Buying without a road worthy certificate

still on foot

New Member
Hey everybody,

Wanting to buy a cheap used 4WD, probably 60 series Land Cruiser(prettier than the GQ Patrol (is that the wrong reason to choose a 4WD!?!)).

Being a foreigner I'm a bit vague on road worthy rules. Seems most trucks I'm interested in on sale are sold without a RWC. But that doesnt mean it won't necessarily pass RWC after I buy it, does it?

If RACV check it out first do they give an indication whether it would pass or not? Is that reliable?

If it needs some work doing to it to pass how do I get it around unregistered without RWC while I fix it up? What if it still has some registration left? Can I wait until it expires before regestering?

Is it taking the piss to get a RWC inspection done before buying to get an idea of what's wrong with the vehicle?

What's an acceptable amount of work/money you might be expected to put into a vehicle for it to pass RWC - I don't know much about the cost of repairs - when would you just say no to the sale? What should I look out for?

That's all I can think of for now... any answer's much appreciated.

Any advice you've got on buying used 60 series? Any advice on anything?! I'd hate to buy a dud, can't afford to, and I can't wait to get out in the bush!

Thanks guys.
 

BEK

4x4 Earth Contributer
Ok in Victoria you need a RWC before you transfer the vehicle ownership between the two parties. Suggest you transfer to protect yours and the sellers interest.

When buying also check out

Check vehicle details before purchase : VicRoads

This site will tell you if it is stolen or has finance on it. If you want to cover yourself against repossessions get one of the certificates (cheap investment)

Beware buying 4bys without a RWC as in Victoria the most you can raise a 4by is a max 2" suspension and a max 2" body lift.

I am sure you have seen 5 or 6" lifts but if the Transport operation boys and girls (Police)pick you up they will slap an unroadworthy on you and you will then have to get it to roadworthy again. Then add towing it (you can't drive an unroadworthy vehicle) and it can add up. Also check tyre sizes match the placard on the vehicle for maximum tyre and wheel sizes (usually inside drivers door but could be anywhere in different vehicles)

If you are good mechanically you could work it out yourself but get an RACV check if you don't know a mechanic. It should be enough to pick up most things but NOT ALL.

if you buy from a dealer minimum 3 month warranty so some comfort but private is caveat emptor (buyer beware)

There is usually a reason why something is sold without a RWC and it usually the cost in getting one.

Good luck

Also check out this site for likely price ranges for vehicles

Car Valuations - Used Car Values - carsales.com.au

Hope this is enough to get you started
 

BUSHNUT

4x4 Earth Contributer
Buying without a roadworthy not all that tricky a thing but usually it suggests there is something expensive to rectify - Not always but you have got to ask why not RWC .

There are a few good 60 series around try to get something 1986 onwards and something with barn doors. I had one , it was an ex Conservation and Lands vehicle , a great machine

You can purchase a vehicle without a RWC, but this means that the current owner must surrender the number plates to do so .

The 60 series was probably the best Toyota made in that the front diff were the same as the rear unlike models since, the earlier 80 did have a real problem with the light weight they had on the front - wasn't uncommon for it to shear when in heavy track work .

A cost of getting one into roadworthy order can vary on what has to be done , on a normal 2 wd you can expect to pay on average about $800.00 if the vehicle looks reasonable .

Ther best shot is to have the owner take it to an inspection place , a 4X4 mechanic and get him to do a once over and to furnish you a quote to get it up to standard, remember anything that old is going to have plenty of KM's on it, not a great problem if it is a diesel but say petrol/gas motor expect to redo the head about every 260,000 KMs.

I would suggest that it would be smart to buy a vehicle with a RWC , it would take a lot of heartache out of it . Unless you are mechanically minded and view it as a project and that you have deep pockets .

Consider a GQ patrol again 93 onwards to 96 also, that was my second vehicle and I was happy with that 4.2 motor either petrol or diesel don't bother with the 3 litre ., has a very light weight transmission/ driveline .
 
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Patriot

Administrator
I bought my Maverick without a RWC and no one has ever confused me for someone with any kind of mechanical skills. BradsGQ and Centaur recommended a good mechanic, and it was all pretty smooth sailing, but there are a few risks, so I was a bit lucky. I did know some of the issues that the old Patrols have, and I looked a a few before I found the right one.

Cheers,

James
 

bmurray2250

4x4 Earth Contributer
Any registered vehicle in NSW and Qld must have a road worthy certificate but some of them are not worth the paper it is printed on. Getting a good inspection done is the best thing you can do. Buying a un-registered vehicle doesn’t require the cert but it is up to you get it mechanically sound so it can pass road worthy when you go to register it.
 

Nux

New Member
Hey everybody,

Wanting to buy a cheap used 4WD, probably 60 series Land Cruiser(prettier than the GQ Patrol (is that the wrong reason to choose a 4WD!?!)).


There is no bad reason to want a cruiser, 60 series are tuff, someone said something about rebuilding heads on petrols at about 260000, mines near 400000klms, and no head work. As others say if you aren't too sure about mechanical things, best to buy with RWC. less chance of issues. And the comment about going through a dealer with the min warranty is a point to consider.
 

still on foot

New Member
Cheers guys, seems like you need at least a couple of grand to get one road worthy. looking at sales for a decentish looking one without RWC for $3k-$4k, with RWC $5k-$6k. Is that about right? It's whether a mechanic does the work or me! Labour rates is what boosts the costs right?

Like Patriot, my mechanic skills are pretty minimal but I'd like to think it can't be that hard to do the work myself, good way to get to know the vehicle, but what would i be looking at doing? What typically goes wrong with the Land Cruisers? The gutter rust seems common - easy fix? Suspension, ... I'm pretty keen to have a go myself - am i kidding myself about how easy it could be?! Maybe do a course in it - any good schools in Melbourne?

So its not a big deal to ask the seller for the road worthy inspection report? Would i be expected to pay for it?

BUSHNUT - barn doors you reckon? what happened to the cruiser after 86? I'll definately go with a diesel.

I feel a new thread coming on - "the complete guide to buying 60 series", any takers?
 

PASSNBY

New Member
ive owned 11 cars now and never bought one with a RWC, dont stress about it just get somone to check it out before hand.
 

BUSHNUT

4x4 Earth Contributer
Cheers guys, seems like you need at least a couple of grand to get one road worthy. looking at sales for a decentish looking one without RWC for $3k-$4k, with RWC $5k-$6k. Is that about right? It's whether a mechanic does the work or me! Labour rates is what boosts the costs right?

Like Patriot, my mechanic skills are pretty minimal but I'd like to think it can't be that hard to do the work myself, good way to get to know the vehicle, but what would i be looking at doing? What typically goes wrong with the Land Cruisers? The gutter rust seems common - easy fix? Suspension, ... I'm pretty keen to have a go myself - am i kidding myself about how easy it could be?! Maybe do a course in it - any good schools in Melbourne?

So its not a big deal to ask the seller for the road worthy inspection report? Would i be expected to pay for it?

BUSHNUT - barn doors you reckon? what happened to the cruiser after 86? I'll definately go with a diesel.

I feel a new thread coming on - "the complete guide to buying 60 series", any takers?

If I recollect correctly the manual became a 5 speed box and that was the start of the unleaded motor . With the barn doors and a cargo barrier, you can pack and stuff a lot of gear in .
 

Traveller

4x4 Earth Contributer
Cheers guys, seems like you need at least a couple of grand to get one road worthy. looking at sales for a decentish looking one without RWC for $3k-$4k, with RWC $5k-$6k. Is that about right? It's whether a mechanic does the work or me! Labour rates is what boosts the costs right?

Like Patriot, my mechanic skills are pretty minimal but I'd like to think it can't be that hard to do the work myself, good way to get to know the vehicle, but what would i be looking at doing? What typically goes wrong with the Land Cruisers? The gutter rust seems common - easy fix? Suspension, ... I'm pretty keen to have a go myself - am i kidding myself about how easy it could be?! Maybe do a course in it - any good schools in Melbourne?

So its not a big deal to ask the seller for the road worthy inspection report? Would i be expected to pay for it?

BUSHNUT - barn doors you reckon? what happened to the cruiser after 86? I'll definately go with a diesel.

I feel a new thread coming on - "the complete guide to buying 60 series", any takers?

The concept on decentish is all yours- you are the one that has to be happy with it. If you're looking at a
vehicle of that age, and you said you're not much of a mechanic, then you need to find someone who is
good at that stuff. Any older vehicle will have problems, that's why we sell them eh! A diesel will be more
expensive to do up and fix than a petrol, but if done right should give you many trouble free kays. Petrols
can now be cheaper to run, considering cost of fuel, servicing etc, compared to gas prices-more to think
about. Suspension is really neither here nor there, as most rigs need a spruce up in that department by the
time they are being sold(could be lucky though)probably looking between $600 to $1000 on a sixty.
Rust can be a major problem depending on where it is. The main issue here is how do you fix it-
replacement panels, fibreglass, bog, tig in a new bit of steel etc.
Gearbox should be looked at as well as a host of other stuff that is particular to 4by's-cv's, front driveshaft
transfer gears etc. You really need to find a mechanic that knows about 4by's and won't bullshit you -probably harder than finding an actual vehicle- and get a report on what needs to be done before you part with any cash.
I'd rather part with $200 on inspections than $2000 more than I expected due to a lemon buy!
 

BILLBY

New Member
looking at a 60

we bought ours as a lemon we spent days in, under and around our rig. the pleasure we have had '''' i had some skill with tools and undertook tasks i didnt think I was capable off but was willing to have a go at ,and we managed to complete all task with only a few bits and pieces left over. Have ago you might never what you are able to do.
the sixties rock:cool:
 

still on foot

New Member
So I test drove a 60 without RWC this weekend, to my untrained eye it all seemed pretty good. started up ok, shut down ok, in and out of 4wd ok, found a bit of steepish off road went up and down it ok, bounced it along the track ok. Braking ok. Not too rusty... Only funny noise it made was coming out of full lock maybe 1 or 2 clunks that sounded like it came from near the left wheel - is that a steering problem or do the leaf springs move about a bit? What did i miss?! Seems too easy!

Obviously you all say get it inspected by RACV etc but what do they actually do more than what i just did? Do they pull it apart a bit and look inside? Can they tell if the engines going to die in 6 months? Is there something more specific to ask them to investigate?

The sellers getting a RWC inspection done so i'll get an idea of any extras to be spent on it on top of purchase price. For $2800 plus a bit for road worthy (poss $1000 ish plus?!?) is it still worth going through all the inspection business. I suppose it probably is... $300 to hear what you know is still better than $3000 to find out you're not the mechanical genius you thought you were...
 
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