mn Triton intake clean @ 50,000kms

#1
So after blocking the EGR and fitting a catch can I decided to remove the intake and clean it out. Not being a mechanic and not wanting to do any damage i took my time and the whole job and it took about 5 hours. Thanks to Rogazz for lending a hand while putting it all back together. The only tools we needed was a set of ring/open ended spanners(10 mm, 12 mm and 14 mm), socket set(10 mm, 12 mm and 14 mm and extension bar), pliers and a torque wrench.



The car has just over 50,000 km on it and has had the catch can and blanking plate for around 10,000 km.

Please excuse the 2 blurry photos.

Firstly i downloaded the workshop manual from the net and had a bit of a read.


Then I disconnected the battery and pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body to make some space to work in.


After that i disconnected the wiring harness from from the fuel pump, EGR, alternator, intake temp sensor and two plugs at the rear of the motor. I didn't remove it completely just enough to be able to lift it out of the way while removing the inlet. All the plugs are different shapes so they could only go back onto the correct plug.


I also had to remove the vac line that runs across the rear of the motor. Once this was done i removed the bolts that hold down the intake and lifted it out. The intake on these motors have 2 inlets to each cylinder.


Once I had it off the car I found that there was a significant build up of oil and carbon in the inlet. Because of the design of the inlet and the way the air flows into it, the front two cylinders were coated with about 1.5 mm of the black paste. The rear two cylinders were substantially worse with around 4-5 mm thick coating in some places. The rear two inlets were probably on 85% of the size they should be when clean.



This is the buildup inside the EGR valve


At this point I diluted some fairly strong degreaser and sat the whole intake in a large bucket and started to clean all the inlets. This process took around an hour and a half. I used tooth brushes as they where able to get in and bend around quiet a long way into the main plenum. I soaked the the whole inlet in the diluted solution and then used a pressure washer to remove as much of the coating for in the inaccessible parts of the inlet until the water flowed out clean. Next time around i will invest in a parts washer for this part of the job.



After the clean. Not 100% but much better.



To re install everything was a fairly quick process just a reverse of the order we disassembled everything. The only difference is that you need to use the torque wrench to bolt down the inlet manifold. this is where you need to have your workshop manual as it tells you the correct procedure, order and torque settings for the 12 bolts that hold the inlet down. Its a must to follow this order otherwise you run the risk of damaging the inlet and possibly striping out the treads in the head.

After starting the car again and everything worked without engine light :D I noticed that the idle was smoother than before. After a test drive i didn't notice any power increase but I did notice that under load when the turbo was working hard that the car seemed to pull harder. I will report in a week or two if i have noted any change in fuel economy also.

I'm very happy i have done this and i will probably do it again when the car gets up to 100,000 km and see if the blanking plate and the catch can have helped keep the intake cleaner.

One thing i did note is that from the intake through to the valves in the head were still very dirty but there isn't much you can do to clean that out so for the time being it has to stay that way.
 
#3
It's a good way to be! egr clean in diesels every 50,000k
Lets see how clean it stays with your mods.
All that obviously happened before you added the blanking plate? In 40k......
 
#5
After driving the car for a week and a bit now i have notice definite improvement. Under load the turbo lag is much better. We have been towing a small excavator around 2500kg up the hill to Kinglake and back and the low down turbo response feels much stronger too.
 
#6
Manifold clean

Hey Glenno, well done, your post is a terrific lead in for my son he is about to undertake exactly what you have done to his 2007model with 127K and has not been done before.

Not sure what you mean about the plate though? Where does this fit?

oldnoddy
 
#9
EGR Block

From what i have read about the 2.5 Triton you cant fully block the egr right off or it will cause the engine light to turn on and also possibly limp mode too. My blank plate has a 5mm hole in it and has been running for a while now no problems. the egr pipe is roughly about 25mm in diameter so it limits it a fair bit. You also need to think about legal and warranty when doing this as this mod has an affect on both.

On another note i cant believe the amount of oil being caught by the catch can. Also the state of the oil coming through is pretty nasty so i am very happy that it is not running through the turbo intake housing and impeller.
 

Toddyh

Well-Known Member
#11
You can block it electronically with a simple resistor mod. Google SPV Industries. They sell a few different types from plug and play options to slightly more hands on where you need to cut a wire.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#12
With the Ranger (PK at least) you can get codes for EGR block errors stopped with an ECU tune (part of the tune process), might be same for Triton or other such electronics ?
 

Toddyh

Well-Known Member
#13
With the Ranger (PK at least) you can get codes for EGR block errors stopped with an ECU tune (part of the tune process), might be same for Triton or other such electronics ?
Yes can be done but is expensive. The resistor mod is from $50-150 depending which version you go for. Very simple and I can vouch that it works.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
#17
Yes can be done but is expensive. The resistor mod is from $50-150 depending which version you go for. Very simple and I can vouch that it works.
Well it maybe an old thread but you have my interest as this in my model ute!

I have also noticed my Triton at only 22,000km blows a heap of smoke as well under acceleration.

Mines still under warranty so I don't think Id be to keen on doing this kind of mod yet & even attempt the to take the intake off.

So Im still an novice on all things diesel so what does putting one of these plug in EGR Delete Blanks do anyway??
 

Toddyh

Well-Known Member
#18
You're talking about two different things.
1. Is a blanking plate that is actually a physical plate that blocks the EGR. Usually a hole is required in these to avoid check engine lights.
2. Is an electrical mod that basically fools the EGR into never opening. It's basically an adjustable resistor that slots in the temperature sensor wire.
 

Blue_haired_man

Well-Known Member
#20
I guess my question is why would you do either of these to your Triton??
The main reason is preventative maintenance. The exhaust gas recirculation system is to stabilise exhaust gasses (Nitrous oxide mainly) and therefore reduce emissions by running exhaust back through the intake and therefore engine at lower revs via an egr valve, but can cost you an engine due to the amount of sooty carbon buildup.
Terrible system in regards to engine longevity, so it's a catch 22. Will definitely effect warranty to modify it. It's also illegal with hefty fines to modify emissions systems even though it's not routinely tested so it's up to you and you alone whether you take this route.
Cheers Leo
 
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