Over heating issue Pk Ranger

#1
Hi guys i have a strange one with my ranger getting slightly warm and just looking to see if anyone else has had similar? Randomly gets warm under load in 5th gear over 100k/h. Car wont overheat sitting or doing city driving have tested by driving around for multiple hours. Car has just been serviced and i replaced the following, Viscus fan, hoses, thermostat, full flush new coolant bled and ran perfect for 3 days driving. Air filter, oil filter, fuel filter, oil has all been done. Water pump is fine coolant does not pump out of overflow or anything like that. Only randomly gets slightly hotter than normal which is uncommon for this ute as it hasn't skipped a beat. It is a pk 2.5ltr ranger. If anyone has any ideas please help me. Im at a loss. Have driven multiple days in a row with it not being a problem then yesterday it warmed up again. Today it did not play up. Cheers in advance
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#2
So your gauge went higher than normal ?
Any idea on actual temps ?
Scangauge or digital readout ?

My OEM gauge was faulty from new, always went up to just under half, but when I got an OBD2 gauge (via Garmin Nuvi) it showed at that point ECT was actually 65c or so, it keeps going up from there to normal 88 / 89 without the guage further moving !!
I fitted a simple red led digital gauge and positioned over OEM gauge on dash.

Get EGR cooler checked, these go commonly in the Ranger.
Hopefully not a head problem.
 

Ashbine

Active Member
#3
I agree with Les....check the EGR cooler..it went on mine last year with the same symptoms as you are describing. Got it replaced and now good as gold. Cost around $500.
 
#4
Yeah mate went higher than normal. I replaced all the things apart from the egr. I have removed the egr valve and cleaned that as well. If was f@#$& chockers. But its all clean now so the intake side is now clean. The cooler it self im unsure about. If it was a head it would do it all the time and i have been driving it for the last 3 weeks and has only done the temp rise handful of times and when she gets warm i back off to 80km and it comes straight back down. Everything apart frome water pump and egr cooler is new. Do you think removing the egr cooler and having a look at that? Im at a loss as everything else is pretty new or brand new and im running out of ideas. As for temps its all stock i have no after market goods on it. Its my work bus so just keeping it stock. Its very well maintained. Over serviced etc.
 

Ashbine

Active Member
#6
Hey Rallyboy, my mechanic did mine. $500 included parts and labour. I had already had the viscous fan and system flushed hoping that was the problem. But in the end it was the EGR cooler.

Check this vid out.....although not for a PK Ranger may still help you diagnose the problem:
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#7
Cooler just needs removing to see if there's any leaking, you might even see leaking if you get it road temps and take off the engine cover.
Looking from the front it's the silver long square section tube at RH side of head, 2 rubber hoses coming into it from the front of vehicle.

PK_egr_cooler.jpg


I think they CAN leak internally, so maybe remove and do a light pressure test with low pressure air from a compressor, while holding cooler body in a bucket of water.

If you ever fix the EGR with elec module (and blank plate for good measure and safety), you can remove those pipes, put a couple of 9mm ball bearings into those hoses with a little sikaflex for sealing, reattach with clamps to keep looking normal.
The EGR cooling is independent of the cooling system, ie it's its own little bit so you can just block them.
 

red hilux

Well-Known Member
#9
Stupid question.

Is it common on the Mazda also?

I know is suppose to be the same, but I’m sure there are slight differences. Example. A mate of mine works at a gearbox shop. He has done stacks of Ford ranger gearboxes, but has never done a Mazda box
 
#10
Hey Rallyboy, my mechanic did mine. $500 included parts and labour. I had already had the viscous fan and system flushed hoping that was the problem. But in the end it was the EGR cooler.

Check this vid out.....although not for a PK Ranger may still help you diagnose the problem:
Awesome thanks mate. Will purchase one and bang it on.
 
#11
Cooler just needs removing to see if there's any leaking, you might even see leaking if you get it road temps and take off the engine cover.
Looking from the front it's the silver long square section tube at RH side of head, 2 rubber hoses coming into it from the front of vehicle.

View attachment 58972

I think they CAN leak internally, so maybe remove and do a light pressure test with low pressure air from a compressor, while holding cooler body in a bucket of water.

If you ever fix the EGR with elec module (and blank plate for good measure and safety), you can remove those pipes, put a couple of 9mm ball bearings into those hoses with a little sikaflex for sealing, reattach with clamps to keep looking normal.
The EGR cooling is independent of the cooling system, ie it's its own little bit so you can just block them.
Awesome tha ks heaps Les. Its the last thing i have to left so will just purchase a new one and see how it goes.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#13
Awesome tha ks heaps Les. Its the last thing i have to left so will just purchase a new one and see how it goes.
Well, might be head, but hope not for your sake mate.
I would remove cooler and check it, should only take an hour to R&R it, test as noted above in bucket of water, must use very low air pressure, I'm guessing probably around 5psi, a vehicle tyre compressor should be ample.

Cooler is ~ $600 I think, wouldn't go an buy one without finding a failure first.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#14
Also curious on the blanking method but very wary as well. Have you done this to your rig mate?
Yes, catch can at 50k, EGR fix at 80k, now at 200k.
I did the Ozbush mapper electronic fix first (google Ozbush electronics), then when happy with that put in a 2mm stainless blanking plate (a few $ off ebay), then with the plate in I KNEW that EGR wouldn't ever function, even if mapper failed, I did the cooler blocking, leaving it in place looking original.

You really NEED an electronic fix.
If you put a full blank plate in, you will get a CEL / code P0401 come up for 'Insufficient EGR FLOW' or such wording.

While you can use a blank plate with ~ 10mm hole, so a little EGR flow to trick computer into thinking nothing wrong, that still lets in some EGR gases, and sort of is a half arse method.
With a partial block, you also cannot eliminate the EGR cooler, so risk of failure of this is still high, and this failing causes a lot of head crackings !

So get a catch can first (Provent 200 or Provent style, I have that latter one from Chip Tuning), then get an Ozbush module and blank plate, then disconnect cooler.
 

Tink

Well-Known Member
#15
Stupid question.

Is it common on the Mazda also?

I know is suppose to be the same, but I’m sure there are slight differences. Example. A mate of mine works at a gearbox shop. He has done stacks of Ford ranger gearboxes, but has never done a Mazda box
The BT50 is bulit by Ford at a Ford factory. If your mate hasn’t done any Mazda boxes he has been missing out on a heap of business. The Mazda boxes also fail. Lots of examples if you google.
Tink
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#16
Stupid question.

Is it common on the Mazda also?

I know is suppose to be the same, but I’m sure there are slight differences. Example. A mate of mine works at a gearbox shop. He has done stacks of Ford ranger gearboxes, but has never done a Mazda box
As Tink said, the 3.0lt motors are the same . . . in fact Young @ Ozbush Electronics developed his EGR mapper after his cooler failed, his was BT50 and equivalent to the PK in model.

Not sure if Mazda auto trans are same as Rangers, but Ranger auto box is crap.
I should know, had a total rebuild at ~ 165k, then niggling issues after rebuild went bang (planetary drive) and rebuilt again totally under warranty.
Finally think that is sorted now, thank God.

Manuals are no problems apparently, wish I'd have known that when purchasing.
 

Tink

Well-Known Member
#17
I think they CAN leak internally.
Yes, they do and that is what causes the problems. See video at Reply #6

The EGR cooling is independent of the cooling system, ie it's its own little bit so you can just block them.
No, it isn’t. It is plumbed into the vehicle’s radiator. Again see video in Reply #6. But yes, you can block the coolant if there are no gases flowing through the EGR system due to blocking plates. And to do that you need a solid blocking plate where the EGR system exits the exhaust manifold.

Here is a diagram which may help the OP and others.

Tink

FFC4B822-DEC5-49D9-981B-85177789BA09.jpeg
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#18
No, it isn’t. It is plumbed into the vehicle’s radiator.
Exactly what I meant, it's independent of any other flows in the cooling system, so once you are sure EGR is not functional, the hoses can simply be blocked with not detriment to the cooling system operation.

And to do that you need a solid blocking plate where the EGR system exits the exhaust manifold.
Or, the Ozbush mapper, it does stop EGR totally, BUT . . . as said, the full blank plate totally ensures that if electronic fix ever failed, circuitry, wiring, etc, that the EGR cooler would not have exhaust gasses passing though, with no cooling :eek:, so I though yeah, full block too, just to be safe, then do cooler block.
The worst that would happen in such a case is you would get P0401 CEL code, which doesn't put you into limp or anything, so travel can still be done ok.
 
#19
Yes, catch can at 50k, EGR fix at 80k, now at 200k.
I did the Ozbush mapper electronic fix first (google Ozbush electronics), then when happy with that put in a 2mm stainless blanking plate (a few $ off ebay), then with the plate in I KNEW that EGR wouldn't ever function, even if mapper failed, I did the cooler blocking, leaving it in place looking original.

You really NEED an electronic fix.
If you put a full blank plate in, you will get a CEL / code P0401 come up for 'Insufficient EGR FLOW' or such wording.

While you can use a blank plate with ~ 10mm hole, so a little EGR flow to trick computer into thinking nothing wrong, that still lets in some EGR gases, and sort of is a half arse method.
With a partial block, you also cannot eliminate the EGR cooler, so risk of failure of this is still high, and this failing causes a lot of head crackings !

So get a catch can first (Provent 200 or Provent style, I have that latter one from Chip Tuning), then get an Ozbush module and blank plate, then disconnect cooler.
Awesome thanks heaps for your help
 
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