Lithium battery dilemma

peterfermtech

Well-Known Member
OK. My interest has been piqued. What is the sub driver mounted in?

A bit(lot) of searching and I discovered the info. Very small enclosure 20 litre so probably on the overly damped side. There shouldn't be any doof doof.
 
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Albynsw

Well-Known Member
OK. My interest has been piqued. What is the sub driver mounted in?

A bit(lot) of searching and I discovered the info. Very small enclosure 20 litre so probably on the overly damped side. There shouldn't be any doof doof.

what so more of a dof dof or dooof dooof ?
 

peterfermtech

Well-Known Member
Yeah Sorry. I have had an interest in diy hifi since I was a kid and built my first speakers when I was 12. The last couple of builds have been transmission line design which can extend the low frequency range but require a fair bit of maths. Sadly there is only a justifiable need for so many speakers so my last build was about 6 years ago. Your sub piqued my curiosity about subs and their performance in a car.
This is my last build when under construction with the TL tuned to 23 Hz. At 130 litre for the woofer it is probably too big for a car.
 

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Albynsw

Well-Known Member
I built the sub enclosure on my last vehicle, I was advised what volume was required and went from there making it fit. I just went off the shelf this time
 

Komang

Active Member
I always make it ported much easier to adjust as long with few farrad cap and monoblock I will be happy
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
You blokes clearly take bush sounds way more seriously than me, I'm just an enthusiastic amateur in comparison. With the portable speakers I'm sure you know to stick them the the corner of a room or against a wall? The kid's boom I put at the rear of the ute canopy in a corner. The sound difference between that and on a table somewhere is remarkable. Same at home. I'm not sure I did myself any favours by showing the kids how to 'tune' their bedrooms though haha. To be fair, half their playlists are my music anyway so it could be much worse.
 
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Albynsw

Well-Known Member
Was speaking with Itechworld today to see when they will have their slimline batteries back in stock ( still 3-4 months away :( ). An interesting point to note with their batteries and not sure if the others do the same but the a/h they state is the usable capacity. I have set up my battery monitor allowing for a 80% safe discharge rate so 80 amps from my100a/h battery but he told me to use 100 capacity.

If this is the standard for all lithium batteries?

I also spoke with Enerdrive regarding connecting of dissimilar solar panels to a DC-DC and he said as long as they are all 12v rated panels just piggyback them all together and the unit will sort it out.
I have heard people say that the charge will be reduced to the smallest panel in the system but he confirmed that is not correct and only happens when you connect a 12 v with say a 48v panel
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Was speaking with Itechworld today to see when they will have their slimline batteries back in stock ( still 3-4 months away :( ).l
Does that mean they are waiting for the shipment to come in from China??

Just asking........
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
Was speaking with Itechworld today to see when they will have their slimline batteries back in stock ( still 3-4 months away :( ). An interesting point to note with their batteries and not sure if the others do the same but the a/h they state is the usable capacity. I have set up my battery monitor allowing for a 80% safe discharge rate so 80 amps from my100a/h battery but he told me to use 100 capacity.

If this is the standard for all lithium batteries?

I also spoke with Enerdrive regarding connecting of dissimilar solar panels to a DC-DC and he said as long as they are all 12v rated panels just piggyback them all together and the unit will sort it out.
I have heard people say that the charge will be reduced to the smallest panel in the system but he confirmed that is not correct and only happens when you connect a 12 v with say a 48v panel
From what I’ve read, fully discharging them is apparently no problem. The only thing that they don’t like is being stored fully charged apparently? I’m no authority but I don’t mind reading spec sheets etc.
 

shaun0

Well-Known Member
From what I’ve read, fully discharging them is apparently no problem. The only thing that they don’t like is being stored fully charged apparently? I’m no authority but I don’t mind reading spec sheets etc.
Ive discharged mine totally flat a few times. Not on purpose! But seems to not be affected and still ok after almost 4 years I think it is now. Its in the engine bay as well and at the time alot of people saying they shouldnt be in the engine bay but this one hasn't had any issues.
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
From what I’ve read, fully discharging them is apparently no problem. The only thing that they don’t like is being stored fully charged apparently? I’m no authority but I don’t mind reading spec sheets etc.

They told me that the usable capacity is 100ah and the battery is actually bigger than 100ah so you wouldn’t be fully discharging the battery if I work with 100ah
With my battery it says to store them with 80% charge and to check them monthly
 

Bru9

Active Member
All the tech doesn't mean much when accoustics are completely hampered in a vehicle. Why go in the great outdoors to listen to music???????? That I will never understand! Like these guys who watch tv and play on their phones.

Anyway, individual solar panels which are almost always 36 cells in series should have a min of two internal bypass diodes to be safe in shaded situations, more diodes means more output when shaded but they try to get away with as little as possible because this is weekend warrior territory. Good roof mounted panels usually have 4-8 albiet usually higher voltage (more cells in series per individual panel). 2 diodes and heavy shading may still degrade these cheapo panels overtime, but my guess is after the warranty, the have alot of flexibility as many can't easily recognize a panel that is not right. None have int blocking diodes because such things are not really needed and would add to the costs. They can serve to stop other parrelled panels discharging into a sick panel. But in certain cases you might get some action, like one panel facing the very early morning sun, and the other facing the complete opposite dark sky, the darker panel may well have a low enough voltage.
If shade really is a problem, then best not buy a store brought package, as all those individual modules are in parallel themselves.

Fwwi, when you parallel multiply 12v lifepo4s , the junction containing the positives attains the same voltage across it, so they all act like a big battery with SoC equalizing, and the currents drawn will be shared equally (if cables are fairly balanced). The bms should have a temp cutoff on the switches but I doubt that much is being drawn.

On my lithium battery what I do is set "the floor" to around 12v under load (which is close for small loads and fairly large) when that point hits, my victron BMV reads 0% SoC, giving me a tiny reserve for house keeping. 15-20% SoC is my reserve tank. With my AGMs I use to take them to 80% DoD to get my money's worth on such heavy weight (two 120's).
 

unko84

Well-Known Member
this is what Ive done for my battery setup, my battery isolator solar I have it for the portable solar as most Isolators only can charge from solar or alternator at 1 time. I use a separate solar charger as it can work in with the car running or not, my solar is hard mounted to roof, so with the car running i can get an extra 7 amps avg. on top of the Isolator while driving

hopefully makes sense
 
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