Discussion in 'General 4x4 Discussion' started by Bomber2012, Nov 23, 2018.
But Toyota don't use Penrite on there 2.8s ?
Oh what a calamity
There's 5 toyota's run on Penrite here & a Dmax can't trust some price driven I'll have to write to Mr Toyoda & explane the situation
Thanks for that Shanegtr! I didn't know it was actually for a winter rating, makes sense though.
Makes it easy to see why my mechanic reckons not to play with what they recommend. He was saying some people like to use a thicker viscosity but often ends up that it cant pump to the valves etc.
My dad was a mechanic (long time ago) and he always judged oils by how engines looked under the rocker cover etc. when regularly servicing them. He never liked Castrol but always told me to use Valvoline or Penrite. I go with what my mechanic uses. I try to avoid servicing my own cars these days.
The varieties of oil can be difficult sometimes. First time we took the wife's car (Forester) away, tried to get oil in Narrabri. No chance. Quite hard to get and only used in that year's Forester. Would be interesting to hear the engineer's reasoning for it.
I really like this forum, always pick up tidbits of info. Cheers PP
Going to the Vampires up there this week, might drop in an buy a 20lt, purely just for nostalgic purposes, like. It wont be the same though, it will be a plastic drum. I've not seen a 20lt drum since they were made of tin. I might need a loan though, last 20lt I bought I swear I paid $90 for it?
Funny you should say that, back when oil and diesel were cheap, many many years ago I worked a job that allowed me to see exactly that, the internals of engines/heads etc and the sludge they contained, I never liked Castrol, or Valvoline based on what I saw, and based on the work vehicles having Mobil bulk 44gallon drum Mechanics oil tipped in them only to bust their guts out on the ground, I never liked it either!! That was 25+ years ago, oils have come a long way since then and doubled in price.
Oh What A Feeling if $2.00 worth of diesel would last all week like it did
It's not without its flaws but at the time I felt it was controlled enough to show there was in fact a difference in oils performance under those repeated test conditions.
You know you are getting older when you reminisce about being able to fill your motor bike for less than a dollar!
The sludge thing is interesting. I remember quite a few mechanics claiming that additives were bad for old engines and only added to the sludge. Quite a few used to recommend using the cheapest oil possible, no additives, run it as a flush quick change to pick up gunk out of the engine. Had a few mates who swore it worked and heads were noticeably cleaner after doing it. I don't know how modern mechanics keep up with all the engineering in todays machines, seems like every one is unique in it's own way. Still, I do prefer driving them to the old beasts.
If you go looking you'll find a few manufacturers (I can only account for the brands that I've owned so defiantly not all of them) will recommend different viscosity oils based on ambient temp conditions, similar to below:
Yes, back in 1967, my dad bought me a ex postie honda cub i think it was, and sent me up to the local servo with the mower fuel tin to buy petrol for it. Cost 30 cents for a gallon back then. . .
Generally go Nulon synthetic 10W-50, purrs along nicely! Change it every 10,000km or 6 months whichever comes first.
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