Oils aint Oils .


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Ok , some of us have our engine oils we prefer over another type of oil , some may say Penrite is better , some may say Castrol is better etc , etc .
I have no idea what my mechanic puts in my car so I'm not an oil fanboy :D , my question is how do you know the oil your using is better or worse than the cheapest/dearest oil , is there really any difference or is it all pumped up bulls#t . What proof do you have that your oil you swear by is better than "Brand X" ???
Like a lot of the other ZD30 owners, we are pretty particular about the oil we use. The place to start is the spec sheet. All sorts of things are important, for example the amount of Zinc, Sulfur, density and cold crank density... the list goes on. As any engineer in the field will tell you, there's a huge amount to learn about oils are their differences.


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In some cases "Oils are Oils. I buy my oil from my local service station in bulk, 20 L at a time. The service station is independently owned & operated but buys it`s oils & fuels from a major supplier & re-brands them. The engine oil from the major supplier is around 20% more expensive than the independent for the same product. Iv`e read the data sheets from both products & they are identical.


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I used Delo 400 for years, I found it was the best value and quality for the $$.
A bonus was I could buy it in 20L drums on my car lease fuel card and the drum would do 2 oil changes on the wagon as well as 2 changes on the bike. It must be OK as after 275000km the wagon didn't use a drop between changes.

For the bike they filled at the 1st service with some synthetic European stuff that cost a fortune, but then the bike started burning oil straight away at highway speeds. Filled it with the Delo that I could buy 20L for the price of 5L of the other stuff and it stopped using oil.

Current BT50 I use Nulon synthetic as it is a finicky bastard by all accounts.

As for dealers, one I used to do some work for had 200L Valvoline drums out the back with a jug and a hand pump on top. 6cyl Diesel 4x4 or a petrol sports car, they would chuck the same oil into them regardless of the manufacturer stated specification. Dodgy bastards.


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Same as the above.
First choice delo 400
2nd castrol rx super.
Delo is ideal for mixed fleet, petrol diesel
Turbo or NA. I do use rx in the mrs commodore and it's been ok, it's always used some oil between changes.


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Nope, oils ain’t oils. Not all oils are created equal.
First, make sure your chosen oil meets the manufacturer’s specifiications.
Second, make sure your oil viscosity meets the climate you will be driving in.
If you have a modern vehicle with a DPF, you need a low SAPs oil. I would recommend that even if your diesel only has an EGR, not a DPF, that you also use a low SAPs oil, it will help.
The more expensive oils generally have better additives which help keep your engine clean and reduce internal wear. Note, I said generally.
The people who experience oil usage, and excessive blow by, are generally using the wrong viscosity of oil for where they live.
Really this is a can of worms and you will never get consensus. Bit like, VSR versus DC-DC or Waeco verses Engel, Toyoto versus Datson, etc., etc., etc..
:) There is two reasons to use Penrite (1) they make the oil grade to suit your engine (2) Australian :p
Were talking Hilux here 2015 on OH What A Feeling
Gulf Western does as well also Australian :p


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I don't specify what oil to use, whatever they put in when I get it serviced is what I use .
Got a Fuchs sticker on it at the moment , but probably had 6 different brands put through it.
As long as it gets changed is the main thing ;)
I don't specify what oil to use, whatever they put in when I get it serviced is what I use .
Got a Fuchs sticker on it at the moment , but probably had 6 different brands put through it.
As long as it gets changed is the main thing ;)
Most oil brands don't do the 0/30 C2 to suit hilux , we change our own but yeah Penrite fan boys :rolleyes::cool:


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I don't specify what oil to use, whatever they put in when I get it serviced is what I use .
Got a Fuchs sticker on it at the moment , but probably had 6 different brands put through it.
As long as it gets changed is the main thing ;)
We think alike Rick , as long as its serviced regularly (get my oil and filters changed every 5k) my ute is about to clock 450k . Reckon thats why its still running well . :cool: Is it the oil used or the regular servicing ? BTW Toyota recommend servicing every 10k , my mechanic told me when I bought it do oils/filters every 5 and scheduled service every 10 , so far so good . :)


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Try a sample kit bomber


Been through a few oil brands in the 79
Mobil 1 DELVAC, made a huge difference in reducing engine chatter compared to Penrite.

Some of the high end oils like DELVAC also spec the oil for long interval changes, not that I would leave it past 10k anyway

As for the 2.8 Yoda, the dealer uses Castrol trade that meets Toyotas spec for that engine
You hear some dealers use what ever they get in bulk don't know if that's possible with new diesels
Im a "know what i mean" fan boy.
Yep Valvoline super diesel goes in my 100 series every 5 - 7.5k along with oil filter. Have been using it for yrs and seems to do the job well


Active Member
I have little brand loyalty with motor oil and for me it's a case of use whatever is a good buy (on special) providing it meets manufacturers specifications, with a preference to buy Australian (so I usually use Penrite, Gulf Western or Nulon). I swear the full-synthetic oils the manufacturers recommend for modern vehicles must have a hint of gold in 'em as an additive (?), they are that darn expensive :) Of course this is offset by service levels being 15,000 km in comparison to 5,000 km in days gone past and the extra fuel economy slippery low viscosity oils provide. But that initial purchase price stings a little, so I still opt for buying when on sale. Running Penrite Enviro 5W40 full synthetic in the Colorado engine at present.


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Didn't see it mentioned but also make sure you get an oil that meets your make of vehicles(and year) rating like API CF ACEA C3 etc.
There are a lot of oils out there that are rated for older vehicles!

I don't really know the differences but I looked in my owners manual & go by that.


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Without going to the trouble of getting your used oil tested you really wont know if one brand of oil or even another product from the same manufacturer is better than another. Yes there is a big difference in oil's - they are not all the same. I do get my oils tested and its a bit of a side interest to me - looking at oil analysis results is just one part of my job.
I don' t get into manufacturers specs too much anymore, I more focus on the API specs (SN for petrol, C*-* for disels) - I ran my disco with oil that met the manufacturers specs when I first got it (5W30 Ford WSS-M2C-913 Valvoline synthetic). After seeing the engine oil temps in summer I swapped over to another valvoline synthetic 5W40 oil, but this one dosent meet the manufacturer specs. Since the swap I've seen a reduction in wear metals in my oil and Im a bit happier to have the extra viscosity with the higher oil temps (there was always the chance that a higher viscosity could create more heat, but that hasn't shown up).
My last engine oil change seen the oil in service for 24,000km and if it wasn't for some fuel dilution there would still have been life left in the oil. I generally change my oils on condition rather than set time frames. If you have a modern direct injection diesel you are wasting your money changing oils at 5,000km - the main reasoning for changing them at that interval in the old indirect injection diesels was soot contamination, at 5k the old diesels have a high soot load hence the change interval. You don't get anywhere near that level of soot contamination in newer diesels, hence the longer change intervals. The oil itself is generally more than capable to running 15, 20,000km that some manufacturers recommend (a poor quality oil wont last that distance and may start shearing down)
As has been mentioned if you have DPF's then you need to use low or mid SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulfur) oils otherwise you will damage the DPF, low/mid SAPs oils can be used in non DPF vehicles with no issues