MU-X Drawers & other internal mods


New Member
Thought I would start a thread to discuss drawer/ fridge slide installations and set-ups, as most of the info seems to be buried in the technical thread.

I'm planning to build my own single drawer and fridge slide (side by side) however need to be able to keep in the third row seats as its the family car and just want to pull in and out the drawer system as required (weekends away etc). Ideally I’d pull out the seats and use the seat bolt points for a false floor, but really only want to do this as a last resort.

My plan is to bolt in my own D-ring anchor points into the floor to use as tie down points (using hook ended bolts or similar) for a false floor on which to mount a drawer and fridge slide. After having a good poke around I think I can bolt 4 points, 2 at the back next to the existing luggage tie down point (either side under the removable plastic box thing) and another 2 just behind the 2nd row seats next to each wheel arch. I’ve checked under the car and the locations appear accessible and shouldn’t get in the way, and I’ll use flat metal plates on the underside to act like washers so as to not pull the bolts through (with plenty on sikaflex to seal them up).

Has anyone done something similar to their MU-X or previous vehicle and have any tips or tricks, or think the solution is just plain crazy? I’ll post up pics of my solution once finalised.


New Member
Hi I have just built mine, wont slip out but may give you some ideas, I am pretty happy with result and I did remove rear seats.

Built a false floor where seats were, I think it is possible to do same above the seats, mine can be removed and seats back in with no holes drilled in the car at all, would take about an hour to do. Hopefully pics will load up as well. Created a spot for my Aux battery behind the drawer and a spot for my very very very cheap compressor (will be replaced soon), tyre deflator and hose etc stored in there.


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New Member
Thanks Jad, I did see your build thread and was keen to know how it worked out in operation. Can you clarify how you tie it down to the points you mention (was considering using the same points - is it standard tie down straps like for roof racks?
Hey TCMTB, I've got two D rings on the front edge of the deck which I tie down using waeco fridge tie down straps onto the two D rings on the floor covered by the toolbox and I have 3 D rings on the rear that line up with the kids restraint points on the back of the second row chairs. I run a strap through all three and the deck doesn't go anywhere, especially once the battery box and fridge are in.

I really must take some pictures with everything in and tied down.


New Member
I'm thinking of just building a shelf and slipping poly cargo cases under them to hold gear. How deep a cargo case would fit? (Pick my LST up April).
I removed the 3rd row of seats and had an Autosafe Cargo Barrier fitted. I then cut two 30x30 RHS Gal tube to length and welded some flanged nuts to the bottom. Using some Nylon offcuts I made up some packers to bring the draw up to a height where it clears the boot sill, this also allows room for the captive nuts. These two lengths of steel bolt down to 6 of the 3rd row seat nuts. The top sections just bolt in using bolts and the captive nuts. The flat floor section on the LHS unbolts with 6 allen key bolts and is switched between a piece that has a fridge slide and a piece that does not. The fridge is not in the car most of the time so I made this section interchangeable to accommodate the needs of the dog, the pram and the weekly shopping. All up just under 30kg in total. Longer bolts were from a bolt shop, steel from a steel supplier and the rest from Bunnings. Without the draw around $200 and 10hrs in total. Cheers



New Member
Thanks for the pics and description parko, very easy to understand and looks very professional. The interchangeable fridge slide section is a good idea too.
First up I'll see how I go doing a tie down to the back of the seats and existing luggage straps, if doesn't work too well I'll resort to a similar setup.
Parko96 very tidy installation you have created. The battery box you have strapped in is that the. ark box with built in charger? What type of battery are you using? And are you using a solar panel to charge it?
Thanks Gents,
That is the Ark Battery box with built in charger, had it about 3 years now, best $500 I have spent. I have a 100amp hour gel battery in it. I intend on installing a battery management unit under the bonnet and run a cable to the boot and finish off with an Anderson plug to plug strait into the Ark (expecting about $250). The Ark keeps the fridge going for 3-4 days without any type of charging, if were not driving much I extend this time by connecting the solar strait up to the Ark. It's a brilliant versatile unit.
Just to clarify last post; when charging the Ark via Anderson plug or Solar Panels the charge goes directly to the Ark battery - not via the smart charger. This is ideal as it charges at a much higher rate as aposed from going through the smart charger. Between trips the use of the 6 stage smart charger extends the life of the battery. Cheers
Hi Parko, I just noticed you have the ArkPak Box tied down on top of some sort of track arrangement on the drawer (I cant see it in detail)? Can you please let me know what it is and where you bought it from, as I have been unable to find a suitable tray to put the Box in?!

Many thanks, C