Fridge slide install in ute tub.

Billybob97

New Member
Hey fellas,

I have recently acquired a 60L Engel and a fridge slide from supacentre. Has anyone installed one directly into a ute tub?

I had a crack today but I had a few issues -
My ute tub has ridges so trying to fix the slide was difficult as the holes didn't line up with the high or low points of the ridges well. I also have a rhino lining in my tub which caused issues as I was attempting to use rivnuts/nutserts to fix the fridge slide. The liner caused issues because the nutserts weren't grabbing the steel of the tub but either grabbing the liner or just crushing on itself. I finally got a few good ones in but I'm not entirely happy. I now have a couple of useless holes in my tub that I need to bog up

I'm looking for some other suggestions of how to fix it that aren't so agricultural like mine and should I just bog up the useless holes with sika or get a rubber grommet or something.
Keen to hear everyone's suggestions and experience cheers
 

CTL

Well-Known Member
Perhaps you could use some flat gal steel or aluminium across the tub and bolt it to the high points of the tub ridges. Then bolt the slide to the flat steel.
I would touch up the used holes with a bit of cold gal paint (and also the holes being used for the hold down bolts) and get some rubber grommets from an auto parts store to fill the unused holes.
 

Billybob97

New Member
Thanks mate, I had thought of something similar by just getting a low profile C section folder up, reason for that is I don't think I'd be able to bolt through the flat bar - not enough height to get a nut underneath, potentially just use some thicker steel and just tap it - bolts would need to be awfully short though
 

CTL

Well-Known Member
Could you get the slide’s bolts lined up with the valleys in the tub floor? Could get a bolt and nut through the flat then.
 

dabbler

Active Member
My tub has a rubber matting with holes. Think it's called "ute matting" at Bunnings.

My slide is bolted on to 9mm ply or thereabouts and that ply runs across close to full width of the tub and a bit longer than the slide.

Initially I used the spare to weigh it down while I decided how much space to leave around the edges pls front/back and still be workable. After a few trips, I locked down the ply using vertical lengths of aluminium (stuff I had from old vertical blinds) and these are bolted to the ply and tub gunwales. Imagine an upside down table. The whole thing is removable with little effort.

It doesn't move on the roughest of corrugations or tracks. The weight of everything takes care of that. Hardest part is not filling in the gaps around the fridge.
 

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
It doesn't move on the roughest of corrugations or tracks. The weight of everything takes care of that. Hardest part is not filling in the gaps around the fridge.
I thought the same with connecting my canopy to my tray that the weight holds it down and the fixings were only needed to stop it sliding off the tray
I soon found out after a Simpson crossing that the weight becomes a pendulum of upward weight too when bouncing over dunes and it ripped the floor out of my tray at the mounting points
I have seen jerry cans thrown out of their holders and spare tyres sitting on the track from the upward motion throwing them out of the tray
The heavier the object the bigger the mounting points need to be
 

cam04

Well-Known Member
Sheet of ply fixed down to the ridges with wing teks- or riv nuts if you prefer but those liners don’t sit down square on the ridges as you found, you’ll need to drill a clearance hole in the liner and riv nut the tray - then screw/bolt the fridge slide to the ply. Ply will cover the dodgy holes you made too, just put a dab of sika in them.
 

Hoyks

Well-Known Member
I'd go with the ply bolted to the floor. The ply spreads the load over a greater area and reduces the risk of the rivnuts just holding a fridge slide down from cracking the floor and pulling through.
It also gives you a flat floor for putting other stuff in and sliding it around.
 

dabbler

Active Member
I thought the same with connecting my canopy to my tray that the weight holds it down and the fixings were only needed to stop it sliding off the tray
I soon found out after a Simpson crossing that the weight becomes a pendulum of upward weight too when bouncing over dunes and it ripped the floor out of my tray at the mounting points
I have seen jerry cans thrown out of their holders and spare tyres sitting on the track from the upward motion throwing them out of the tray
The heavier the object the bigger the mounting points need to be
The fridge won't move. It's strapped on the slide, the slide is bolted to a ply floor and that floor is bolted to the tub gunwales (upper walls). At 120+ kg with slide, fridge and contents, it's positioned almost totally over the axle as is the second spare and wood oven. The other things further back might bounce but the stuff right at the back is lighter and softer.

I understand what you mean though.
 

Lost1?

Well-Known Member
I drilled straight through the tub and used spread washers with a dob of silastic to bolt my fridge slide into my tray. Deburr the holes and dab a bit of cold gal paint on the bare metal as a means of preventing rust. I used 6 x M5 screws with nyloc nuts. Hasn't budged in 3 years. Despite my best efforts launching the ute across washouts on Fraser on my first trip.

Use a cordless drill. The slower rotating speed makes it easier to hold the drill in position when starting the hole.
 
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