MU-X 2013 -> Technical Info

Hi all, new member. Yes I've had issues with GPS camera alerts, they show visual alerts but do not give audible alert. Been back to dealer 4 times who have updated sd card etc and last time replaced whole unit which did nothing to rectify problem, dealer and Isuzu said never heard of problem with others which makes me sus because if they replaced my faulty one with new one something is wrong with software.
 
This thread has gone very quiet - did everyone go elsewhere? Is there another thread started where this one left off? Please reply if anyone is out there, and maybe come back with your tales of long term ownership?? I have enjoyed this thread very much - a lot of good info in these posts. I want to be up front, though, and state that I bought the 2x4, for the purpose of using it as a caravan tug. Are 2x4 owners welcome here?

Anyways, I picked up my MY2017 MU-X LS-T 3 weeks ago, with 19000 klm on the clock, but as new condition - a few stone chips and top of rear bumper scratches for me to fix is all. Easier said than done tho, on Silky White pearl, but the result looks great. I have since added a genuine bonnet protector - hoping this will help prevent stone chips. This vehicle is replacing my diesel Territory, and so far I am loving it! The substantial sound of the diesel up front, and how sure-footed it is on the road makes me think, even at this early stage, I have made the right choice.

I do have a question a couple of questions:

1) About the phone contacts list - it has read in from my phone just fine, but I notice when I receive a call in the car, the display on the entertainment system shows the phone number of the caller, but does not match the number with the contact name stored in the phone book. Is it the same for you all, or is there a trick to getting the contact name to display for incoming calls?

2) The front driver side step cap had taken a hit at some stage, and broke the mounting lugs. I may just sikaflex it down, but I did check on the part as a spare. It's $78, but comes primed only, and not painted. The question is, has anyone else bought a side step cap end as a spare, and if so, is it only the silver part that primed, and the rest is actually the raw plastic, or is the whole lot primed, and required painting in two colours?

Hope to hear something back!

Cheers.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
2) The front driver side step cap had taken a hit at some stage, and broke the mounting lugs. I may just sikaflex it down, but I did check on the part as a spare. It's $78, but comes primed only, and not painted. The question is, has anyone else bought a side step cap end as a spare, and if so, is it only the silver part that primed, and the rest is actually the raw plastic, or is the whole lot primed, and required painting in two colours?
Is it like these ?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Isuzu-MU-X-2013-2017-Side-Steps-Running-Boards-MUX-/151880369057
(Note pricing, seems very high compared to your find !)

If any black parts need paint (the raw plastic), you only have to scour with grey scothbrite, and apply a palstic primer, before applying basecoat and clearcoat.
 
Is it like these ?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Isuzu-MU-X-2013-2017-Side-Steps-Running-Boards-MUX-/151880369057
(Note pricing, seems very high compared to your find !)

If any black parts need paint (the raw plastic), you only have to scour with grey scothbrite, and apply a palstic primer, before applying basecoat and clearcoat.
Thanks Les - my pricing was just for the plastic end cap to the sidestep - as per the pic below, but for the driver front one. It's just a plastic trim for the factory LS-T sidestep. I am interested if anyone knows if I will only have to paint the silver part (one colour), or will have to paint the whole thing the dark colour, and THEN the silver part on top of that. I only have access to paint with the spray can, so the less painting required, the better! But thanks for your tips on prep for the plastics.
 

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Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
Usually plastic parts arrive plain black, some have blackout sections, at bottom for example, they are not touched, but the rest scoured, primed, painted, after masking out blackouts.
If yours in white pearl coat colour, then the black bits will be left alone, masking that out.

A (very) few arrive with like a black primer, (usually aftermarket) that would normally all be painted, but a high % (talking 90-95%) of plastics are as above.

You should do the plastic priming, or the paints will end up delaminating from the plastic and flaking away, you see this ALL the time on vehicles and it often even happens from jobs in crash shops where incorrect prep work is done (not plastic priming).
You could likely scour and mask, and take to a crash shop, and ask them to plastic prime for you, take home and paint.

If using aerosol spray pack, you must have a plain solid white of suitable tone ?
This can be used to do such a job, but of course won't match properly in all light conditions.
Good that you got a reasonable result if so.

Maybe relook your sikaflex option . . . clean up parts very well (acrylic thinners is good to ready such surfaces for adhesion), use a good amount of sika on both parts, marry them up, paddle sika around nice and neat / thick, allow a day or two to properly sure before driving, a good weekend job.
 
Usually plastic parts arrive plain black, some have blackout sections, at bottom for example, they are not touched, but the rest scoured, primed, painted, after masking out blackouts.
If yours in white pearl coat colour, then the black bits will be left alone, masking that out.

A (very) few arrive with like a black primer, (usually aftermarket) that would normally all be painted, but a high % (talking 90-95%) of plastics are as above.

You should do the plastic priming, or the paints will end up delaminating from the plastic and flaking away, you see this ALL the time on vehicles and it often even happens from jobs in crash shops where incorrect prep work is done (not plastic priming).
You could likely scour and mask, and take to a crash shop, and ask them to plastic prime for you, take home and paint.

If using aerosol spray pack, you must have a plain solid white of suitable tone ?
This can be used to do such a job, but of course won't match properly in all light conditions.
Good that you got a reasonable result if so.

Maybe relook your sikaflex option . . . clean up parts very well (acrylic thinners is good to ready such surfaces for adhesion), use a good amount of sika on both parts, marry them up, paddle sika around nice and neat / thick, allow a day or two to properly sure before driving, a good weekend job.
Perfect - I might just do that, thanks again, Les!
 
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