K-Seal Causing Damage?

HollyKate

Member
Hi everyone,

Has anyone had any experience using K-Seal?

My mechanic put K-Seal in my cooling system as my car had a leak from a seal behind the engine. It would cost thousands to take out the engine just to replace a seal, so they put this in there to plug it up.

I have noticed since taking my car back that my car struggles to get up to a good temperature for driving. Everytime I stop at lights/to turn, the temperature drops suddenly back to stone cold. I've driven this car for 12.5 years nearly everyday.

When I drive her (since taking her back from the mech) for over 20-30 minutes at a time, I swear I smell the radiator overheating smell (that classic smell) even though the car is saying she's at a good temperature.

I am a bit concerned this K-Seal stuff has blocked something, although all the product information states it would never block anything incorrectly but only an actual leak. I've rang three other mechanics who state they would never use it as coolant sealants (not stating specific K-Seal brand though) are known to block other things and cause 'all sorts of damage'.

My actual mechanic insists this is not true and has used it in his own car for many years and it's fine.

I do not believe my normal mechanics are malevolent and have been seeing them for approximately 4 years with good results. However, they have been urging me strongly to move this car on (due to her age and kms) so I hope they have not done something out of lack of consideration given these factors.

The reason for putting her into the mechanic in the first place was to have her cooling system checked as I did a 1000km + trip about 3 weeks ago and her temperature gauge told me she was overheating as soon as I pulled off the highway. As soon as I touched the accelerator, even if I was only going about 5-10km per hour just inching out back onto the highway, her temperature gauge told me she was back down in the normal temp range. Not once did she smell like she was anywhere near overheating. However, I did not notice her fan come on whilst travelling on the highway like I usually notice not once during that entire trip.

I kept the heater on and blasting away at me and did not stop for long if I did except once finally at the right destination, just as a precaution. I, my dad, and my usual said mechanic all thought there was some sort of sensor issue (temperature gauge, thermostat, water flow not kicking in when at a stand still etc) going on. I should say (aiming to not make this a long one but there's always a backstory...) that over Easter weekend in April during a similar trip, I had a similar issue and the fan hub wheel thingy was discovered to not be turning on at stand still thus causing these symptoms, although is now working (after replacement in April promptly).

Any thoughts are much appreciated, thank you greatly.
 

Swaggie

Moderator
I don’t know about KSeal but have used Seawell Blocks in the past and they have been excellent…. Wouldn’t use anything else t.b.h and carry a spare, Although my Heater Core and Radiator have been replaced recently…

Maybe it’s messed with your thermostat..

Surely they’ve felt the radiator once at temp (or even flushed it) and checked the quality of the coolant…
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
Temp dropping below normal sounds like a thermostat jammed open.
'Behind the engine' - sounds like a heater core or supply line, also due to the fact you can smell it in the cab.
I don't know what brand of car you have but in many cases it is a viable option to simply delete/bypass the whole heater system, at least in the short term until you can sort out proper repairs, or if you live on the equator - permanently.
 
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stevemc181

Well-Known Member
First thing I’d be checking is the temperature gauge and getting one that tells the actual temp. OEM ones are notoriously unreliable.
What make and model is the vehicle? I’d stop driving it until you can get a proper diagnosis. Overheating it can do a lot of damage in a short space of time.
 

discomatt

Well-Known Member
I never use sealants like that unless it’s am emergency with no other option
Check the bits others have mentioned, I would replace the water pump and thermostat as a starting point along with removing the radiator and getting it rodded and checked
Also whack the function of the cooling fans but I would assume the mechanic has done all these things before adding ant chemicals , despite what some say they are not good for any cooling system in the long term
 

Petunia

Well-Known Member
my car had a leak from a seal behind the engine.
Welch plug

It would cost thousands to take out the engine just to replace a seal
Drop the gearbox off, jamb a brass one in. Less work in a workshop with a hoist to drop the gearbox, than pull the injun out? no?

the car had half a mill onit when you ''dunna'' diff
if its done a squelch plug, steel rusts, original squelch plugs are steel, chances are the whole cooling system is up for renewal, water pumps have steel fins, steel rusts, even under water, thermostats dont last forever, opening closing, deep pends on when it was last changed as to wether it is one that fails in the open position or closed?
Brass radiators, tanks seem last forever, copper fins don't, temp senders are variable earthing devices, not infallible.

My 'hero' Turbo the trucker on outback truckers [COUGH] stuck eggs in his radiator for a leak, I've used pepper in old fergie once sucksesfully before not even cement was good enough for that hole. So I for one am not worried about ''additives'' good old bars leaks never gummed up no ones system in brass cast iron and copper days. Alloy and plastic? bleauch, vomit, patooee ...

No crickets were harmed in the posting of said blurb. :cool:
 

HollyKate

Member
I don’t know about KSeal but have used Seawell Blocks in the past and they have been excellent…. Wouldn’t use anything else t.b.h and carry a spare, Although my Heater Core and Radiator have been replaced recently…

Maybe it’s messed with your thermostat..

Surely they’ve felt the radiator once at temp (or even flushed it) and checked the quality of the coolant…
thanks Swaggie, not sure if they checked the quality of the coolant, but have heard you should not put the additive in the system unless the coolant is clean/new as all the other dirty particles will affect its effectiveness.
My first thoughts were thermostat, and then upon ringing a few mechanics they stated it's one of the smallest places water has to go through so if the particles will get trapped anywhere that is likely where.
The thing is, it was NOT overheating during everyday driving and not even when I drove 100 km. Only when I went past about 200 km did that original issue (only once I pulled over) begin, then would instantly go away once I began to accelerate again. There was never any over heating smell even when it stated it was too hot.

Then POST k-seal, my temp gauge is acting differently now during every day driving around town saying it's too cold. I believe this is truly reflective of the engine temp as when it states this, I can hear my engine struggling to keep up revs. However, after 20-30 mins of driving (engine finds it easier to stay at normal temp at this point) that is when I smell the 'too hot' smell, not really strongly but only mildly, but temp gauge says it's ok.
 

HollyKate

Member
Temp dropping below normal sounds like a thermostat jammed open.
'Behind the engine' - sounds like a heater core or supply line, also due to the fact you can smell it in the cab.
I don't know what brand of car you have but in many cases it is a viable option to simply delete/bypass the whole heater system, at least in the short term until you can sort out proper repairs, or if you live on the equator - permanently.
thank you
 

HollyKate

Member
First thing I’d be checking is the temperature gauge and getting one that tells the actual temp. OEM ones are notoriously unreliable.
What make and model is the vehicle? I’d stop driving it until you can get a proper diagnosis. Overheating it can do a lot of damage in a short space of time.
it is a 95 petrol hilux. I have stopped driving it now. That's a good idea to get an independent temp gauge.
 

HollyKate

Member
I never use sealants like that unless it’s am emergency with no other option
Check the bits others have mentioned, I would replace the water pump and thermostat as a starting point along with removing the radiator and getting it rodded and checked
Also whack the function of the cooling fans but I would assume the mechanic has done all these things before adding ant chemicals , despite what some say they are not good for any cooling system in the long term
yes I'm annoyed it's been added to my system, I never would have picked this if I had the choice. I insisted on them telling me what the problem was before doing anything yet they went ahead with doing this without asking me. Thanks for the tips.
 

HollyKate

Member
Welch plug


Drop the gearbox off, jamb a brass one in. Less work in a workshop with a hoist to drop the gearbox, than pull the injun out? no?

the car had half a mill onit when you ''dunna'' diff
if its done a squelch plug, steel rusts, original squelch plugs are steel, chances are the whole cooling system is up for renewal, water pumps have steel fins, steel rusts, even under water, thermostats dont last forever, opening closing, deep pends on when it was last changed as to wether it is one that fails in the open position or closed?
Brass radiators, tanks seem last forever, copper fins don't, temp senders are variable earthing devices, not infallible.

My 'hero' Turbo the trucker on outback truckers [COUGH] stuck eggs in his radiator for a leak, I've used pepper in old fergie once sucksesfully before not even cement was good enough for that hole. So I for one am not worried about ''additives'' good old bars leaks never gummed up no ones system in brass cast iron and copper days. Alloy and plastic? bleauch, vomit, patooee ...

No crickets were harmed in the posting of said blurb. :cool:
Thanks - that's interesting you say drop the gear box off. I JUST had my gear box off so the clutch could be fixed I believe just weeks ago and so they could have done this then. I didn't know you could get to it that way.

It is a 95 hilux dx model, done 406,000km.
I did see a video on sealants and the guy mentioned pepper can be added to seal these things up temporarily too.

The radiator was replaced with a metal one, not sure what type, about 30,000 km / 4 years ago. Water pump was done in that time frame also approximately.
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
Thanks - that's interesting you say drop the gear box off. I JUST had my gear box off so the clutch could be fixed I believe just weeks ago and so they could have done this then. I didn't know you could get to it that way.

It is a 95 hilux dx model, done 406,000km.
I did see a video on sealants and the guy mentioned pepper can be added to seal these things up temporarily too.

The radiator was replaced with a metal one, not sure what type, about 30,000 km / 4 years ago. Water pump was done in that time frame also approximately.
For future reference, it is the fine black table pepper that you want to keep in the glovebox. I put a fan into a hilux radiator and badly damaged half a dozen cores. Pepper got me sealed up and moving and I towed a camper in sand for a few days after that to get to help. It lasts quite a long time by all accounts.
 

HollyKate

Member
For future reference, it is the fine black table pepper that you want to keep in the glovebox. I put a fan into a hilux radiator and badly damaged half a dozen cores. Pepper got me sealed up and moving and I towed a camper in sand for a few days after that to get to help. It lasts quite a long time by all accounts.
wow towing a camper in sand with a leak stuffed with pepper - that's an inspiring story thank you for the tip, ill definitely get the fine black pepper on the next grocery run thank you
 

HollyKate

Member
For future reference, it is the fine black table pepper that you want to keep in the glovebox. I put a fan into a hilux radiator and badly damaged half a dozen cores. Pepper got me sealed up and moving and I towed a camper in sand for a few days after that to get to help. It lasts quite a long time by all accounts.
So do you reckon it's likely with my make/model you can access this seal from underneath by taking the gear box out etc?
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
So do you reckon it's likely with my make/model you can access this seal from underneath by taking the gear box out etc?
Nobody here actually knows what is leaking. Will need to know what it is first, and what engine your hilux has.
 

typhoeus

Well-Known Member
it is a 95 petrol hilux. I have stopped driving it now. That's a good idea to get an independent temp gauge.
So is it a 2.7 litre 3rzfe engine or earlier 22r ? The 3rzfe had a bad habit of corroding the heads if run without proper coolant ( water , or old coolant) for long periods.
 

typhoeus

Well-Known Member
There are 6 welsh plugs in the block, as per these pics, 1 is behind the flywheel, and that's the most difficult to access.
 

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HollyKate

Member
There are 6 welsh plugs in the block, as per these pics, 1 is behind the flywheel, and that's the most difficult to access.
thanks heaps for that, so that would require the engine out to access or could be accessed by removing the gearbox also from underneath or not?
 

2luxes

Well-Known Member
, so that would require the engine out to access or could be accessed by removing the gearbox also from underneath or not?
Taking the gearbox, clutch and flywheel out would be the easiest but what about the other five welsh plugs in the engine? Do you know their history? They may be getting close to leaking, particularly if they are the originals.

Whatever you do use genuine Toyota plugs. There are a lot of cheap ones on the market that may not be up to the same standard.

If Toyota installed them with a sealer then use it if they are still selling it.
 
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