My DIY MN Triton dual battery setup

Triton14

Well-Known Member
So after a fairly long time of procrastination & which invovled doing a fair bit of research on here & using other net based info + watching heaps of youtubes & 4x4 TV shows I finally got my rear tray set up finished about 8 weeks ago & thought as I asked so many questions I should post up the end result.

As we all know there are many ways to set these things up & really it depends on what your end goal/useage will be which will determine which way you go but overall for what I need this fits the bill for now.

As money was tight due to CV19 I just wanted to get a system up & running so went with a Redarc SBi12D isolator instead of a DC-DC charger, which I picked up on Ebay for $140(normally about $220).

I used batteries direct for all the cabling as you are able to buy by the metre from them plus the cable rating is higher than any I had seen & only charge $10 postage by courier, I had to get a couple of deliveries though as I underestimated the cable lenght as you do :rolleyes:

When I started the install the 1st thing was to work out was where the panel was going to live how to attach it, without rushing to drill holes in the canopy I brainstormed & then the idea light went off, why drill holes when I can just use holes that are already there for the top canopy racks.

panel start.jpg


Made a couple of brackets that did the job.

Panel brackets.jpg


From there where was the isolator going to live, I scratched my head & tried it here, there & everywhere for 2 hours, man there is not one flat area or any room where Redarc suggest & then I has a brainstorm, the fuel filter housing had a bracket attached to it for some reason & there was a drill hole in it wchich could hold a bolt, I had another L shape bracket so ended up bolting my bracket to the housing & then bolting the SB12 to that, seem to work fine but I would have prefered to have 2 bolts holding my bracket to the other but there was just no way to be able to get a drill in there & the housing bracket is fixed.
Ended up with a cable tie as a 2nd support.


Bracket mount.jpg


I used 4B&S 185A for everything from the front starter connections to rear as its what Redarc recommend for 3mtr + distance, some will say its over done but hey imo its better to be over engineered than under!
For connections in the rear I used a combination of 6B&S(140A) for equipment connections & 8B&S for the battery box connections & 50amp genuine Anderson plugs.

Next step & drawing from what I had researched was to pre measure, cut, crimp & heat shrink all the wiring for under the bonnet & the start of the cabling to the rear tray which with the help of a friend fed the positive from the isolator down through the engine bay & along the top of the chassis rail which I secured with 5mm cable ties at 8 inch intervals along the length to where the cab ends & the ute tray meets.

Next issue was where to access into the rear tray/canopy in the least intrusive way & noticed the front of the canopy already has wiring loom going into it which would be for the internal & rear spoiler brake lights & central locking so I thought why not go next to that?

Never really had to hole saw into a reasonably new fiberglass canopy before but you have to do what you have to do right, 2 holes drilled for positive in & earth out.

Couldnt find the right grommets I needed to give a water tight seal so ended up after a bit of googling tracking down some rubber irrigation connections which were perfect for what I wanted to do as they were flush one side & extended the thickness of the canopy, just had to wait for 8 days to be bought into the store I used.

Canopy access.jpg



The rest really can be seen from the inside with the 2nd 100A fuse

2nd 100A fuse.jpg


The earth out of the rear tray was fed out the other hole & was screwed straight into to the chassis.

earth.jpg


Being a chef & in an industry no where near related to anything mechanical for me at the end of the day I really enjoyed the challenge & also was a big learning curve on getting a bit of an understanding on how 12V works.

New set up.jpg


I am also working on a parts list which might help some others in the future.

All up the job took me about 20 hours & cost about $1200

Links to other add ons to my build are below-


 
Last edited:

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Well done
I find it is good to learn about it all and do it yourself as you understand how it all works and how to fix it on the side of the road if needed
Cheers Alby.
Some of learning is born out of wanting to save money where possible, some from not overly trusting of an unknown business to be able to actually do a decent job & there are so many shonks out there which is what spurs me on to do as much as I can myself.

I think a lot of people are falling into both categories & even more so recently with lack of money due to CV19
 

Bru9

Active Member
DIY imo is mandatory, 1200dollars from a shop wouldn't even buy peanuts. When I first got my pajero I had a shop install a dual battery system
for day trips & for 1200dollars they gave me a redarc vsr that wasn't fully wired up, an aftermarket battery tray that started to rust
within a few years, a lemon SSB dry cell 65AH that was pretty much useless in 1.5years, some of my plastics in the cargo area scratched up badly & in general piss poor cable terminations. That was a big 4wd mod shop with about 10 trucks always parked out front their shop.

Too many people don't know about electrics & batteries & pay thousands for overly complicated highly marketed packages that come back to bite them in the rear. To me not knowing this stuff is like not knowing how to change a spare wheel.

I recall something about a nespresso machine? Dunno much about them but 800-1000watts sounds right?
But 1500watt on a battery that small is like putting a 6tonne caravan on a dual cab... Lead batteries suffer from Peukert.

I'd be shocked if the inverter's LV didn't cut out in just a few mins even with a 1000watt load, add in real world conds even worse.

realistically the max smart burst draw on that size AGM would be about 300watts, 400 if you got plenty of solar pumping in. Cut those
numbers in half when battery gets lower than 30%DoD.

edit: I use to run laptops & large LCD screens off my 130AH AGM drawing about 14amps and always amazed me how badly the voltage sagged.

I wouldn't even be crazy enough to put that kind of load on a 120AH lithium, a good 120AH Li has about 11miliohms of resistance,
Most likely 16 or more by the time you get to the inverter with all diy cable terminations.

1000watts draw on average 90amps nominal, lets be very generous & say 12milliohms. 0.012X90=1.08V drop! 100% resting V of 13.5V-1.08= 12.42volts!!!
Now imagine real world battery is 50%, 13.1-1.08= 12.01!!!! now imagine a few years of calendar ageing.

Really the absolute min size li for those loads is going to be 200AH. You could get 4x 200ah sinopoly cells + 250A daly bms direct from
china for a fraction of the cost of a dropin, but you will need a taller battery box. But that would allow to run a nespresso machine much much more practical without problems.

DCS have their extreme 80AH but a tonne of money and quite a small capacity.
 

Batts88

Well-Known Member
Nice looking set up I had an inverter nearly 20yrs ago 150w which was good for recharging cordless drill batteries, run a small portable tv etc good for my needs be careful with that 1500w jobbie.

The Redarc relay is handy good choice it has the added benefit of monitoring the sarter battery when the engine is off and topping it up if solar is connected to the aux. My neighbours had the same isolator for 5yrs and tried it with his it works well.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
DIY imo is mandatory, 1200dollars from a shop wouldn't even buy peanuts. When I first got my pajero I had a shop install a dual battery system
for day trips & for 1200dollars they gave me a redarc vsr that wasn't fully wired up, an aftermarket battery tray that started to rust
within a few years, a lemon SSB dry cell 65AH that was pretty much useless in 1.5years, some of my plastics in the cargo area scratched up badly & in general piss poor cable terminations. That was a big 4wd mod shop with about 10 trucks always parked out front their shop.

Too many people don't know about electrics & batteries & pay thousands for overly complicated highly marketed packages that come back to bite them in the rear. To me not knowing this stuff is like not knowing how to change a spare wheel.

I recall something about a nespresso machine? Dunno much about them but 800-1000watts sounds right?
But 1500watt on a battery that small is like putting a 6tonne caravan on a dual cab... Lead batteries suffer from Peukert.

I'd be shocked if the inverter's LV didn't cut out in just a few mins even with a 1000watt load, add in real world conds even worse.

realistically the max smart burst draw on that size AGM would be about 300watts, 400 if you got plenty of solar pumping in. Cut those
numbers in half when battery gets lower than 30%DoD.

edit: I use to run laptops & large LCD screens off my 130AH AGM drawing about 14amps and always amazed me how badly the voltage sagged.

I wouldn't even be crazy enough to put that kind of load on a 120AH lithium, a good 120AH Li has about 11miliohms of resistance,
Most likely 16 or more by the time you get to the inverter with all diy cable terminations.

1000watts draw on average 90amps nominal, lets be very generous & say 12milliohms. 0.012X90=1.08V drop! 100% resting V of 13.5V-1.08= 12.42volts!!!
Now imagine real world battery is 50%, 13.1-1.08= 12.01!!!! now imagine a few years of calendar ageing.

Really the absolute min size li for those loads is going to be 200AH. You could get 4x 200ah sinopoly cells + 250A daly bms direct from
china for a fraction of the cost of a dropin, but you will need a taller battery box. But that would allow to run a nespresso machine much much more practical without problems.

DCS have their extreme 80AH but a tonne of money and quite a small capacity.

Yes its was the trust issue of often seeing shonk jobs & poor workmanships as well as the cost that urged me on to learn the how to DIY many things.

I just looked up the specs on my Nespresso machine & its a 1700W unit so definitley wont work.

I have been looking at the Conqueco 12v espresso coffee maker that uses the Nespresso capsule but still looking at the other options as well.


The system essentially was set up to run the fridge & some LED lights so its still not fully tested but Im sure that I have will do that, if its able to run higher rated items well thats a bonus!
 
Last edited:

Rusty Panels

Well-Known Member
Yes its was the trust issue of often seeing shonk jobs & poor workmanships as well as the cost that urged me on to learn the how to DIY many things.

I just looked up the specs on my Nespresso machine & its a 1700W unit so definitley wont work.

I have been looking the Conqueco 12v espresso coffee maker that uses the Nespresso capsule but still looking at the other options as well.


The system essentially was set up to run the fridge & some LED lights so its still not fully tested but Im sure that I have will do that, if its able to run higher rated items well thats a bonus!
Well done. It's good to see people having a go and more importantly researching how to do it right.
Good to see you keeping things neat and trying to utilise existing holes. I always try to do jobs like this so that it looks like it actually came from the factory that way. It also helps when you want to remove stuff if selling or whatever so there's no tell tale holes and marks. Theres nothing worse then seeing bodywork riddled with holes from things being removed.
 

John U

Well-Known Member
Yes its was the trust issue of often seeing shonk jobs & poor workmanships as well as the cost that urged me on to learn the how to DIY many things.

I just looked up the specs on my Nespresso machine & its a 1700W unit so definitley wont work.

I have been looking at the Conqueco 12v espresso coffee maker that uses the Nespresso capsule but still looking at the other options as well.


The system essentially was set up to run the fridge & some LED lights so its still not fully tested but Im sure that I have will do that, if its able to run higher rated items well thats a bonus!
Your set up looks very tidy Triton. Great work.

If you're serious about getting a good coffee brew in the bush the Aeropress is cheap, easy to use, makes great coffee, is compact, and uses no electricity. All you need is some boiling water. Invest some effort in sourcing good coffee and getting it's grind right and the results will be great. The Aeropress has a grinder available which fits inside it for convenience which will allow fresh grinding of coffee. All of these things make for a better coffee.

There are quite a few Aeropress users on here. I borrowed my (coffee snob) wife's Aeropress for a trip. I boiled a couple of loads of water in the morning and put one lot in a thermos. Was more than enough for the day and very little effort required once the water was boiled.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Your set up looks very tidy Triton. Great work.

If you're serious about getting a good coffee brew in the bush the Aeropress is cheap, easy to use, makes great coffee, is compact, and uses no electricity. All you need is some boiling water. Invest some effort in sourcing good coffee and getting it's grind right and the results will be great. The Aeropress has a grinder available which fits inside it for convenience which will allow fresh grinding of coffee. All of these things make for a better coffee.

There are quite a few Aeropress users on here. I borrowed my (coffee snob) wife's Aeropress for a trip. I boiled a couple of loads of water in the morning and put one lot in a thermos. Was more than enough for the day and very little effort required once the water was boiled.
Thanks for the feedback John & the suggestion :)



On the coffee front, while I am chef I have also done some barista training & love the idea of having that true fresh ground espresso coffee flavour while out bush but find it hard to transport & power the $5k + machines out there that will ultimately produce that flavour.

Had a look at the Aeropress & its not for me.

I've played with coffee presses/plungers before & for me they dont cut it & while also I know the Nespresso style capsules are no where near the true espresso flavour they are a decent coffee & convenient

So the Nespresso capsule type 12v appliances is what I am looking at.
And it makes it simpler becasue thats what I use at home.

Whatever happens on the decision I just know that instant will never enter into the equation ;)
 

John U

Well-Known Member
This is my wife's current set up at home (plus a roaster). The Grimac is in the process of going into storage. The Strega arrived during lockdown. The Mazzer mini has been around for years.
IMG_3588.jpg


Knowing my wife's preference for good coffee, my parents went out and bought a Nespresso machine and a heap of capsules so I have tried it. The Aeropress is not just another filter or plunger coffee. The water gets forced through the coffee with quite a deal of pressure as it should, meaning that the water is spending less time in contact with the ground coffee as it should. Quite a different result to filter and plunger coffee.

From experience, with good coffee, the Aeropress makes a better coffee than a Nespresso capsule machine using Nespresso capsules.

There's a fair bit of love for it in this thread.

I get where you're coming from though. The convenience of switch machine on, drop capsule in, press button, drink coffee, while out in the bush is pretty awesome.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Nice home set up for sure, better than most can afford :)

I've been in the same thread ;)

I have access to $10K & $200 coffee machines at work & know whats they can do.

We also have the nespresso machines that use thse foil disks & its rubbish to me.

I would have to try before I buy in that style, thats the problem as I know I can enjoy the aluminium capsule coffee.
 

John U

Well-Known Member
Nice home set up for sure, better than most can afford :)

I've been in the same thread ;)

I have access to $10K & $200 coffee machines at work & know whats they can do.

We also have the nespresso machines that use thse foil disks & its rubbish to me.

I would have to try before I buy in that style, thats the problem as I know I can enjoy the aluminium capsule coffee.
She buys coffee machine gear, improves the brew, and makes me coffee. I buy 4wd and camping stuff. Not a bad deal for me.

You would have used some pretty cool stuff then. I'm guessing there'd be pre-infusion and all sorts of other innovative stuff going on near the $20k end.

You could probably borrow an Aeropress. They only cost about $50. Pretty cheap when compared to machine and electrical set up required for some of the other gear.
 

Ol' Harley

Member
Cheers Alby.
Some of learning is born out of wanting to save money where possible, some from not overly trusting of an unknown business to be able to actually do a decent job & there are so many shonks out there which is what spurs me on to do as much as I can myself.

I think a lot of people are falling into both categories & even more so recently with lack of money due to CV19

Have been having a few electrical niggles with my own setup (turned out to be a bad earth) and in searching came across this thread. Mate, a very nice bit of work there, wish I'd been able to read this before my setup was installed. Well done.
 

discomatt

Well-Known Member
Just me but I refuse to own any coffee machine that uses capsules, just one more environmental nightmare, if one person uses them no impact at all but like all things environmental its the millions attitude not a single that makes a huge difference.
Love the set up though
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Just me but I refuse to own any coffee machine that uses capsules, just one more environmental nightmare, if one person uses them no impact at all but like all things environmental its the millions attitude not a single that makes a huge difference.
Love the set up though
Like many things they are recyclable so not in the same class as single use plastics imo.
But Im now looking at a NanoPresso.
 
Top