Lithium dual battery issue
- Thread starter mighty
- Start date
monk2
Active Member
I run a 300amp hour lithium in my van with DC to DC charger plus a 240volt 60 amp lithium battery charger set up cost a shit load but it works a treat then there is 350watts of solar on roof through the DC to DC charger so for touch wood not a problem all working pretty good, solar panels are only as good to where you park but even in the shade I still get a reasonable charge back to battery, wired it all up my self so I know what is done and how it is done no crimped connections all soldiered joints and then use of heat shrink the one with glue in side of it so it really seals up well been 2 years now with this setup and so far no hiccups touch wood
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monk2
Active Member
don't know did not count them just join solider and use shrink tube the one with clue in side of it so when it cools it is also water tite seal as a retired mechanic by trade and also got auto elec qualifaction as well plus trained and got me certificates on late modell car's 4x4 efi's, diesels,abs electronic auto's etc it is how I do my stuff it is how any body that wants to do it can do it solider joints are way better than just a crimped joint work better last longer and do not give high resistance joints over time even if I use spade terminals I still solider them join them and put heat shrink over them they are tight stay tight and no water gets in them
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monk2
Active Member
sorry mate this setup is in my van as in caravan and no joints in the wiring of my jayco van where soldiered I went through the lot of them from trailer plug back through soldiered the wires in the trailer plug then fitted them back in to there positions whick also included a upgrade to a 12 pin plug so I only have one plug to contend with, not a trailer plug then Anderson plugs for this and that all in one plug nice and neat
As for my cruiser any wiring work I do on it, that all gets soldiered and heat shrink tube used, pain if you want to change anything but done to stand the test of time and the same on any cars or 4X4s that I do any electrical work on may not be the cheapest around but at least they donot play up in or out of water,mud etc even in salt water no corrosion
As for my cruiser any wiring work I do on it, that all gets soldiered and heat shrink tube used, pain if you want to change anything but done to stand the test of time and the same on any cars or 4X4s that I do any electrical work on may not be the cheapest around but at least they donot play up in or out of water,mud etc even in salt water no corrosion
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monk2
Active Member
yes to both but it also required some new wiring to the DC to DC charger, this gets power from the cruiser alternator as I did not hook up the ignition wire on the DC to DC charger it kicks in when the voltage goes up from the alternator and runs from there engine stops and the DC to DC charger stops charging from the car no flat car batteries simple