Lift kit options 2018 hilux

Mrn80

New Member
Hey guys,
I’m new to this whole 4wd modifications, I want some advice on a 2” lift kit.
I have a 2018 rugged x (rear leaf). I’ve had mixed opinions on tough dog and old man emu but want to hear people’s opinion. I don’t carry any rear load as of yet, front set up is the stock bull bar that comes from factory! I also want to know if it’s required to upgrade my upper control arms. I’m based in Sydney and would also like people’s opinions or recommendations for installers !
 

Bomber2012

Well-Known Member
Speak to Ultimate suspension
edit : had a brain fade it was Ultimate suspension that did my lift o_O
 
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Triton14

Well-Known Member
If your in Sydney then call The Ultimate Suspension.

I havent used them but do intend to when I do my upgrade.
I have heard many good stories about them & not anything negatine.


They are in Ingleburn.
 

2luxes

Well-Known Member
In addition to Ultimate, have a talk to Heasman Suspension and Steering in Sydney. They have been modifying suspensions on everything from truck's to sedans to 4wds to new Ferraries since the mid 1950s.

When you modify a suspension for the bush, you will get the performance that you want in the bush but it will come with a reduction in street handling. Knowing what the changes on the street are can considerably reduce your chances of getting into an accident, particularly at highway speeds.

The control arms that you mentioned are a good example of how handling characteristics can be changed. Both arms swing the ball joints around in a circle as they rise and fall on undulating road surfaces. The arms are always different lengths so the ball joints move up and down in different diameter circles. That changes the angle of the spindle that the wheel is attached to in order to keep it as upright as possible to give the tyre on the outside of a corner as much contact with the road as possible.

The easiest way to see what is happening to each ball joint is to look at a hand on a clock an imagine it is a car control arm with a ball joint on its end that points to 4 when the car is stationary. It swings up and down between 3 and 5 when the car is moving. A verticle line drawn through 3 and 5 indicates the distance the ball is moving from side to side.

You now give the car a 2 inch lift and the arm now points to 5 when stationary. Up and down movement is now is between 4 and 6. You now have a larger side to side movement.

The arms have to be different lengths. If they were the same, they would be moving the wheel sideways as they went up and down but the steering linkage would not be moving with it. This would create huge bump steer problems.

The end result is as the top and bottom ball joints move up and down on different length arms, they work together to move the wheel up and down in an oval shapped arc that keeps it as verticle as possible for most of its travel then turns it in slightly as it approaches the upper and lower limit.

This works well enough because cars rarely reach the upper and lower limits of their suspension travel on the street.

This geometry is thrown out when a lift has the arms hanging down at steeper angles and you can't fix it with a wheel alingnment.

The only way to correct this with a lifted or lowered car is to relocate the inner pivots of the control arms.
 

Mrn80

New Member
Thanks everyone for the useful information and recommendations really gave me a better understanding !
 
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