Lithium dual battery issue

[mighty]

Hi,
Seeing if someone can help me in this issue.
I installed a dual battery with aux being a lithium po12v attached to a dc dc charger with setting for lithium/gel/agm/lead.
Battery and recharging worked fine. I checked how long battery takes to dry out with a fridge attached.
Once drained , all the aux system was down.
I check the battery while connected to the box with the anderson plug to the dc dc charger and read 1.6v(odd). Switch on the car and dc dc won’t charge and read 1.6v

i disconnected the battery from the box, checked and read 9.7v.

i put an agm and change settings the agm battery and dcdc work fine and dcdc is charging.
Any thoughts?
Cheers

 

[Keith B]

Maybe the BMS on the battery has shut it down. When my lithiums went flat (10.8 Volts) the supplier advised me to "tickle" them back to life. Start off with a little 400milliamp charger from Jaycar. When it gets to 12 volts put it on a small trickle charger and see if it comes back. But 9.7 Volts is not good for a lithium battery.
Keith

 

[CaptainBanana]

What brand lithium? They sometimes have a reset mode.

 

[mighty]

What brand lithium? They sometimes have a reset mode.

Solarkings

 

[Xerotao]

What type of dc to dc? I think redarcs bcdc chargers do not detect a battery if they are under a certain voltage

 

[Albynsw]

What type of dc to dc? I think redarcs bcdc chargers do not detect a battery if they are under a certain voltage

I think that might be the issue, you might need to get a bit of juice in it first so that the dc dc recognises it

 

[CTL]

Two suggestions. Try hooking up a solar panel to the lithium to get some charge into it. Secondly, have a look at your BMS and check its low voltage disconnect settings, or if it is a cheap lithium/BMS which doesn’t have a low voltage disconnect, invest in one to prevent this happening again.

 

[discomatt]

I had a similar issue due to leaving my van in touring mode with the cover over it instead of storage mode, get a multi stage charger and try that or if that fails as well which it may , worked for me, or get a solar panel as mentioned.
I have a Redark in the van and it would not recognize the batteries due to the low voltage, I am not convinced lithiums are all they are cracked up to be except for the weight savings

 

[Lost1?]

You need to find a dedicated 240V lithium charger that can recover a lithium battery. You don't want to be tipping in a constant charge if you have a dead cell in your battery.

Chances are there will be no issue. But you don't want to find out there is after the shed or car catches fire.

 

[unko84]

probably not the correct way to do it, I did a test just like you have, I had to jump start the bms. Started it form the main positive to lithium positive I had a amp meter on the charger it started to charge at 25amp straight away

 

[mighty]

I talked to solarkings and they told me that that model need to be a restart jumping or with dedicated charger. I told them about the voltage and were not concerned about it and said that it will happen if you dry out the battery. They were ok for me to keep testing and use it but if it fails they are happy to return it. A fridge with 4.6Amp usage has lasted me over 26 hours before battery went flat and it wasn’t fully charged(probably 60%) i have invested in a 200w ridge ryder solar panel with mptt to connect directly to the battery.

 

[Almostunseen]

Depending what fridge you have, you can set the Voltage Cutoff of the fridge a bit higher (They usually have a Lo, Med, and Hi setting), to stop the battery voltage dropping down low enough the BMS (Battery Management System) goes into "Cutoff Mode", which the SolarKings states should occur at 10.0V.
Depending what model lithium you have from them:

The CB series 100AH + batteries are auto reconnect and the LB series 100AH + batteries you need to disconnect the cables for 10 Seconds and then reconnect. )

If this becomes a re-occuring issue, you could trial a low voltage disconnect or VSR (Voltage sensitive relay) between your lithium battery and load.
This Kickass unit is good value ($60), and has a low cutoff (11.0V) which will allow good usage of the batteries SOC (State of Charge)

KickAss Quick Connect Low Voltage Disconnect LVD | KickAss

Protect your battery system from over discharge with a simple anderson plug Quick Connect Low Voltage Disconnect. Small device yet it saves a lot. Shop KickAss

www.australiandirect.com.au

There's also the Victron unit at $65 which has a default cutoff of 10.5V and can be programmed. This would be a better "built in" unit as it has the terminals compared to the andersons of the Kickass Unit, and 65A is plenty as you wouldn't want to pull that much through the lithium anyway (Although solarkings does state a max 100A draw! There is a 100A Victron unit). This unit also kicks back in at 12V compared to the 13V of the kickass.

Victron Energy Battery Protect 12/24V-65A - 5 Year Warranty | eBay

The BatteryProtect disconnects the battery from non essential loads before it is completely discharged (which would damage the battery) or before it has insufficient power left to crank the engine..

www.ebay.com.au

If that isn't low enough, there's the option of going for a programmable VSR such as an InterVolt unit, but that's starting to get $$$, and i'd more so be looking at investing in a new DCDC charger which is able to actually "wake" the battery - But the solar panel may be just the thing you need!

 

[shaun0]

Ive got dedicated 240v lithium charger but also when i didnt have any choice jumper leads off the starter straight to the lithium did the trick until the redarc could start charging it. Doesnt seem to have effected it.

 

[Bru9]

No proper setup should be causing the LV cutout, plain simple. It's just neglect, like having a flat starter, no excuse.

A bms that cuts out at 10V is a redflag, asking for trouble. Most good BMS should cutout at ~ 11.6V, my own external LV is set to about 12-12.2. once your batt gets down to 10-20% you have to plan...

I don't know the story because those voltages don't make sense, but as a general rule a cell can go down to no lower than 2.5V for a few days. That is after all how they bottom balance.

Talk of fires is just sad! Sure if you pour petrol on the battery & light it. That low is total utter neglect, even so it's debatable if they will even get hot let alone catch.

 

[Batts88]

probably not the correct way to do it, I did a test just like you have, I had to jump start the bms. Started it form the main positive to lithium positive I had a amp meter on the charger it started to charge at 25amp straight away

Old thread but help me to restart my lithium. It went to sleep recently, I remembered some talk on here about re starting them again. So I bypassed the DC DC charger, wired it straight up to the battery because the BMS I expect will look after the rest and it woke up straight away. So I started the car let it run for 10 minutes or so then turned it of reattached the wires correctly and then the fixed solar panel started recharging the battery how it should. I think the reason it shut down is I had the monitors settings incorrect because when it restarted it read 12.5v and 68% battery capacity it's a 170ah. I'm going to buy a 240v lithium charger now and do a full charge and reset the monitor.

 

[cam04]

Old thread but help me to restart my lithium. It went to sleep recently, I remembered some talk on here about re starting them again. So I bypassed the DC DC charger, wired it straight up to the battery because the BMS I expect will look after the rest and it woke up straight away. So I started the car let it run for 10 minutes or so then turned it of reattached the wires correctly and then the fixed solar panel started recharging the battery how it should. I think the reason it shut down is I had the monitors settings incorrect because when it restarted it read 12.5v and 68% battery capacity it's a 170ah. I'm going to buy a 240v lithium charger now and do a full charge and reset the monitor.

Most of the current dc chargers will have an automatic wake up mode for lithiums also. My renogy setup apparently does, I hope not to try it out.

 

[Batts88]

I was thinking of buying a Renogy charger because the battery is a Renogy but does it charge other types of batteries as well or just lithium ? I'd rather something that does other a range of different types.

 

[Albynsw]

I was thinking of buying a Renogy charger because the battery is a Renogy but does it charge other types of batteries as well or just lithium ? I'd rather something that does other a range of different types.

Will this solve the problem?

Lithium Battery Bypass Switch 12V iTECHBYPASS

12v Lithium battery bypass switch. The ITECHBYPASS Lithium battery bypass switch is used when a Lithium battery is used as a secondary battery. All lithium batteries that have over discharge protection will turn off (safe mode) when the voltage gets too low. During safe, no voltage is detected...

itechworld.com.au

 

[Batts88]

I might get a new charger so I can do a proper full recharge as I still only have a 4amp one from the mid 80's time to update. If I have issues in the future I'll keep in mind the iteh thanks for the suggestion Albynsw

 

[cam04]

I was thinking of buying a Renogy charger because the battery is a Renogy but does it charge other types of batteries as well or just lithium ? I'd rather something that does other a range of different types.

The renogy dc can be set to various chemistry batteries.