My sr5 lux

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darb

Well-Known Member
Good Points
Great in sand. Reliable. Versatile. Comfort. Easy.
V6 (1GRFE) and 5spd auto (A750F) are bulletproof compared to the diesel hilux variants that are prone to catastrophe.

Bad points
Thirsty being a heavy petrol (but I'm ok with that), IFS, alternator output in the V6 is a little lack lustre.

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SR5 dual cab V6 Auto 5Spd. Love the killerwasps and extra torque of the V6, matched to 5spd auto it's a dream in the predominantly beachy environments I visit. Have kept everything fairly tame & legal, it's a tourer to get me places, not a rig to win me comps (and require constant work). Point n shoot, loves dune work. Girlfriend has taken a shine to attacking dunes in it ... best way to cure car sickness is hand the girl the keys, and grab a can from the fridge.

What mods have you done?

- Cooper 31x10.5 AT3 All terrains
- 2inch Suspension lift (3 in the rear with heavy duty leafs), WA suspension / KYB shocks.
- Front electronic locker, Harrop / eaton (through ironman) (LSD rear)
- Flexisport Canopy (centrally locked)
- Uniden 80ch UHF.
- Axis 5db heavy duty UHF antenna.
- Axis 7.5db 850mhz nextg (CDMA) antenna.
- iPhone cradle connected permanently to Aux power and external antenna, audio feed to stereo.
- Black Duck Canvass Seat covers throughout (custom black / dark gray ones)
- Lightforce Blitz 240's (clear) pencil beams.
- 20inch led light bar, 10,000 lumens.
- Factory Toyota Satellite Navigation / Stereo stacker
- Garmin Nuvi GPS, Offroad maps & City Maps
- Kenwood 500watt 4ch amp powering 4 speakers.
- Focal 10inch flat sub (under drivers seat)
- Stereo bypass switch - to power on the deck and 2 amps without needing a key (when camping)
- Stereo & amps draw power from auxillary battery.
- 115ah Dual battery system, with Redarc 20amp DC-DC charger + 15amp AC-DC Charging (for camping use)
- 600watt pure sine inverter.
- 50 Litre Waeco
- 45 Litre Engel (freezing duties on big trips).
- 20amp sockets in rear of cabin, for fridge.
- 20amp socket in Tray / canopy, for freezer.
- 60 amp spare feed with anderson plug in cabin, for inverter use (and Engel Freezer)
- 660CCA maint free starter battery.
- Wireless temperature monitoring system for fridges (2 wireless freezer-capable senders)
- Voltage monitor with toggle switch between starter and Auxillary circuits.
- Chrome HIlux Scuff Pads.
- Mosquito net attachment to allow sleeping in back with tailgate down (thanks to the gf on this one)
- idle up switch to keep alternator spinning when idling with all my lights lit offroad and also when using air compressor, max amps!
-- Supafit black canvass throughout.
-- Rhino rack Sportz racks.
- Rhino rack half basket.
-- Ironman awning.


What mods are on the list to do?
Water tank , long range fuel.

Why did you buy this vehicle? [/b
Like the balance of things I was looking for

How often do you go offroad?
couple of times a Month

What will your next vehicle be?
Unsure.

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darb

Well-Known Member
marty e said:
How did you do the idle up switch

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Click to expand...
It's a little module that taps into the control wire from the potentiometer in the accelerator to the computer ... alters the signal (not entirely sure how) to up idle to whatever i set it to.

I set it to around 1100rpm ... just enoiugh to spin the alternator up to load (for night work idling with full lights lit and batteries needing charging ... or when airing up and pulling 50amps on a compressor ... air up faster if alternator is dumping more amps into the system).

 
marty e

marty e

Member
Why I asked I have tried to get some thing like that and everyone said it could not be done and where can you get one from

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darb

Well-Known Member
that's what they said about the hilux. Until a bright spark on the hilux site made one.

Maybe try asking the guys in this thread over at new hilux whether it could be done for a triton you're in?

this Thread : Idle Kit Thread
 
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darb

Well-Known Member
Thug said:
Nice job mate

Where did you get the security clamps for your light bar?:)
Click to expand...
They aren't security clamps.. infact mine is super easy to undo (steal) ... two allen key bolts, takes about 30 seconds.

Thing is, it was going to prove really hard to do it permanently... and even then it was still going to be easy to steal .. if they want it, they'll get it ... the only difference is they may trash the rest of car out of frustration, or bend / break bonnets / headlights / panel work etc when trying to force it.

So, i went the other way... make it really easy ... and only fit it when im doing a trip ... takes me 30 seconds, piece of cake. Lives inside the house at other times.
 
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darb

Well-Known Member
Splices into the signal wire to ecu.

Here's copy of instructions from the kit ;


Installation Instructions
Please fully read and understand instructions before installing High Idle kit.

1: Disconnect battery negative terminal and wait at least 2 minutes before continuing.

2: Disconnect plug from throttle pedal and remove electrical tape holding wires together to allow easier access to wires.

3: Strip back the wire coating on wires for pin number 1, 3 and 6 (see images below) being careful not to cut the wire.
Tip1: The pin numbers are also written on the top of the plug, although quite small print.
Tip2: Strip the coating from the wires about 10cm from the plug, this will allow enough length to rejoin the wire should accidentally get cut when being stripped.

4: Strip the coating from the ends of the black, green and blue wires of the High Idle Kit to expose about 1cm of bare wire.

5: Wrap the now bare sections of wire on High Idle Kit around the corresponding bare sections of wire on throttle pedal wiring harness. Refer to table below and also images.

High Idle Wires
Throttle Harness Wires
Black
Pin 1 (Brown/Red)
Green
Pin 3 (Grey/Green)
Blue
Pin 6 (White/Blue)

6: Solder the wires together. When cool, cover in electrical tape to protect.

7: Refit throttle pedal plug to throttle pedal. Tidy up wiring by re-wrapping in electrical tape to bunch together

8: Mount High Idle toggle switch

9: Reconnect battery

10: Start engine and run to operating temp.

11: Turn on High Idle switch. Use a small Phillips head screw driver, inserted through small hole in High Idle control box, to slowly turn the adjuster to desired rpm setting.
-Clockwise to increase rpm.
-Anticlockwise to decrease engine rpm.
Cover the adjustment hole with electrical tape to help prevent dust ingress.

12: Mount the High Idle control box in a secure location ensuring wires will not rub on anything.
Suggested locations are behind the kick panel or cable tired to bonnet release cable.

Note: If a check engine light comes on when adjusting rpm speed back off adjuster slightly and switch engine off to clear the check engine light. Restart engine.

Safety Note: If a fault occurs with High Idle Kit during normal use turn off switch, then turn off engine and disconnect white plug from control box.




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