My modifications for daily driver -LC78.

joshinthecity

Active Member
Whatever you can get for your original bar I suggest you take it. The skip bins at ARB etc are full of brand new bars, sidesteps and suspension components ( including mine)
Yep. I'm having my bar (+winch, Supernova lights, snork) fitted today. I'll be leaving the OEM bar with them I think...
 

GLee

Active Member
Test fitted the SAAS Kombat seat with Huracan adapter. Annoyingly Huracan did not supply the longer required bolts (use original bolts). They were 5mm too short so using some 'inappropriate' bolts for test fit before driving to shop in the following days to get correct ones.
The adapter has a little bit of lateral adjustment which I will play with. I like the firmer, more supportive SAAS seat.
Get to do the front floor soundproofing, stage 1 vibration damping, which I don't think makes much difference in this area, compared to the other areas.
 

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GLee

Active Member
Scariest thing done so far...drilling a hole for the electric mirror wires. Hope my cable crimping has gone well and it all works when I connect it up. Rustproof painted the hole, and finish install with rubber grommet and maybe some auto sealant (dab of sealant) around the grommet. Need to be able to access wires if there is a problem in the future. Never make anything permanent and difficult to repair.
 

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GLee

Active Member
Talk about a car fit for purpose straight off the showroom floor!! Great mods though! Got popcorn ready for you know who!!
I am only limiting myself to stuff that makes daily driving better. Standard vehicle is excellent for standard people, but if you are shorter, you can make minor adjustments for comfort.

The seat is excellent and very supportive.
Decent head unit and speakers are mandatory for city driving :)
Soundproofing is really neither here nor there.

Arm rest and cup holder is nice...but it does encroach onto the side for steering...elbows in for shuffle steering.
DRLs, parking and dash cams, and alarm for safety.

Just connected up the electric mirrors. Nice. The passenger side has limited angle adjust so ever-so-slightly short of where I'd like it.

Also found out the rear dashcam camera cable has failed, after threading it through the rear door all the way to the front. Grrrr. A lot of rework required.
 

GLee

Active Member
Alarm installed and also checked the other works done to date. Not happy with the tendency for 'expert' fitters just bringing out the drill. FFS!

Drilling into metal should always be avoided. Swiss cheesing metal gives more places for rust to form (as I guarantee they did not rustproof the drilled holes). Self tapping screws are never a good choice for long term durability.

I just cannot trust anyone to do things properly. Drills should be banned.

Why why why did I let 'experts' touch my car?

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At least I completed my temporary lightbar bracket. I don't think it will be durable enough, but will use this until I can make something better. The lightbar hole adjustment doesn't go wide enough to meet the Smartbar mounting holes.
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Just need to rewire the switch as when on high beam and pressing it on, it does not work. I know the lightbar works as I tested it before installation, and the internal switch light illuminates when headlights are turned on. Either a wiring colour issue or a harness issue.

I am over mods. Nearly done.
 

GLee

Active Member
Also have to replace the Dashcam rear camera cable...the one that runs from the back door to the front. Apparently the reason the rear cam is not working is because I bought the wrong cable! The cable fits the USB Mini on both ends of the camera, but the wrong cable cannot carry the signal. More work to be redone. Anyone buying a Viofo A129 4K dashcam setup (front and rear), make sure to triple-check the longer cable option.

I also purchased a couple of cheaper end-opening 90L storage boxes. Going to drill some holes through the lid and mount a thick ply over it to form a bed platform. This will allow storage underneath and inside boxes. Simple and functional, and can be easily disassembled when I need to put the rear seat back inside. It could be heavy to lift the bed up (like lifting the hood of the 70 series). May need to install a support arm to keep it open.
 

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GLee

Active Member
Nearly done. Had to pay somebody else to do the cabling through the firewall…very difficult to run cables through it.
I had to makeshift a new left kick panel as the cables and fuse hub used by the team doing the works meant that the original kick panel would not fit (I didn’t provide the kick panel at the time). A bit disappointed about that but the makeshift kick panel is fine (flexible plastic with heat gun and then with leftover foam cover).
I always review all works that were done and redo some aspects to my liking.
Only thing left to do is the back floor and the bed setup.
I may redo the light bar bracket if it doesn’t turn out strong enough.
The Kenwood 10.1” is good. No Apple screen casting without the adapter cable via HDMI (just waiting for the cables to arrive). If you are going to do the Kenwood 10.1” for the LC70 series, the bracket settings should be short original extension, and screen set to highest height. This means your hand clears easily when changing gears.
 

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boobook

Well-Known Member
Alarm installed and also checked the other works done to date. Not happy with the tendency for 'expert' fitters just bringing out the drill. FFS!

Drilling into metal should always be avoided. Swiss cheesing metal gives more places for rust to form (as I guarantee they did not rustproof the drilled holes). Self tapping screws are never a good choice for long term durability.

I just cannot trust anyone to do things properly. Drills should be banned.

Why why why did I let 'experts' touch my car?

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At least I completed my temporary lightbar bracket. I don't think it will be durable enough, but will use this until I can make something better. The lightbar hole adjustment doesn't go wide enough to meet the Smartbar mounting holes.
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Just need to rewire the switch as when on high beam and pressing it on, it does not work. I know the lightbar works as I tested it before installation, and the internal switch light illuminates when headlights are turned on. Either a wiring colour issue or a harness issue.

I am over mods. Nearly done.
Nice . What is the light bar? Is it a spread?
 

GLee

Active Member
Nice . What is the light bar? Is it a spread?
VIC Offroad Bunker Indust light bar. Good spread. I had a much larger one to bolt onto the standard bumper, but sold that to a mate cheaply after I went with the Smartbar. Have not tested it in anger yet (just high beam in local dark streets). Odo is at 750km or so. Holiday plans put on hold due to work.
 

GLee

Active Member
Bunnings brackets, some bolts and drilling/expanding holes is all that is required to make a simple bracket. Rust paint to top it off. I should have bought heavier duty brackets. Time will tell.
Having 3x parking cameras and the dashcam (F+R) makes life easier all round. Parking is a breeze.
 

GLee

Active Member
I have been testing the Kings Travel Oven. The outside gets very uncomfortably warm/hot to touch (do not rest skin on the surface). Glass panel is very hot. Need to mount it with at least 1” clearance, and straight onto wood surface. There is no heat noticed with that air gap.
Frozen foods take a while to cook. Better to thaw beforehand.
Do not overfill as it takes a long time to cook.
Can brown pies.
Got the oven and two clear top canvas bags for $130, so cheap and worth a try.
Would only use it when connected up via DCDC, otherwise it would drain the Lithium battery.
 

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GLee

Active Member
Simple povo bed setup done. Been procrastinating for too long. Only need to do a platform for the travel oven over the left wheel arch.
 

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GLee

Active Member
After the QLD trip some remediation work was needed.

Electric side mirrors were removed as they vibrated too much to get a stable image. Back to original mirrors with wide angle attachments. Kept the control wiring so that a future owner of the vehicle can put it back on if they want.

The SAAS seat rib side bolster ripped in the foam. The back adjust also developed play. Getting it warranted and replacing it with the Mach II (adjust with L bracket). No back rest adjust to fail.

After putting the original seat back in, I have to say the original seat is very good. It is not as bad as originally thought. You still “sit in” the vehicle and has good roll support. I just prefer a stiffer/harder cushion like in sports seats… rather than truck seats.
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GLee

Active Member
Ha, my mistake. Took the car for a quick drive and the original seat was not that nice. Way too unsupportive and soft. Good when sitting and not moving but way too soft for driving. That is why I swapped it. Nothing beats a back to back test. Your back and bum definitely notice the difference straight away.

Also picked up the Kings 7” Lethal spot lights. Swap that with the 12” light bar. It should hopefully give me more depth and similar spread. Will know after I mount them.
 

nickqld

Member
Smartbar and recovery points installed. Had the privilege of being charged an extra 1.5hrs labour to install the recovery points...which were the same mounting holes for the bumper bar. Disappointing but so be it.
The recovery points do not hang very low and will rub on the Smartbar (unless straps pulling in a downwards direction). Better to have it there than not.

Happy with the Smartbar. Now to sell the original bumper assembly :-D ...like selling all the other mod parts no longer required on Gumtree...the experience of every 70 Series owner.
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Hi there, I am just deciding for my new 79 bullbar and the smartbar is really interesting. Are you sure the bar is in conflict with the recovery points?
 

GLee

Active Member
Hi there, I am just deciding for my new 79 bullbar and the smartbar is really interesting. Are you sure the bar is in conflict with the recovery points?
Overseas at the moment. Will send you the Smartbar instructions and you can see for yourself upon my return (I should have the instructions somewhere).
 
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