Bush Barrier Vs Rhino Hide

Wheresmycat

Member
Raptor coat it. . . . !

That's what I did. On top of that, Raptor is waaaay easier to clean than paint, hides the dirt a lot better and will never need a polish :)

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Wheresmycat

Member
Yes I want to do mine, did you do it yourself?

Nah, got it done while the canopy builders had the tub off. And it was a white ute originally, so I got them to use paint to do inside the door jams etc (smooth so no dramas with any seals). Basically said I don't want to see any white paint unless I get under the cab or in the engine bay.

My only recommendation is do it! I saw a bullbar done with their rattle cans....you'd never know it wasn't sprayed professionally. It's more forgiving than normal paint.
 

phs

Well-Known Member
I got many scratches on my last vehicle. A 200. There is no way you can avoid it on tracks like the ABH east of Emu and the Hay River track. Scratches from grown over tracks like that simply don't cut out.

I tried the roll on stuff sold in some shops. It stuck to the paint and I had to get the entire car sanded back and resprayed. The manufacturer said it is for protection of steel and glass and was never intended to be used on Paint - despite that being how it was labelled and sold. I had even used it successfully on 4 - 5 occasions. The manufacturer walked away but luckily the seller paid $8K for a respray. Don't use this stuff.

I now have the Rhino hide. It is great and being so thick protects from even large sharp branches. You could run a chisel over it without hurting the paint. It stays on at 110 kmph no problem. BUT the front RHS one has come off when a truck passed the other way at 100k. It just takes a couple of minutes to put on or remove. Literally.

It has 4 disadvantages.

1)It is large to store when not in use. A problem if you intend to store it in the car till you use it.
2)It covers the fuel flap. You have to take a whole panel off to refill ( not a big issue)
3)I had to cut out the area for my snorkel.
4)It is a silver grey. It screams steal me when parked up. I painted it to match the car.

It doesn't scratch the paint work if you give a quick wipe before putting it in place.

I'd probably get the Bush barrier if I had my time again. It rolls up into a small space, they'll cut out the snorkle, it is available in lots of colours and iut has a fuel filler cutout. BUT It may not protect as much on tight tracks.

In reality you can only cut paint back a few times and it never comes out like new if you can feel the scratch, for the price of painting one panel, the Bush BArrier seems a bargain in you do that kind of driving.

Thanks for the info,

Ordered bushbarrier, fairly well priced, they cut to suit the Sahara door trims and snorkel

Worth a shot I’ll see how they go, have a Otway trip planed late February
 

typhoeus

Well-Known Member
Nah, got it done while the canopy builders had the tub off. And it was a white ute originally, so I got them to use paint to do inside the door jams etc (smooth so no dramas with any seals). Basically said I don't want to see any white paint unless I get under the cab or in the engine bay.

My only recommendation is do it! I saw a bullbar done with their rattle cans....you'd never know it wasn't sprayed professionally. It's more forgiving than normal paint.
Yes , I want to do it in original toyota grey. The outside paint is faded (clear coat peeled)but in the door frames etc it is in good condition, so i'll be looking into it a bit more. I have a compressor but shed is not big enough to spray in ( full of tools etc) and i am concerned about how toxic the overspray is. Dont want to poison my veggie patch.
 

Wheresmycat

Member
Yes , I want to do it in original toyota grey. The outside paint is faded (clear coat peeled)but in the door frames etc it is in good condition, so i'll be looking into it a bit more. I have a compressor but shed is not big enough to spray in ( full of tools etc) and i am concerned about how toxic the overspray is. Dont want to poison my veggie patch.
Awesome! Mine is tinted Toyota graphite. It looks mean as.
You'll be able to do a closed door respray then. Overspray is minimal and far less than paint as it's a much thicker product and only requires 2 coats (and obviously no clear to worry about or sanding/polishing). Your other option is you can just roll it on and not worry about overspray at all. Hit up Upol Aus on Facebook, they're super helpful with tech info/tips on the product! I'm totally biased, but Raptored 4x4's look awesome.
 

HammyPrado

New Member
I have used Rhino hide for the last 2 years on my New Prado and it is the best thing ive had to protect the pain
 

netarch

New Member
I purchased bush barriers in December and was very happy with how they preformed. They certainly saved the car from some decent scratches. My last trip was a week in the victorian deserts in March after which he car sat in the driveway for 3 days until i could wash it and take off the barriers. I noticed when i removed the barriers that the side of the car that got direct sunlight in the driveway was hard to remove. After washing the panels were placed on a table in the garage separated by the original foam they came with. I put my bush barriers on for the 3rd time today and was disappointed. The side that was in the sun no longer sticks at the top of the stick on panel. This means that at the top of the doors there is about 3cms of the bush barriers that no longer sticks to the doors and will catch the wind and rip off when driving. I have sent a message to bush barriers with pictures and i am awaiting their response. Has any one else experienced this issue?
 

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phs

Well-Known Member
^ We couldn’t get ours to Stick the first time
We suspect one side has been resprayed and the thinker paint was not helping

they say to lay the magnet sheets in the sun to let them warm up and they will stick easier give that a go

All in all bushbarrier was a time consuming process with too many stings attached ( advised to remove and reapply Daily ) car needs to be washed and dried each time ect.
Your issue is probably a reason they need to be removed daily apparently they will eventually take paint off with them if stay on the panel for days and they get hot enough

Even just fitting the magnets was time consuming, can’t comment on rhino hide but they seem alot more user friendly
 

netarch

New Member
Thankfully I didn't have all of the same issues. But I agree it dose take a while to get some of the panels on as they are quite large. To get them on straight is a challenge especially when the top of the pannel is set back from the rest of the panel.

But having to take off each day and wash is a bit over the top. A lot of places it is pretty impractical to wash and remove each day. Even removing them each day isn't practical as you would end up with dirt or sand between barrier and the car panel. I was hoping I could leave them on for the duration of most trips (weekends) and wash them when possible on the longer trips like the Cape etc.

I will give your heating tip a go when I get back from this trip. The car looks a bit strange as it only has the panels which stuck correctly to the car.
 

LongRoad2Go

Active Member
With all the gear and add-ons available these days, there's always the issue of running close to or over GVM. Wonder what the weight of those panels are in total - they seem individually lightweight, but how about in total with all the screws/clips/sticky stuff?
 
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