Dual Subframe Lift! (suggestions/advice/relevant info)

underdog

Well-Known Member
So I've been wanting to do this for quite a while.. and thanks to the previous likelihood that I'd have to sell the car for financial reasons, the idea had been put on the backburner.. until now. I had originally posted a similar thread on an australian vehicle-specific forum and received 90% negative/pointless feedback, albeit with some small amounts of constructive criticism(mostly from "ToddyH" here, haha, thanks mate). Having been here (4x4earth) for a little while now, I've come to appreciate that most of you are open-minded and enjoy a reasonable challenge.

So I'm posting up this research/progress thread for the "body"/dual-subframe lift of my 2008 Nissan Xtrail. I'm aware of pretty much all the reasons not to go ahead with it, ranging from being impractical (reduced wheel travel/body roll/road manners) to legalities(illegal in Aus/engineers/roadworthy inspections), but feel free to go ahead and make your recommendations anyway, just be nice about it, yeah? ;) Who knows, maybe there'll be something I haven't heard before. I'll also be adding photos over the weekend to depict the areas being focused on and possible issues that will need to be addressed.

I will be focusing on the rear subframe first as it appears to be the easier of the two, and it will serve as practice for the more complex front end. Questions (and the sporadic return of my elusive/useless memory) will equate to details below being updated as they are revealed to be important/relevant or I remember them. I've probably forgotten a whole bunch of important stuff, so feel free to point out the obvious!

Relevant details:
-Car is full-time FWD, with the tailshaft leading to a wet-clutch "transfer case"/diff at the rear for 4WD.
-Suspension is entirely independent, front and rear; with rear being trailing arm.
-Rear diff is housed in the subframe(if memory serves me correctly) so cv's shouldn't be an issue.
-I currently have 35-40mm King Springs installed, although they've sagged to 20ish up front and 30 rear (with no barwork, bash plates, wheel carriers or an any added weight at all yet).
-Rear subframe houses the shock absorber and swaybar mounts.
-Brake lines look like they'll have enough slack, but that will depend on the size of the lift, so I'll need to revisit them later.
-Diff breathers and oil lines to the rear transfer case/diff are also lengthy enough between the subframe and the body to accommodate the lift.
-Bump stops in rear will need to be extended, as well as the top mount for the coils.
-Rear subframe has a total of four(4) bolts attaching it to the body, however, the foremost mount for the trailing arms requires another four(4) bolts per arm, and there is also a stabiliser/support rod/bracket(?) which goes up a little further, requiring another two(2) bolts of it's own. Im fairly certain I can just bend this, as it won't make a difference to the suspension.
 
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Toddyh

Well-Known Member
I read the other day about someone who did a 6" lift on a Pajero. Can't remember if it was an independent suspension Paj (monoque chassis) or older one with live rear axle (ladder chassis). Still probably worth googling because either way it would have had CVs on the front end.
 

underdog

Well-Known Member
I read the other day about someone who did a 6" lift on a Pajero. Can't remember if it was an independent suspension Paj (monoque chassis) or older one with live rear axle (ladder chassis). Still probably worth googling because either way it would have had CVs on the front end.

Found it, it's in the states. But the kit is actually sourced from Japan. It's like a mini-chassis replacement, adding a ladder-chassis style piece between the body and subframe. Pretty heavy duty stuff. But that's basically no different from the xtrail kits in japan, still no use to me here :( There's not a whole lot of info on the specifics of the kit, just prices and pictures, etc.
 

Toddyh

Well-Known Member
Bugger I thought it was here. Sorry mate I got nothing then. Have never seen or heard of a body lift done on a monocoque chassis (in this country at least).
 

underdog

Well-Known Member
Using body blocks or structural spacing to lower the subframe isn't too complicated, just time consuming to work through. The main problem I foresee is that unlike other dedicated 4wds, there's no "diff" for us to drop at the front end once lifted. Regardless, I'm going shopping for body blocks this weekend.
 

underdog

Well-Known Member
Would love to do it on mine but legalities get in the way :(

Nothing about anything I've done to the car so far (and am yet to do) is legal, haha.. in fact I narrowly avoided a defect notice yesterday for my tyres :O

Will be stopping in at bunnings on the way home, me thinks!
 

underdog

Well-Known Member
Bugger. They look pretty flush to me. That the reason for the trip to Bunnings?

After deciding to keep the car, I did quite a bit of maintenance/repair work, which involved removing the front and rear bumper and all fender flares. So everything is firm, tight and solidly mounted again. Maybe that's where I lost some tyre coverage now that my flares aren't loose, haha..
And yeah, cheap rubber bunnings flares. For now anyway.
 
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Gavo

4x4 Earth Contributer
Hmmm roll your xtrail and something with similar wheel base into my workshop. I'm thinking a Haflinger. I'll chop your xtrail body (with cup holders) off and bolt it to the halfinger chassis. Boom fully independent, fully diff locked xtrail. Hopefully you don't mind the engine in back reconfiguration.

Here's a chassis I've prepared for you.
eqema2y5.jpg


Oh forgot to mention you'll be only xtrail around with portal diffs too!
 
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underdog

Well-Known Member
Not bad, Gav, not bad at all. I had actually considered a donor chassis early on, but the two reasons I didn't like the idea were 1. the cost involved and 2. the fact that it would be quite a bit more 'obvious' than what I plan to do, which would draw attention to the legality issues (particularly as I'm still on my P's).

A+ for effort though, and for considering my precious cupholders too, mate ;)
 
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RoughNReady

Member
Hmmm roll your xtrail and something with similar wheel base into my workshop. I'm thinking a Haflinger. I'll chop your xtrail body (with cup holders) off and bolt it to the halfinger chassis. Boom fully independent, fully diff locked xtrail. Hopefully you don't mind the engine in back reconfiguration.

Here's a chassis I've prepared for you.
654319_eqema2y5.jpg


Oh forgot to mention you'll be only xtrail around with portal diffs too!


What am I looking at there. It looks like an early Porsche aircooled tinware. T2 reduction box swing "portal axles" and a whole lot of ???

Anyhow while I'm spending someone elses money there's u-joint half shafts with a thrust race made for sand rails.
Just the thing for getting extra angle and travel out of an independent setup.
Tell me if this link doesn't work.
High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875 - My Buildup
I've been shown similar before. The big optional heatsink is because of the heat generated by the thrust race.

I just realised it's similar in concept to the Niva's propshafts. They have the same thrust race setup. Well how about that.

I'm not questioning your motives or anything either. Your money, your project. Just do it properly for your sake.
 

underdog

Well-Known Member
Anyhow while I'm spending someone elses money there's u-joint half shafts with a thrust race made for sand rails.
Just the thing for getting extra angle and travel out of an independent setup.
Tell me if this link doesn't work.
High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875 - My Buildup

Quite a serious piece of gear! And not ridiculously expensive either (surprisingly). If I ever look at upgrading the suspension travel or turning my car into a competition leapfrog that might be the way to go. Don't know whether it'd be compatible with my standard drive-line though, haha. It's fun to dream(let's face it, we do it a lot), but I'd prefer the more realistic type of advice, thanks fellas.
 

RoughNReady

Member
That was just one person that uses, or makes them. Not sure which. I'm pretty sure there are others that do that sort of thing. Anyhow all the magic is happening between the U joints so you never know what's available. Thought I'd bring it up just in case because it's a possible solution to the CV angle issue. It's always good to know what's out there. I'd never heard of them until I was told about them either.
 

Batts88

Well-Known Member
What do you mean by dual sub frame lift and what would be the advantage of doing this? To me it sounds like your trying to strengthen the subframe is that correct are you going to be competing in off road racing events or something ? I've never heard of anything like this before.
 

underdog

Well-Known Member
What do you mean by dual sub frame lift and what would be the advantage of doing this? To me it sounds like your trying to strengthen the subframe is that correct are you going to be competing in off road racing events or something ? I've never heard of anything like this before.

It's basically the technical term for a body lift on my car, due to the fact that it has a monoccoque chassis and therefore no chassis to lift the body from. The entire suspension/driveline is mounted within the individual subframes mounted to the body at the front and rear of the car. So to gain body/tyre clearance, I'll be doing a "body lift" between the body and the two subframes. Does that make any sense?
 

Batts88

Well-Known Member
It's basically the technical term for a body lift on my car, due to the fact that it has a monoccoque chassis and therefore no chassis to lift the body from. The entire suspension/driveline is mounted within the individual subframes mounted to the body at the front and rear of the car. So to gain body/tyre clearance, I'll be doing a "body lift" between the body and the two subframes. Does that make any sense?

Ahh that makes sense thanks for the explination good luck with it all. So much for me thinking your building it into an off road racer
 
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