MN Triton EGR fixes

Triton14

Active Member
#1
Hi all, I had done a bit of reading & research into this before now but hadn't taken any steps as I wasn't sure of the best route to follow & to be honest the subject still confuses me a bit..
So after just 42,000km of my MN Triton I just had to have the 1st intake cleanout which set me back $500 at the dealer(yes I know you can doin it yourself) but now my warranty period is over I am wanting to take steps to reduce the 'sooting' effect & prefer not to go the blanking plate route if possible & especially now that my intake has had a decent clean out & don't want the build up to start!

I have now come to this decision, do I install a catch can(probably pro vent) or an EGR delete(probably munji) or both??

The catch can is more expensive than the delete but will the delete omit the need for the can??

Thanks in advance
 
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mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
#2
really want to do both, catch can to keep the oil out and blanking plate or electronic delete to keep the soot out.

Dont know why you dont want the delete plate, they are super easy on the triton and no codes.
 

Triton14

Active Member
#3
really want to do both, catch can to keep the oil out and blanking plate or electronic delete to keep the soot out.

Dont know why you dont want the delete plate, they are super easy on the triton and no codes.
Thanks for the reply MML, its not that I don't want to do both but more asking if both are needed?
There is so much info out there that it starts to get a bit confusing after a while.

So do you think this kit will eliminate the need for blanking plate which I know is much cheaper & easier to install?
https://munji.com.au/products/4d56-mn-common-rail-egr-delete-kit-triton-2-5l-turbo-diesel-engine
 
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#4
They both do similar things, but one doesn't replace the other.

A catch can is completely legal and modifying your EGR is not. Beyond that, I am sceptical of devices that fudge what the ECU reads in order to shut the EGR. On the Dmax, the Munji cable tells the ECU that the outside temperature is below 1 degree or so, which stops it from ever opening the EGR.

What does that do to your fuel system and various monitoring systems, if you've tricked your ECU into thinking its 1 degree outside and its actually 40? I don't like the sound of it, especially when you look at the difference in air density between the two temperatures.

I have just gone the catch can route with my Dmax, and won't be doing anything else.

Aaron
 

mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
#5
Thanks for the reply MML, its not that I don't want to do both but more asking if both are needed?
There is so much info out there that it starts to get a bit confusing after a while.

So do you think this kit will eliminate the need for blanking plate which I know is much cheaper & easier to install?
https://munji.com.au/products/4d56-mn-common-rail-egr-delete-kit-triton-2-5l-turbo-diesel-engine
Cable will do the job but a blanking plate is about $10 and just involves removing 2 nuts, sliding the plate in and tightening it back up. Bonus of easy access on the tritons.
 

Triton14

Active Member
#8
Keen to know more mate - what were the results? I read an interesting post a few weeks ago of someone in a similar situation. Regular oil changes, quality oil and he had very little build up

Aaron
Just to give some background, my Triton is 5 years old come December, have done my own oil change in between the factory 12 month service.
So basically I have done an average of just over 8000km per year.
Not much really imo!

You wouldn't think that with so little kms he intake would be so effected but I have seen plenty of pics to think otherwise.

I know the reason behind this but what a stupid f!@#ing bit of engineering this idea is.

And its just not Mitsubishi's that are affected either!
 
#9
Plenty of reading on the newtriton forum about the EGR issues.

Consensus is both EGR electronic bypass (not a plate) plus a catch can, is the way to go.
 

Toddyh

Well-Known Member
#10
Keen to know more mate - what were the results? I read an interesting post a few weeks ago of someone in a similar situation. Regular oil changes, quality oil and he had very little build up

Aaron
I've had a resistor in place to control the EGR. It's actually only about 190,000km over 5 years but fair to say I'm happy with the result. Still get oil blow by but no sludge build up.

Oil change every 7,500km (half the recommended). Quality oil. Often do an engine flush too.
 
#12
I've had a resistor in place to control the EGR. It's actually only about 190,000km over 5 years but fair to say I'm happy with the result. Still get oil blow by but no sludge build up.

Oil change every 7,500km (half the recommended). Quality oil. Often do an engine flush too.
Good to hear. The resistor is the same as the munji cable, no?

Aaron
 
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