Lithium battery dilemma

boobook

Well-Known Member
So your blanket will only output at the fixed panel’s specs if connected in parallel.
Very unusual if panels these days don’t have inbuilt diodes to stop feedback from the battery.

Are you referring to Bypass diodes perhaps? These are on every panel and designed to bypass a panel when they are in series but shaded, the usual configuration for houses.

I am referring to Blocking diodes, I have never seen these inbuilt. These would have to be added to stop shaded parallel panels from acting as a load and possibly overheating. They were used in the old days or when you directly connect a panel to the battery without a regulator. That hardly every happens these days. But they are also used when panels are in parallel for the same reason - to stop the panels using power.

My advice is to put the panels in parallel but includes schotley diodes in series with each panel. You can get 20A ones at Jaycar for about $3 each. I would not recommend putting panels in parallel without the additional blocking diodes.
 
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peterfermtech

Well-Known Member
I'm sure the only person that incorporated a wobble board into a recording was Rolf Harris. Don't know why you would want to add that sound to your music.
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
I'm sure the only person that incorporated a wobble board into a recording was Rolf Harris. Don't know why you would want to add that sound to your music.

I like to hear the full range of a recorded song including the drums and base guitar
All high end sound systems include a sub
 

peterfermtech

Well-Known Member
I like to hear the full range of a recorded song including the drums and base guitar
All high end sound systems include a sub
Nothing wrong with subs. They just need to be tuned (dampened) which is very hard to do in a vehicle. Just like your suspension if you don't have enough dampening the cone will continue to move back and forth which is why they have that doof doof sound rather than a thump thump.
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with subs. They just need to be tuned (dampened) which is very hard to do in a vehicle. Just like your suspension if you don't have enough dampening the cone will continue to move back and forth which is why they have that doof doof sound rather than a thump thump.

I did over doof the spec with this one but overall happy with the system
I fitted twin 7 inch in my previous ute but this one fitted better
 

discomatt

Well-Known Member
Once you have had a quality sub and amp anything else is second rate and painful, 17 speakers including sub in the tourour and it makes the km just disappear if you enjoy your tunes
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
Once you have had a quality sub and amp anything else is second rate and painful, 17 speakers including sub in the tourour and it makes the km just disappear if you enjoy your tunes

We listen to a lot of music so a good system is an important addition to us.
 

boobook

Well-Known Member
Having a nice sound system in the car is one thing and important, but it won't deliver good sound quality when you are camping which is very different.

Normal class AB amplifiers are found in cars and most caravans etc. They need a minimum of 13.8V or they distort awfully below that. They are great when the alternator is going but anyone into music who has listened when there is no charging will notice that the battery drains quickly and the sound gets distorted after about 1 hour ( that is if your car doesn't automatically turn off after 1 hour like mine. Also Subs are ok if left in the car but the mid range and high range on the vehcle are just a muffled mess even with the doors open when you are 10m away. Well IMHO anyway.
Low frequencies travel, but high frequencies are directional. Leaving doors open will be like a mono muffled version of the songs. The low notes will come through fine though.

If you're into good music at the camp site, you need to buy a class D amplifier and mid speakers that are outdoors to avoid distortion and high current drain. Lithiums help too. Class D use about half the power of AB and can work down to about 11V with much less distortion than a class AB amp when the batteries are not charging.

The distortion gets unbearable after about 1 hour when camping for me. I had enough even with expensive amps and set up and got a Nakamichi Class D, sub woofer and speakers that are movable. It's chalk and cheese for around the camp site. ( and I camp literally miles from anyone else. ) I highly reccomend a class D amp if you enjoy music when camped up.
 
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boobook

Well-Known Member
I only ever use the car sound system when driving and revert to a Bluetooth speaker around the campsite
Cheers do you have reccomendation for one. I have a Sonos Move, but it loses all the Bass when outdoors :-(. I'd love to find something decent.
 

discomatt

Well-Known Member
Cheers do you have reccomendation for one. I have a Sonos Move, but it loses all the Bass when outdoors :-(. I'd love to find something decent.
We have found Bose is more than adequate, we only have very quiet back ground music at camp unless it’s the odd occasion we are playing up, most of the time it’s the sweet sound of nature
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
Cheers do you have reccomendation for one. I have a Sonos Move, but it loses all the Bass when outdoors :-(. I'd love to find something decent.

We use the Ultimate Ears Boom 3. I chose that one as it reviewed well for sound quality but it’s also compact size and waterproof makes it a good robust camp speaker
The sound quality is good enough to enjoy some tunes but still far short of a hi end system.
 

Triton14

Well-Known Member
Cheers do you have reccomendation for one. I have a Sonos Move, but it loses all the Bass when outdoors :-(. I'd love to find something decent.
Thats a $600+ speaker & its not good enough :oops:

I havent listened to a move but I have 2 one's, a play 5 & a play base in my 1 BDR apartment lounge room.....................................love the Sonos :)

 

boobook

Well-Known Member
Thats a $600+ speaker & its not good enough :oops:

I havent listened to a move but I have 2 one's, a play 5 & a play base in my 1 BDR apartment lounge room.....................................love the Sonos :)



LOL I know right? I have a couple of 1's a 5 too. The Move is a tiny bit better than the 1. But take your 1 outdoors and see what happens to the bass. You need to move a lot of air to get bass outdoors.

It is ok, and from my research as good as you can get in that category except the B&O. But I guess I spoiled myself with my camper setup. I HATE distortion I'm OCD about it when its audible, and all those small portable units lose bass outdoors and have distortion at medium volumes. I specifically got the unit to replace my camper set up for ease of set up, but next to it sounds tinny. Those portable units have 3 to 4" speaker so Physics I guess. They sound ok till you hear them next to something decent. It's not about volume, it's about balanced sound with good range.
 

peterfermtech

Well-Known Member
Gotta laugh at you guys. You want a HiFi system inside your space confined, acoustically scrambled, rattly old diesel and then when you pull up to camp and outside you switch to a bluetooth (read lowfi) system.
If you're into good music at the camp site, you need to buy a class D amplifier and mid speakers that are outdoors to avoid distortion and high current drain
Agree about class D amps. I have a number around the house and I mostly use an I.AM.D V200 instead of my valve amp for listening as in some ways it out does the valve amp. Although none of my class D amps use 12V. The I.AM.D uses 36V and the others 20-30V.
I have a Sonos Move, but it loses all the Bass when outdoors :-(. I'd love to find something decent.
Most of those speakers are made for bookshelf use and the bass depends on the shelf and wall for reinforcement. Bass is omnidirectional so you are probably loosing it out the back of the speaker. Try using your vehicle like a wall and putting the speaker on a table.

Edit bass is omnidirectional not unidirectional
 
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