
It does sound to me that the clutch is US.

Hope that helps.
Cheers. Ian.

US ? Sorry mate what does that stand for? I've got it booked in now with a clutch specialist on Monday, and I'm changing out the master cylinder today as well, if changing the MC doesn't fix the problem then i'll leave it up to them to find out what the problem is I guess.

Also can confirm my mechanic put 75w85 in so no need to change anything.
 

Lost1?

Well-Known Member
Mitsy boxes are sensitive to oil viscosity. I recommend Castrol VMX 75/85. Sounds like the mechanic has used 80/90. Doesn't sound very different, but it makes a big difference. Cheers
 
Mitsy boxes are sensitive to oil viscosity. I recommend Castrol VMX 75/85. Sounds like the mechanic has used 80/90. Doesn't sound very different, but it makes a big difference. Cheers
Spoke to my mechanic and he said they put in 75/85 penrite. I may drop that and change it for the Castrol youve mentioned but I can't see that making a huge difference and a bit of a waste of $$$ ?
 
US, unserviceable, up the sh*t.
Let us know how it turns out.


Cheers, Ian.
Will do, it's with a clutch specialist to properly diagnose today. We'll see what he can come up with, he is bloody grumpy though and wasn't happy I went and changed the slave and master myself. Bloody hard for find a decent mechanic these days honestly it makes me want to buy a brand new car haha.
 
Just a quick update, had the car checked out and they couldnt really find any issues, after getting it back it seems like its far easier to get into gear, so most likely after all the sitting the slave and master cylinder were starting to give way and replacing them has fixed the issue, considering there wasn't any problems with getting it into gear when I originally test drove it. I have noticed that if I try to go in a little quickly it can "catch" and if I go all the way over to the gate in the corner it'll be a bit harder to shift, someone mentioned possible selector bushes or something along those lines so when the clutch does let go I will probably get them looked at.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and help everyone.
 
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