how to stop rust while working
- Thread starter Deccas
- Start date
I like to use this on spots of surface rust. Just sand any loose stuff off, clean, then a quick spray. Car is slowly going from maroon to black 
But you can paint over it with any colour of your liking
https://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-350g-rust-reformer_p1580551
But you can paint over it with any colour of your likinghttps://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-350g-rust-reformer_p1580551
PhillT
New Member
Tray backs are usually a well used item, so are going to get chipped & scratched all the time.
The best solution is an Ali tray, however, if you are sticking to steel, and you intend to use the tray, it will get paint damage along the way, so the easiest solution I found was to paint it with something that looks OK and can be touched up easily and quickly.
For me that was Kill Rust (Wattyl) which is available in quite a few colours, paint-on and spray cans.
If you touch up over a little surface rust, it seems to neutralise is and last well. I prefer the brush-on because I recon it adheres better. It doesn't leave brush marks if you pick you weather (not too hot) and apply it carefully.
Now in answer to your question, look at what the sand blasters do,....they blast then prime immediately, because the process of oxidation begins immediately.
Get all your repairs done first, then if you are wire brushing it, do a section at a time and prime it the same day (within an hour or two if it is wet or humid) with a really good metal primer.
My choice these days is White Knight Cold Galv. a bit dearer perhaps, but brilliant for stopping rust, and a good flat finish for the topcoat to go onto.
All the above is assuming you are going for oil based top coat.
If you want 2-pack or automotive paint, then the same process will give you good results, but the product will be very different. Etch primer then top coat, and the best of luck with the inevitable ongoing touch-ups ;-)
The best solution is an Ali tray, however, if you are sticking to steel, and you intend to use the tray, it will get paint damage along the way, so the easiest solution I found was to paint it with something that looks OK and can be touched up easily and quickly.
For me that was Kill Rust (Wattyl) which is available in quite a few colours, paint-on and spray cans.
If you touch up over a little surface rust, it seems to neutralise is and last well. I prefer the brush-on because I recon it adheres better. It doesn't leave brush marks if you pick you weather (not too hot) and apply it carefully.
Now in answer to your question, look at what the sand blasters do,....they blast then prime immediately, because the process of oxidation begins immediately.
Get all your repairs done first, then if you are wire brushing it, do a section at a time and prime it the same day (within an hour or two if it is wet or humid) with a really good metal primer.
My choice these days is White Knight Cold Galv. a bit dearer perhaps, but brilliant for stopping rust, and a good flat finish for the topcoat to go onto.
All the above is assuming you are going for oil based top coat.
If you want 2-pack or automotive paint, then the same process will give you good results, but the product will be very different. Etch primer then top coat, and the best of luck with the inevitable ongoing touch-ups ;-)