aint got my MUX yet
Is it like these ?2) The front driver side step cap had taken a hit at some stage, and broke the mounting lugs. I may just sikaflex it down, but I did check on the part as a spare. It's $78, but comes primed only, and not painted. The question is, has anyone else bought a side step cap end as a spare, and if so, is it only the silver part that primed, and the rest is actually the raw plastic, or is the whole lot primed, and required painting in two colours?
Thanks Les - my pricing was just for the plastic end cap to the sidestep - as per the pic below, but for the driver front one. It's just a plastic trim for the factory LS-T sidestep. I am interested if anyone knows if I will only have to paint the silver part (one colour), or will have to paint the whole thing the dark colour, and THEN the silver part on top of that. I only have access to paint with the spray can, so the less painting required, the better! But thanks for your tips on prep for the plastics.Is it like these ?
(Note pricing, seems very high compared to your find !)
If any black parts need paint (the raw plastic), you only have to scour with grey scothbrite, and apply a palstic primer, before applying basecoat and clearcoat.
Perfect - I might just do that, thanks again, Les!Usually plastic parts arrive plain black, some have blackout sections, at bottom for example, they are not touched, but the rest scoured, primed, painted, after masking out blackouts.
If yours in white pearl coat colour, then the black bits will be left alone, masking that out.
A (very) few arrive with like a black primer, (usually aftermarket) that would normally all be painted, but a high % (talking 90-95%) of plastics are as above.
You should do the plastic priming, or the paints will end up delaminating from the plastic and flaking away, you see this ALL the time on vehicles and it often even happens from jobs in crash shops where incorrect prep work is done (not plastic priming).
You could likely scour and mask, and take to a crash shop, and ask them to plastic prime for you, take home and paint.
If using aerosol spray pack, you must have a plain solid white of suitable tone ?
This can be used to do such a job, but of course won't match properly in all light conditions.
Good that you got a reasonable result if so.
Maybe relook your sikaflex option . . . clean up parts very well (acrylic thinners is good to ready such surfaces for adhesion), use a good amount of sika on both parts, marry them up, paddle sika around nice and neat / thick, allow a day or two to properly sure before driving, a good weekend job.
My 2016 MU-X had a lot of body roll when cornering originally, but aftermarket suspension fixed that. I went Dobinsons within 12 months of owing the car as i was sick of the body roll, also added helper air bags in the back for towing the offroad camper trailer. Had to change them 2 years later in early 2019 when we bought our 20 foot caravan. Had it all weighed, 20kg over GVM without the kelpie in the car so needed a GVM upgrade. Only upgrade I could find in WA was through Pedders. Rides a bit stiffer than the Dobinsons but at least I wont get booked by any scalies on the east coast. GVM upgrade has increased vehicle payload to 3200kg, up 450kg, luckily the van max is 2700kg so really GVM is only up 300kg whilst towing before I get caught out with GCM being over...I have a new MU-X and I find it has a lot of body roll when cornering. My work vehicle is a ranger and has none so when I drive this it seems excessive. Has anyone found this or is it just me?