So I took it to my mechanic to get a safety check and had a couple little issues as far as I know. my rfw light keeps coming on at start up and was running bit rough in the morning only for about 5 seconds. That got fixed was 2 faulty glow plugs... but the rfw light he said your 4wd works ok and that it wasn't a big issue. But after doing some research I found the actuator and pin was engaged but when I turn the light off the pin dosent move... Will I be doing any damage to my drive train driving like this I know ill be using a bit more petrol too. How much??? Idk I don't want to spend cash at the mechanic if i don't have to. Can i do it myself??? And what else should I check
Hi guys... i just Bought a 2005 mazda bravo b2500 4x4... my first diesel and 4x4.
- Thread starter Nossy84
- Start date
Triton14
Well-Known Member
YES
All I know its its not good to have it running/engaged when on tarmac. Puts a lot of stress on the whole drivetrain so avoid it at all costs.
Hoyks
Well-Known Member
For those playing at home:
RFW=Remote Free Wheel (had to google that shit myself)
Was the motor running when you were playing with the actuator? Pretty sure that the actuators were/are all vacuum driven, so with the motor off the actuator probably won't do anything. It will also only move and lock everything only if everything is in alignment, so you might need to jack up one wheel and turn it a few degrees to get the splines to align.
Will it damage anything?
I don't know as I haven't played in that model and aren't familiat with the setup. If you don't have manual free wheeling hubs on the end of the axles and the remote free wheeling hub is engaged, then the front diff and drive shaft will be spinning giving a slightly different steering feel and lead to extra wear and slightly higher fuel consumption, all will be very minor though.
If it also has a 2H/4H/4L selector, then you can get away with it as in 2H the front will be turning, but won't be rigidly connected to the rear and the drive system will be happy enough.
If selecting the RFW also engages 4H, then you will most definitely do damage and get driveline wind up. Scrubbed tyres, twisted drive shafts, snapped CV's or a blown transfer case are all potential outcomes of driving around in 4x4 on had surfaces as you don't have a center differential to release the tension produced from the front and rear wheels following a different path around corners.
RFW=Remote Free Wheel (had to google that shit myself)
Was the motor running when you were playing with the actuator? Pretty sure that the actuators were/are all vacuum driven, so with the motor off the actuator probably won't do anything. It will also only move and lock everything only if everything is in alignment, so you might need to jack up one wheel and turn it a few degrees to get the splines to align.
Will it damage anything?
I don't know as I haven't played in that model and aren't familiat with the setup. If you don't have manual free wheeling hubs on the end of the axles and the remote free wheeling hub is engaged, then the front diff and drive shaft will be spinning giving a slightly different steering feel and lead to extra wear and slightly higher fuel consumption, all will be very minor though.
If it also has a 2H/4H/4L selector, then you can get away with it as in 2H the front will be turning, but won't be rigidly connected to the rear and the drive system will be happy enough.
If selecting the RFW also engages 4H, then you will most definitely do damage and get driveline wind up. Scrubbed tyres, twisted drive shafts, snapped CV's or a blown transfer case are all potential outcomes of driving around in 4x4 on had surfaces as you don't have a center differential to release the tension produced from the front and rear wheels following a different path around corners.