bringing wiring from roof mounted solar panel into rear of 100 series cruiser

lars cordes

Active Member
gday all. am in the process of putting an agm battery with a dcdc charger (for a fridge) in the back of my 100 series landcruiser (poverty pack). my question is - whats the best way to bring the solar panel wiring into the rear of my vehicle, my main concern is water ingress but also want as neat an install as possible too. would be most appreciative of any help .
 

lars cordes

Active Member
cheers for that mauriceb, nice shrub too. looks good, just ran the cabling from the alternator to the back, looks like i might have to do similar again
 

Batts88

Well-Known Member
When you open the rear door you may be able to pull some of the rubber seal away near the corner and grind a half circle size piece out of the metal lip big enough for the wire so the rubber seal fits back on. When you sell the car later on no one will know it's been done as it will be hidden under the seal as long as you don't cut too much out. We use to do this at TJM and spray the bare metal with tectyl.
 

lars cordes

Active Member
am waiting for my solar panel to arrive but tidied up some wiring to flood lights on the roof rack that was just squashed between the door & the seal which i never liked the look of
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, used a marine fitting called a midget vent or clam shell (used for running sounder cabling etc thru the transom), will look to do the same with my solar, shorter run as its straight in the back where i want it & pretty tidy as well (& dont have to get thru the firewall & muck around under sill trims too). 16mm hole & a grommet under the fitting & a heap of silastic
 

lars cordes

Active Member
so got the solar panel bracket done, thought i might as well stick a light bar up whilst at it. 40watt panel seems to put out enough to keep my deep cycle battery happy whilst car sits in my driveway, connnected to alternator as well & have portable 120watt panel for when i go away. be interesting to see how my bracket holds up, bit concerned about flex when cruising at 100 kph & also when bouncing around on the tracks. being stainless (wouldve preferred mild steel but i used what i had & it saved me painting as well) probably gunna be prone to cracking, esp on the welds, if so I'll just do it again, this time with mild steel (at least i now have a template i know fits, was a pain in the arse to make it in my customers workshop & then bringing it home to see how it fits & seeing what needed altering etc)
 

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