MN Triton EGR fixes

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Hi all, I had done a bit of reading & research into this before now but hadn't taken any steps as I wasn't sure of the best route to follow & to be honest the subject still confuses me a bit..
So after just 42,000km of my MN Triton I just had to have the 1st intake cleanout which set me back $500 at the dealer(yes I know you can doin it yourself) but now my warranty period is over I am wanting to take steps to reduce the 'sooting' effect & prefer not to go the blanking plate route if possible & especially now that my intake has had a decent clean out & don't want the build up to start!

I have now come to this decision, do I install a catch can(probably pro vent) or an EGR delete(probably munji) or both??

The catch can is more expensive than the delete but will the delete omit the need for the can??

Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:

mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
really want to do both, catch can to keep the oil out and blanking plate or electronic delete to keep the soot out.

Dont know why you dont want the delete plate, they are super easy on the triton and no codes.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
really want to do both, catch can to keep the oil out and blanking plate or electronic delete to keep the soot out.

Dont know why you dont want the delete plate, they are super easy on the triton and no codes.

Thanks for the reply MML, its not that I don't want to do both but more asking if both are needed?
There is so much info out there that it starts to get a bit confusing after a while.

So do you think this kit will eliminate the need for blanking plate which I know is much cheaper & easier to install?
https://munji.com.au/products/4d56-mn-common-rail-egr-delete-kit-triton-2-5l-turbo-diesel-engine
 
Last edited:

Aaron Schubert

Moderator
They both do similar things, but one doesn't replace the other.

A catch can is completely legal and modifying your EGR is not. Beyond that, I am sceptical of devices that fudge what the ECU reads in order to shut the EGR. On the Dmax, the Munji cable tells the ECU that the outside temperature is below 1 degree or so, which stops it from ever opening the EGR.

What does that do to your fuel system and various monitoring systems, if you've tricked your ECU into thinking its 1 degree outside and its actually 40? I don't like the sound of it, especially when you look at the difference in air density between the two temperatures.

I have just gone the catch can route with my Dmax, and won't be doing anything else.

Aaron
 

mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply MML, its not that I don't want to do both but more asking if both are needed?
There is so much info out there that it starts to get a bit confusing after a while.

So do you think this kit will eliminate the need for blanking plate which I know is much cheaper & easier to install?
https://munji.com.au/products/4d56-mn-common-rail-egr-delete-kit-triton-2-5l-turbo-diesel-engine

Cable will do the job but a blanking plate is about $10 and just involves removing 2 nuts, sliding the plate in and tightening it back up. Bonus of easy access on the tritons.
 

Aaron Schubert

Moderator
PM sent. I've got 200,000km of testing with no catch can.

Keen to know more mate - what were the results? I read an interesting post a few weeks ago of someone in a similar situation. Regular oil changes, quality oil and he had very little build up

Aaron
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Keen to know more mate - what were the results? I read an interesting post a few weeks ago of someone in a similar situation. Regular oil changes, quality oil and he had very little build up

Aaron
Just to give some background, my Triton is 5 years old come December, have done my own oil change in between the factory 12 month service.
So basically I have done an average of just over 8000km per year.
Not much really imo!

You wouldn't think that with so little kms he intake would be so effected but I have seen plenty of pics to think otherwise.

I know the reason behind this but what a stupid f!@#ing bit of engineering this idea is.

And its just not Mitsubishi's that are affected either!
 

milneyy

Member
Plenty of reading on the newtriton forum about the EGR issues.

Consensus is both EGR electronic bypass (not a plate) plus a catch can, is the way to go.
 

Toddyh

Well-Known Member
Keen to know more mate - what were the results? I read an interesting post a few weeks ago of someone in a similar situation. Regular oil changes, quality oil and he had very little build up

Aaron
I've had a resistor in place to control the EGR. It's actually only about 190,000km over 5 years but fair to say I'm happy with the result. Still get oil blow by but no sludge build up.

Oil change every 7,500km (half the recommended). Quality oil. Often do an engine flush too.
 

Aaron Schubert

Moderator
I've had a resistor in place to control the EGR. It's actually only about 190,000km over 5 years but fair to say I'm happy with the result. Still get oil blow by but no sludge build up.

Oil change every 7,500km (half the recommended). Quality oil. Often do an engine flush too.

Good to hear. The resistor is the same as the munji cable, no?

Aaron
 

BusyTech

New Member
I would like to know the value of the resistor & where it's fitted please, I'm a tech & fitting is no problem.
Cheers, John
 

2002GU3

Well-Known Member
G'day mate, I have both - blanking plate and catch can, the plate was in when I bought the car and after getting my intake system cleaned I decided to fit the catch can, I change oil every 5,000k's and probably every 10,000 - 12,000k's the catch can will have around 30ml or so of oil in it. My opinion is to fit both, they're both a reasonably cheap and easy mod to do.
 

oyamum

Active Member
I owned a 2014 mn triton for many (now sold)
I bought it new and sold it with about 190,000k on it.
I can tell you now first hand that it is widely exaggerated the effect the egr system has.

Service your car on time with good oil, LEAVE the egr in place and fit a catch can.

You will have no issues and be completely legal.

I actually never even ran a catch can and when I decided to do an inlet clean at about 160,000 (not because I felt it needed it but because I was putting the car up for sale and I knew people would ask if it was done because “the internet” tells them it should be)
The manifolds were fairly clean and even after I cleaned what small amount of build up there was it made absolutely NO difference....

I honestly believe a lot of people fall for the placebo affect.

When I was a mechanic I lost count how many customers would tell me there car had heaps more power after just an oil change....

Never underestimate a good placebo.
 

Alan Millar

Member
Yep , couldn't agree more . But for a 10min job I thought I'd do it anyway .
Guys on the Delica forum tell everyone to insist on proof that the fuel pump has been overhauled .
My last deli did close to 500,000kms without needing an overhaul
 

BusyTech

New Member
G'day mate, I have both - blanking plate and catch can, the plate was in when I bought the car and after getting my intake system cleaned I decided to fit the catch can, I change oil every 5,000k's and probably every 10,000 - 12,000k's the catch can will have around 30ml or so of oil in it. My opinion is to fift both, they're both a reasonably cheap and easy mod to do.
Bought bare catch can, should have got fittings for Triton, have to make something, Cheers, John
 
Top