DIY Drawers (using Bunnings Connect-It tubing)

birdd

Member
I'm looking at building some DIY drawers for my NT Pajero based on the Bunnings Connect-It 25x25mm Aluminium tubing and connectors.

I've got a few questions about this though.
- How do I attach the wood to the aluminum framework? Do I just use metal screws and go through the wood to the framework?
- Its Marine Plywood that is recommended to be used for the wood isn't it?
- Where and what drawer sliders do you get for the drawers?
- How do I safely and securely attach the drawers to the “car” so that they are still removable and don't damage the car.
- With drawers, how is the best way to use 3rd row seat well?
 

Belfy82

Active Member
Hi Birdd

I have just built drawers for my vehicle also however I used 17mm construction ply for mine I got the hinges from eBay Dirt Devil Ind items - Get great deals on items on eBay Stores!

I got the 900mm 120kg locking hinges for mine and they do the job well, the hinges are a little pricey however but will carry the weight required for storage drawers full of tools and recovery gear ect.

Can't help you with the rest of your questions mate but that should be the hinges sorted I have posted some pics of my rear storage setup here
http://www.4x4earth.com.au/forum/my-4wd/27203-toyota-landcruiser-76-series-2008-a-11.html
If there's anything you want to know further about my build just message me and I'll answer any questions you may have

I secured my drawers by drilling through the bottom panel and vehicle floor and used the bolts with rounded of heads and can't help with any other way of securing them

I fount the thread storage drawers with power system very helpfull with my build and copyed a lot from there

Hope this gives you a few ideas and helps with your build

Cheers
Shannon
 

hiluxdriver

Well-Known Member
I'm looking at building some DIY drawers for my NT Pajero based on the Bunnings Connect-It 25x25mm Aluminium tubing and connectors.

I've got a few questions about this though.
- How do I attach the wood to the aluminum framework? Do I just use metal screws and go through the wood to the framework?
- Its Marine Plywood that is recommended to be used for the wood isn't it?
- Where and what drawer sliders do you get for the drawers?
- How do I safely and securely attach the drawers to the “car” so that they are still removable and don't damage the car.
- With drawers, how is the best way to use 3rd row seat well?

Hey mate,
I very nearly started my draw build based on the 25x25mm ALI SHS and connect its. I decided against this for a few reasons.
-25x25mm tube is basically wasted space. You can gain quite a few mm by using ply.
-I was at a loss as to how I could secure the slides to the SHS frame without adding extra supports or flat bars that still need secure fixing to the frame.
-adding more supports for point 2 may weaken the frame structure meaning the draws will not support as much weight safely in time.

To answer you points though.
1. I was planning on nut serting the outside panels to the frame. This would leave a flush finish on the outside for the carpet. 564 PC Blind Rivet NUT RIV NUT Nutsert Insert NUT Sert Tool KIT M3 TO M10 | eBay you dont need a kit, just the tool and what ever size nutserts you decide on
2. I've heard marine ply is the go, but I have just gone with standard ply. Once its all done and I have done a test fit, it will all come out and get stained or varnished to keep water out. I will not be covering it so mine will be a little "unique"
3. I got my draw slides from Dirt Devil Ind. They are very well priced and good quality (you can haggle on price if you get a few as well). Dirt Devil Ind items - Get great deals on items on eBay Stores!
4. I made a ply "base" for mine that bolts to the floor of the car using existing holes. The frame will be fixed to this base using t nuts and angle plates. M6 Blind Nuts OR T Nuts Nickel Plated Steel IN Packs OF 10 | eBay
5. No idea. My 3rd row seats are in the scrap bin.

I used the below draw build for some very well thought out tips. My build is only about halfway through so will add a thread in the DIY with all the details when its done. I hope this helps somewhat.

http://www.4x4earth.com.au/forum/d-i-y/26638-storage-drawers-power-system.html
 

hiluxdriver

Well-Known Member
^^^
Lol Hilux, seems to be the go mate great thread I must say!

You're not wrong. I also downloaded Sketchup and drew my plans up on it. I'm more used to AutoCAD tools but this is still a very easy program to navigate and build 3D drawings.
 

Belfy82

Active Member
Yeah was thinking of using that but I instead just drew up my plans for mine, measured the back up and made the drawer base and sides and drawers first then installed and remeasured for the top board and side cavitys, must admit I did one wrong measure and cut, as I wanted the fridge box removable I have made two Rh side boards one that fits with out the fridge box and another to fit when fridge box is slid in on the second one I forget to ad a little tab on the face of it to meet up with the drawer top board so it was remake that panel how ever other than that it was a fun challenging built for me I must say and I couldn't be happyer with the result

Cheers
 

shinysideUP

5th Annual Victorian Gathering member
I made mine using this method, very simple and idiot proof way if you cant weld or are shit at carpentry. I've stacked fire wood on top, been in a roll over, stood on them, you name it and it's as good as the day I made it. Mine is only a single draw with fridge slide and cavity next to it. No need for thick heavy ply wood on the sides. Something thin just to stick the carpet on to.

- How do I attach the wood to the aluminum framework? Do I just use metal screws and go through the wood to the framework? Yes, That's what I did
- Its Marine Plywood that is recommended to be used for the wood isn't it? Yes, I went 12mm for the top
- Where and what drawer sliders do you get for the drawers? I went for the bottom mount sliders, 120kg load capacity. found them on e-bay.
- How do I safely and securely attach the drawers to the “car” so that they are still removable and don't damage the car. Depends on your Vehicle
- With drawers, how is the best way to use 3rd row seat well? Took mine out.
 

Swaggie

Moderator
I'd pop rivet wherever possible rather than screw it, Aliminium being a soft metal i reckon they'd come loose...

Goodluck with it.. ;)
 

ATC

Member
I used 12mm ply, and liquid nails on all joints.

There are probably better construction adhesive.

When I took this frame out (I brought 2nd hand outback drawers), and broke it up, some of the joins held up and the ply was splitting.
 

Grey Ghost

5th Annual Victorian Gathering member
I made mine using this method, very simple and idiot proof way if you cant weld or are shit at carpentry. I've stacked fire wood on top, been in a roll over, stood on them, you name it and it's as good as the day I made it. Mine is only a single draw with fridge slide and cavity next to it. No need for thick heavy ply wood on the sides. Something thin just to stick the carpet on to.

- How do I attach the wood to the aluminum framework? Do I just use metal screws and go through the wood to the framework? Yes, That's what I did
- Its Marine Plywood that is recommended to be used for the wood isn't it? Yes, I went 12mm for the top
- Where and what drawer sliders do you get for the drawers? I went for the bottom mount sliders, 120kg load capacity. found them on e-bay.
- How do I safely and securely attach the drawers to the “car” so that they are still removable and don't damage the car. Depends on your Vehicle
- With drawers, how is the best way to use 3rd row seat well? Took mine out.

I looked at Shiny's setup up and figured I could do mine better (well different anyway)
I ditched the 3rd row seats in my GU, and built a solid base using 17mm marine ply secured where the tie down points were originally bolted in.
On top of that I fitted a home made welded fridge slide and all ply (12mm) box over it and a double drawer set up.
I used draw slides from Drawer Slides Direct Drawer Slides Direct for both the fridge and both drawers.
I also used nut insets, as used in flat pack furniture, to secure the whole lot together so I can remove it if needed,without breaking anything.
Finally I covered the lot with car/speaker felt. and used spring lock handles to shut the drawers.
 
I just made up some drawers for my tub a few months ago. The 25mm SHS was simple and very light. Don't get the materials from bunnings. It's heaps cheaper from a aluminium specialist. I got mine from Capral here in Perth.
I saved the 25mm in space by putting 0.9mm aluminium sheet as my sides on the outside of my drawers and the inside of my supports. That meant the space between skins was only as thick as the runners.
12mm marine ply was plenty strong enough for the drawer floors and top.
I used 227kg Heavy Duty runners. Probably overkill but I can put 100kg in a drawer and still hang my body weight on it at full extension. 1300mm.
The only other thing I did for a bit of strength was through the middle of the side supports, especially to take the cantilevered weight of the fridge slide was to put an extra piece of tube in with brackets to take both the upwards and downwards pressure that the 1300mm span would have in the middle.
I riveted all the aluminium sheet to the tube, screwed the marine ply on and added a little screw in through the SHS to hold the plastic corners in place.
I also bolted mine through the floor of the tub with 8 high tensile 10mm bolts and big washers.
Hope I didn't miss anything, I'll add to it if I remember something else.
Oh yeah, if you decide to go with the thin aluminium plate for the sides, just out the plate on first and then rivet the runners to the outside of the plate, through to the SHS.
Also. Capral sell a SHS with a little lip halfway down one side that you can use for the bottom so your floor can be flush with the top of the SHS instead of 12mm above it.

I just 10,000 from Perth up to the Kimberly, Gibb river road, Cale leveque and then down the canning stock route. It handled all the weight and vibrations like a champ. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405334543.700212.jpg
 

03hilux

Well-Known Member
- Its Marine Plywood that is recommended to be used for the wood isn't it?

2. I've heard marine ply is the go, but I have just gone with standard ply. Once its all done and I have done a test fit, it will all come out and get stained or varnished to keep water out. I will not be covering it so mine will be a little "unique"

Just a thought for you both. When I build my drawer for my old hilux, I used CD grade ply and sealed it inside and out with epoxy resin. Doing it this way saved me money compared to using marine ply. You can even get the epoxy tinted to a colour.
 

birdd

Member
My reasoning to go with the aluminium tubing was weight, but I would be more comfortable working just with wood :) so maybe that's a better way to go :)

It sounds like eBay is the way to go for the drawer sliders.

I haven't seen or thought of any ways to use the third row seat well with drawers. Only thing I have seen was it used with a water tank and pump which was then plumbed up to the drawers. But I don't need to cart water around for camping so thats not any use to me... I really would love to use it though as I don't want that space to go to waste :)
 

deepop

4x4 Earth Contributer
Load the foot/seat well with spares, fluids and tools that you wont need to get at too easily. Make an access hatch in the top of your drawer system. If you need to get at the seat well you slide the drawers open, move whatever's on top and open the hatch.

Great place to put those things that you really should take but don't need to get at.
 

birdd

Member
Actually I just had the thought, I could possibly mount my air-compressor along with an air-tank in there, only concern would be heat.
 

bentunit

New Member
i made a set of draws using connect-it . don't buy your al from hardware go to a metal supplier less than half price (8mtr $16 ). i used 1.6 gal sheet on all verticals . that gave me more draw space and much stronger . i used construction adhesive and pop rivets so it wont come loose . That also gave the slides a good strong support . Ill take some pics and post .
 
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