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LN65 Hilux with 7m-ge swap

Discussion in 'My 4WD' started by Andrew_LN65, Sep 24, 2017.

  1. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Never had a 4x4 before, always been into cars that go fast or go around corners but i do a lot of camping and surfing these days so it's time for something different that can get the mrs and I to more places!!
    I have a 7m-ge sitting on my engine stand 90% built that needs a new home, and figured I could just squeeze it under the bonnet of an old lux so here we are!
    The engine is a 3 litre twin cam 24 valve straight 6 and was originally delivered in the MA70 Supra and MX83 Cressida. A mate of mine had one of these in a Bundy years ago and always said it was great off road. They have stacks of low down torque but still rev to the moon if put together right.
    The car is a 1985 dual cab with 755k on the clock and came with a horribly smokey 2L diesel which was promptly removed and sold. It's had a pretty crappy respray at some point and all the bushes/shocks were shagged but overall it's surprisingly clean for the age and kms. So far ive only found a small patch of rust in the tub and another small patch under the driver's floor.
    The plans are for a fun, quick, capable off roader that we can take on long trips, find some new surf spots. Rooftop tent and club rego once it's built and running.

    Here's what it looked like the day i bought it home (14/8/17):
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  2. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Step 1 - Buy all the things:
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    Step 2 - Remove the boat anchor diesel donk and balsawood spec G52 gearbox:
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    Step 3 - Dummy up a motor out of spare parts to see if it fits and start to measure up for engine mounts:
    (it fits!!!!!!!)
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    Gearbox cases in too for good measure:
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    Ive even got room for a radiator in the stock position which saved a LOT of headaches relocating it. Of course things are all pretty tight lengthwise but i should be able to make it work. Squeeing enough fans in there is gonna be a challenge!!
     
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  3. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Step 4 - Make up some proper engine mounts and brackets. Snuck the engine back a touch more and ended up with nearly 20mm between the radiator core and crank pulley, it'll probably be 10mm from the shroud.
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    Step 5 - Modify the gearbox crossmember so it actually bolts up properly. I drilled and tapped 2 new holes in the mount itself so i could reuse 2 existing holes in the crossmember and machined up a piece of square solid to sit nicely in the lip of the crossmember with 2 new holes for rear of the mount. It then got welded in and painted.
    Engine and box now bolted in with no stands or anything! Woo hoo!
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    Meanwhile continue buying things and draining the bank account....
     
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  4. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Step 6 - Turn all this stuff into an exhaust system:
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    Had to modify the extractors a bit as they came out too low and would have hit the front diff and driveshaft at full compression so i chopped 40mm out of both secondaries and welded them back together, didnt get any pics sorry.

    Welded up the whole exhaust, I ground the welds back after this photo cos i hate MIG'd welds but unfortunately i dont have a TIG! Used V-band flanges everywhere instead of the old 2 or 3 bolt style and will never go back!!
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    It's all tucked up as high as i can while still leaving room for articulation, keeping a nice route for good gas flow and also leaving room for additional fuel and water tankage down the track.
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    Mufflers are both Magnaflow offset/straight-throughs and the cat is a 100 cell high-flow, 2.5"stainless piping all the way with mandrel bends
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2017
  5. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Step whateverwereuptonow - New fit all the new bushes i bought and shocks all round. Bushes are Toyota genuine and the shocks are just cheapo Ultima 4x4 ones off ebay with the big body. Really wanted Bilsteins, but ouch! Down the track ill reassess the suspension, right now i kind of just want the thing running!!
    No pics sorry, y'all know what new shocks look like.

    Next i fitted a new brake master cylinder and gasket, i pulled the booster off and repainted it too as the brake fluid leak had f*cked the old stuff.
    Landcruised 3/4" clutch master went in too as ill be running a concentric slave cylinder and they like a bit more volume than 5/8.
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    Cut a new hole in the floor for the transfer lever, ill make a nice plate to go over it all and hide the big gap at the front.
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    Mounted up my remote oil filter(s):
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    Easiest filter change ever!!
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    Ive also finished installing the remote central locking yesterday but no photos of that either. Drivers window reg went in ages ago as well as the new headlights. Single piece tailshaft got made and went in just before exhaust last weekend.

    I think that brings us about upto speed, still lots of plotting, planning and buying parts going on behind the scenes though. Im gonna head back out to the shed now and finishing assembling the cylinder head :)
     
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  6. ShaunOz

    ShaunOz Active Member

    Nice build mate. Just a little bit faster than the old diesel :D
     
  7. typhoeus

    typhoeus Well-Known Member

    That engine looks like a 3RZFE with a couple of extra cylinders
     
  8. red hilux

    red hilux Well-Known Member

    Where the turbo?
     
  9. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Thanks fellas yeah should be a bit quicker than the old 2L diesel which barely had enough power to pump its own oil around!
    3RZFE's are a fair bit different to the 7MGE, chain/scissor gear driven cams, "F" series narrow valve angle head... the valve shims are interchangeable but thats about it i think!! Good donk though the 3RZ, had one in my old 2wd RZN149 and it loved a beating!
    Turbo, haha, not required. The motor isn't exactly a standard build and im more into throttle response than lag ;)
     
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  10. typhoeus

    typhoeus Well-Known Member

    You might find that it will rev hard, but that might not be what you need when hopping rocks climbing a gravelly hill
     
  11. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    True, but nobody said you have to use the pointy end all the time!! Besides, i can see some situations where it be handy to be able to hang onto it rather than changing gears and risking bogging down.
     
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  12. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Had another good week of progress with a few wins along the way. New radiator turned up and is bracketed a bit nicer than the old one which saved me another 10mm at the front of motor for accessories and fans, so now i dont need to move the AC pump back. Big win.
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    Got a LN65 SFA power steering box as the RN85 IFS one i got does not suit without lots of work.
    Wideband O2 sensor turned up, and a 2mm metal head gasket for the 7m. Fuel pump still MIA. The rest of my gearbox rebuild parts arrived too and it looks like all the internal changes i have planned there should work which is good.
    Have been back and forth to the hose joint all week trying to sort out all the oil/water/fuel plumbing fittings and it hurts to sit down now but im most of the way through it at least.

    Got the electric water pump sitting where i want it and the bottom radiator hose sorted (still need to get the hardline side of it tig'd up by a mate and radiator outlets moved to suit).
    Need to make a fitting off the head for the top hose still.
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    Heater plumbing is mainly sorted, only thing left to work out is how to run the heater return from the core neatly into the bottom hose. Made up a little manifold at the back of the head to hold the temp sensors for the ecu and EWP controller.

    Mounted the oil cooler as well. Purposely mounted out of direct airflow as it will get a fan that only comes on when oil temp exceeds 90 degrees so i only get cooling when needed and dont run the oil too cold. My oil plumbing is complicated enough without running a thermostat and bypass circuit as well so this seemed like a better option.
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    Some time ago i made up a custom bulkhead fitting to get more oil flow out of the pump, instead of crossing over inside the engine and using the (small) galleries in the block this takes oil directly out of the pump and through the sump on a AN-12 fitting, into the cooler, then filter, then back straight into the main oil gallery with -12 lines all the way. Anywho i finally finished it off and modded the sump to suit which allowed me to make the line to the cooler, then cooler to filters. Only oil line left to make is filter back to engine. This little mod (along with other oil mods internally) gives me about twice the flow of the stock oil system.
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    Got the head all assembled with the new (smaller) cams and valve clearances all set. Ended up changing the exhaust valves over that i had in as they worked better with the new cams but are still a 1mm oversize on stock. The smaller cams/valves and less compression are aimed at making it a bit torquier down low and more off road friendly. Ive dropped it down to 12.4:1 CR and the cams have 268 degrees of adv duration and 8mm of lift. Ive used this profile in several 7Ms in the past and it is a really nice balance of low end torque and still making good power up top. As such ill lower the redline from a planned 9000rpm to the low 8000's.
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    I also made up a plate to cover up the hole in the floor created by the new longer gearbox which is relieved underneath to take the stock rubber piece. Not overly happy with the look of it in the car to be honest but itll do for now.
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    I think thats about it for this week's progress. Will keep slogging away at the plumbing today but then im away for a week so things will be all quiet on the eastern front til i get back.
     
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  13. Christopher Edge

    Christopher Edge New Member

    Hey mate,
    Loving the build! I've got a bit of a soft spot for these motors as they're fitted to my favourite looking Supra model!

    Curious what the flow rate of the leccy water pump is? Can't help but think you're restricting your flow and introducing eddies/cavitation points with those hydraulic fittings.

    Just a bit of food for thought is all.
    :)
     
  14. typhoeus

    typhoeus Well-Known Member

    i'm loving what a milling machine makes possible!!
     
  15. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Thanks Chris, its a 115lt/min pump which is what Davies Craig specify for a 3-5lt engine. It comes outlet'd and threaded for AN-16 fittings which is what ive used. Unfortunately Speedflow type fittings weren't available in the configuaration i needed past AN-12 so i had to go for the hydraulic ones although im not particularly keen on them either. I plan to make my own fancy billet ones eventually but for now im really trying to just get the thing running rather than make more jobs for myself. Im pretty sure the ones i got will flow enough for now, considering they suit the outlet size of the pump.

    Yes the mk3 is the nicest looking of them all and i prefer the sound and torque of a 7m over a JZ myself. 7m's get a bad rep but they are pretty stout when put together properly.

    The mill is indeed a handy thing to have ;)
     
  16. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Well after a week in Darwin and a week catching up on work not too much has been happening on the old girl.
    I did receive a fuel pump and the remaining gearbox parts in the mail so hope to build the box sometime this week.
    Made up the 1 remaining oil line from the filter back into the main oil gallery.
    Sorted out some water/heater lines at the back of the head.
    Bought and installed some WRX front seats. Started to remove some of the aftermarket crappy stereo bits.
    Cut up the instrument cluster to fit my gauges and a tacho that actually goes over 6000 rpm :)
    The water temp gauge will actually be oil temp, water temp is displayed on the EWP controller.

    Im pretty snowed under with paying work at the moment some progress might slow a little, hopefully not too much.
     
  17. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Alright long time no update, been flat out with work so havent had much time to work on the car and even less to post about it. However ive been getting a few jobs ticked off the list.
    Please excuse the picture bomb all at once

    Firstly -old business, the modified cluster and new seats
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  18. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    First order of new business was to assemble the gearbox. New Toyota genuine bearings, seals and syncros throughout. Marlin Crawler thrust washer, bearing retainer, shift fork and shifter bushes/seats. Longer input shaft and taller 5th gear from a Dyna truck gearbox. This drops the final drive from 0.83 to 0.69 bringing the 100km/h down to 2200rpm on 31s with my 4.88 diffs while still giving nice low gearing in the other 4.

    A rather expensive pile of parts:
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    A rather daunting pile of parts:
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    Starting to come together with the help of a BFH
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    Into the intermediate plate they go
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    Shiny new 5th gear
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    Shifter gizmos installed
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    All buttoned up with cases
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    Last thing to do was setup the concentric slave cylinder spacers and lines etc
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    Quick peek up its skirt, new heavy duty clutch was balanced with the flywheel
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    And just a quick vid of all the gears turning and f*cking with my eyes!!
    [video=youtube;Zm5qPYzXG4w]
     
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  19. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Next job was to finish off the engine. Ive found pics of me starting work on it in 2013 so definitely a drawn out build. Thats what happens when you lose interest and mothball it for a while i guess. Regardless, im bloody stoked to have it all together finally.

    Finished off the alternator relocation and mechanical water pump delete, sorted out some more plumbing then gave it all a real good bath to clean everything out from sitting.

    One last look at those pretty pistons before the head went on
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    Head on and torqued, cams getting dialled in
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    Oil pump primed, pickup fitted and installed in block. Bulkhead fitting all lined up and ready to go. One last peek inside the bottom end
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    Long motor done!! Woo hoo!!!
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    Meanwhile my mate who is handy with the welder cleverly suggested that with a bit of cut and pasting we could have the intake manifold a whole lot nicer. I wanted the ACIS variable intake manifold but didnt want it crossing over the engine and putting the airbox on the hot side. So we cut it and he shut it and i ground it and ground it and sanded it and finally we have a nice way to use up all that spare space that was left in the engine bay.
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    Running out of room for an airbox pretty quickly and im gonna need a MAF to keep the engineer man happy so found a smaller one that might actually give me just enough room.
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    Manifold all cleaned up and dummy mounted on the motor
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    One of the last jobs was making the mounting plate for the coil on plug conversion using BA XR6 coils
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    All done i cant bloody believe it
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    Unfortunately i had to remove a lot of the shiny billet parts i had made for it but they will all slowly make their way back on once ive got it all rego'd and legit.
     
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  20. Andrew_LN65

    Andrew_LN65 Member

    Engine specs:
    7m-ge 3000cc 24 valve I6
    12.4:1 compression ratio
    268 degree cams
    8500rpm redline
    Block decked then torque plated bored and honed
    Custom 84mm forged flat top pistons by Carrillo with oversize valve reliefs. Teflon coated skirts, ceramic coated crowns
    1/4" wall tool steel wrist pins
    Eagle rods
    7m full counterweight crank ground and polished
    Fully balanced and blueprinted
    ARP head studs, main studs, rod bolts, flywheel bolts, head stud insert washers
    Higher volume turbo oil pump, shimmed relief valve, ported outlet and custom pickup
    Custom bulkhead fitting from oil pump outlet directly out of sump
    AN-12 oil lines everywhere, twin filters, 50mm thick oil cooler
    Needle bearing oil pump shaft retention plate on the front and ball bearing on the rear
    Winged, baffled and trap door'd sump
    Cometic head gasket
    Head heavily CNC ported
    Oversized valves
    Heavy duty valve springs
    Various coolant mods in head
    ARP inserts to stop crush around the head studs
    Adjustable cam gears
    Turbo CPS rebuilt and modified to 24-1 trigger
    Mechanical water and power steering pumps deleted and alternator relocated
    Billet fitting for head water outlet/thermostat housing (still coming)
    Hurricane headers into 2.5" exhaust
    Probably a heap of other things ive forgotten!!!
     

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