Fitting a Provent 200 oil catch can

#81
SPV only supply the module to chip tuning and are not affiliated in any other way.

The module is great and I'd recommend getting one when it's available.
 
#82
Yes we will be keeping these modules in stock as we do for the Mitsu presently.

Work is also underway for the Toyota Hilux version of the EGR Module. I'll try to keep you up to date for these as well.

Cheers

BTW, for those that don't know, 3 things separate OUR brand from the fake Chinese "Provents"

The cheap chinese copies have vents that do not work. Our ones do and many (some on this site) are very happy with them.

We also sell them with TRIPLE the warranty of the original units.

They come with extra bits that save you from having to buy expensive reducers.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#83
..
Update.
Monitoring the catch cans performance more closely, finally got a decent little measuring cup.
This is the amount taken out after 2500km Adelaide to Brisbane . . .

image.jpeg

About 75ml, so between services, now do around the 10k max or before / after long hard trips (desert etc), that would be about 300ml between normal services kept out of turbo system, intake manifold (where it normally mixes with particulates from the EGR system).

Over my 108k now done in the Ranger, that would be about 3.3 LITRES (!!) removed.

Now have EGR delete module fitted, adjustable fuel control, no codes, fitted blank plate anyway, performing brilliantly :)

With the catch can fitted, the MAP was just getting a bit of loose soot on it from the EGR, instead of the tar like total coverage.
We'll see now after another 20k or so what keeping the soot out does for the MAP.
 

mauriceb

Well-Known Member
#84
..
Update.
Monitoring the catch cans performance more closely, finally got a decent little measuring cup.
This is the amount taken out after 2500km Adelaide to Brisbane . . .

View attachment 32633

About 75ml, so between services, now do around the 10k max or before / after long hard trips (desert etc), that would be about 300ml between normal services kept out of turbo system, intake manifold (where it normally mixes with particulates from the EGR system).

Over my 108k now done in the Ranger, that would be about 3.3 LITRES (!!) removed.

Now have EGR delete module fitted, adjustable fuel control, no codes, fitted blank plate anyway, performing brilliantly :)

With the catch can fitted, the MAP was just getting a bit of loose soot on it from the EGR, instead of the tar like total coverage.
We'll see now after another 20k or so what keeping the soot out does for the MAP.
Les, just to compare.Have the same measuring cup.Starting with new oil before our Geo trip in May, Gold Coast return @4800km i collected 30cc from my Provent with the 6 cy factory turbo motor on return when i drained it overnight
 

mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
#85
I really need to fit a catch can soon, after my recent mechanical issues the air intake system was apart and everything had a fair coating of oil.

Just no room left for a catch can other than over the turbo which I'm not too keen on (even though others have done it)
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#86
Les, just to compare.Have the same measuring cup.Starting with new oil before our Geo trip in May, Gold Coast return @4800km i collected 30cc from my Provent with the 6 cy factory turbo motor on return when i drained it overnight
30cc = 30mls, yeah ?
If so you don't vent much oil mist Joe.
Tell you what mate, with the egr fix, intake air temps down at least 50%, now sit on around 45 to 48 on highway or in traffic.

Oil is staying MUCH cleaner too !! :)

I really need to fit a catch can soon, after my recent mechanical issues the air intake system was apart and everything had a fair coating of oil.

Just no room left for a catch can other than over the turbo which I'm not too keen on (even though others have done it)
Was it just oily then Luke, as you have a little egr fix too ?

Too tight in there hey ?
Need reasonable access to remove top, clean filter etc too, plus don't want it too far out of the normal run as the mist has time to wet up too much maybe, too much piping and twists / turns would not be practical in that sense.

Can you move something else, like a windscreen washer bottle ?
 

mauriceb

Well-Known Member
#87
Thats a big drop in manifold intake temp compared to our last conversation Les when you reported 80 deg plus at aprox 30 deg ambient temp , Is that reading from the same Garmin Nuvi 0bd2 scan app ?
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#88
Yep, same post turbo temp, suspect this must be at manifold, can't see a sensor anywhere else.
Those temps have hit 100 in the past Joe, by usually around the 80 - 90 mark.
If there was a sensor somewhere closer to turbo it would still be an impressive drop.
The egr mapper has an led that glows either amber or green to indicate either when egr was normally open or closed, respectively.
It is amazing just how often that is amber.
 

mac_man_luke

Well-Known Member
#89
30cc = 30mls, yeah ?
Was it just oily then Luke, as you have a little egr fix too ?

Too tight in there hey ?
Need reasonable access to remove top, clean filter etc too, plus don't want it too far out of the normal run as the mist has time to wet up too much maybe, too much piping and twists / turns would not be practical in that sense.

Can you move something else, like a windscreen washer bottle ?
Yea only oily, no carbon.

Not anything really able to be moved.

I reckon ill either have to go over the turbo and just make a heat shield (in addition to the standard heat shield) - pretty straight forward as thats where the breather runs
or on the opposite side behind my secondary fuel filter but thats a bit tight and would add a bit of extra pipe work (but mostly after the separator)

then ill pull my intercooler and give it a clean i bet its filthy on the inside
 

GUnka

Well-Known Member
#91
It just depends what sort of catch can you fit as to how affected by heat from the turbo. Mine is a an alloy HPD one and does sit near/above the turbo but there is much other stuff that sits closer to the turbo than the catch can that is factory fitted and you would think may be more prone to heat damage from a hot turbo than a catch can even if was made of temp resistant plastic and not metal. As for oil coating things, I wouldn't be that worried about it affecting a MAP sensor as would be very rare for an oil coating to effect a pressure sensor, if it was covered in a hard crusty soot coating that would be a diff story. Definitely hot wire style MAF sensors don't like anything on them. I know a lot of people say running an oiled filter element can cause problems but having run oiled K&N filters on tuned V8's for many years I never had any MAF related issues. (I don't use an oiled style filter on my 4wd btw, more so due to the higher maint. of it when off road and easier just to carry a spare and be able to blow it out with an air gun)
 

Mr Rum

4x4 Earth Legend
#92
I fitted a Provent 200 a few months back after reading this thread among many others.
Great piece of kit in my opinion.

I do like being able to monitor the oil that's removed, however I'm probably going to look at running the collected oil directly back to the sump at some point.

I haven't actually measured it, but I have all the oil it's filtered out in a jar. If I was to have a guess, it's probably around 75ml from around 20000km of driving.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#93
Mr R, so really it won't make any difference plumbing to sump, blow by is negligible and wouldn't even register on your dipstick between services ?
As long as when serviced (10k ?) you ensure you or service fella drains it.
Of course plumbing back gives you peace of mind in never having to remember, but then you do lose the ability to watch the blow by over the life of the vehicle.
I have slightly more now from when I first fitted, so will go from 5w30 to 10w40 Pentite oil from next service . . . if I keep the Ranger that is, near 130k, but that's another story I have to work through myself.
 

Mr Rum

4x4 Earth Legend
#94
Of course plumbing back gives you peace of mind in never having to remember
That's the idea.
Create a closed system with the only maintenance needed being a new filter every 100000km.

I haven't worked out if it's even feasible yet. I'm not interested in adding any holes to the block/sump, so my options are severely limited.
If I do work something out, and decide to go ahead with it, I'll be sure to share whatever I come up with.
 

Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#95
I am pretty sure it's easy with some vehicles, Patrols for instance have a fairly easy way to install a one way valve for plumbing line to sump.
Not sure about Hilux or other.

I did a quick Google search > catch can plumb sump hilux < and had these links come up, but haven't read through . . .

http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=122274
http://chiptuning.com.au/provent-style-oil-separators/
http://www.pradopoint.com/archive/index.php/t-24606.html
http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11902&start=100 (site requires registration / login to read)
http://4x4earth.com/forum/index.php?threads/oil-catch-cans.22266/page-7
http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64527-catch-can-drain-to-sump/
 

Mr Rum

4x4 Earth Legend
#96
Cheers, I'll have a read.

EDIT: I recognise most of those threads from back when I was trying to work out how I was going to install the unit. Unfortunately there isn't really anything of use in amongst them. Thank you though.
 
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Les PK Ranger

4x4 Earth Contributer
#97
An update and longevity heads up . . .

I started noticing some moisture in my catch can a few months ago, really crappy in there on a return trip from QLD to SA.
Safety release vent was pouring out mist !
I'd probably left it a bit long not draining it after the trip up, but the moisture worried the hell out of me, was thinking I'd done a head gasket or cracked head.

Anyways, mech up there looked at my coolant, level stability when idling with cap off, nah, nothing wrong with your engine (phew !).
So we talked about the catch can and I asked him about filter, could it be restricted enough to stop flow of the oil mist and moisture from air intake ?

I'd had the original filter in for about 130k, washing it out with ULP maybe 6 - 8 times overall in that time, always seemed to be ok, but may have been too old to do the job properly.

Was worth a shot.
Got 2 new filters from Chip Tuning, replaced and problem has gone.

They are pricey, and you can get stailess washable ones on ebay for under $30, but I believe the paper ones do work better from what I've read on various threads on forums over the years.

So there ya go, maybe 100k is the magic number, may be better at say 75k, I have 2 now I can wash and exchange, keep spare in the drawer on big trips.
Should do me another 150k to 200k.
 

mauriceb

Well-Known Member
Yes . Nice tight fit like original. Aussie seller but appears shipdropped from China going by the freight lables . Beats me how the chinese items arrive from China a lot faster than local services.
 
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