Battery Charger Options.

[RBJET]

I've been running a Ctek for the last 5 years linked to a 120W panel.
I haven't turned anything off and it's run flawlessly since I installed it.
Honestly wouldn't bother with any separate systems and just run the Ctek.

 

[Curl]

So, both Batteries are connected and charging from the Ctek D250s dual from Alternator and SOLAR. Pumping in around 15amps from the Alternator at times on idle.
I just noticed that the most voltage from Batteries while charging is 14.3v.
Thought it would be charging up around 14.6v until it reached full charge.
Maybe Temp Sensor is restricting .....although it's not that hot.
Seem normal to you fellas?

 

[Albynsw]

So, both Batteries are connected and charging from the Ctek D250s dual from Alternator and SOLAR. Pumping in around 15amps from the Alternator at times on idle.
I just noticed that the most voltage from Batteries while charging is 14.3v.
Thought it would be charging up around 14.6v until it reached full charge.
Maybe Temp Sensor is restricting .....although it's not that hot.
Seem normal to you fellas? View attachment 76105

That sounds normal to me. You will see the higher volts when the battery approaches full charge and likewise when the battery is low it will read in the high 12’s early 13’s and slowly increase as it charges

 

[Curl]

OK thanks.
I'll keep an eye on it.
Cheers.

 

[cam04]

So, both Batteries are connected and charging from the Ctek D250s dual from Alternator and SOLAR. Pumping in around 15amps from the Alternator at times on idle.
I just noticed that the most voltage from Batteries while charging is 14.3v.
Thought it would be charging up around 14.6v until it reached full charge.
Maybe Temp Sensor is restricting .....although it's not that hot.
Seem normal to you fellas? View attachment 76105

Read your instructions then you won’t have to guess. Max volts on bulk charge for that unit is 14.4.

 

[Triton14]

So, both Batteries are connected and charging from the Ctek D250s dual from Alternator and SOLAR. Pumping in around 15amps from the Alternator at times on idle.
I just noticed that the most voltage from Batteries while charging is 14.3v.
Thought it would be charging up around 14.6v until it reached full charge.
Maybe Temp Sensor is restricting .....although it's not that hot.
Seem normal to you fellas? View attachment 76105

Its the amps produced that make the difference when charging not so much the volts.

Which is why some people go with 40A for multi bank systems but you need the alternator that can handle that.

I read the other day that as long as the charger draw amps are not over 50% of the alternator can produce then you will be ok.

 

[CTL]

I read the other day that as long as the charger draw amps are not over 50% of the alternator can produce then you will be ok.

Let me assure you that if an alternator only needed half of its output to power a standard, un-modified vehicle with no after market accessories fitted, then the manufacturer of that vehicle would only be fitting an alternator with half the capacity.
Manufacturers don’t waste money on “let’s fit a bigger alternator so the owner can add heaps of shit which we won’t warrant anyway”

 

[Batts88]

Most manufacturers can't even put the correct size wire on an accessories socket either so yes agree with CTL on the alternator size.
Cars these days have an overwhelming and unnecessary amount of electrical components on board to run before you even start adding your own.

 

[CTL]

I upgraded my alternator because it didn’t have enough amps to fully power my 50 amp DCDC (and it wasn’t due to cable size). Then we bought a camper and I added a 2nd 50 amp DCDC to it. No chance a 90 amp alternator could have powered one, let alone both.

 

[Triton14]

Let me assure you that if an alternator only needed half of its output to power a standard, un-modified vehicle with no after market accessories fitted, then the manufacturer of that vehicle would only be fitting an alternator with half the capacity.
Manufacturers don’t waste money on “let’s fit a bigger alternator so the owner can add heaps of shit which we won’t warrant anyway”

That's where it is important to know what the standard alternator is in your vehicle is & what its output is.

They will be different for make & model so the answer is open to the specs, some are 90amp & then others could be as high as 120+amps.

You should do your own research on the vehicle you have & then you can make your own determination it what it can & cant do in that configuration!

 

[CTL]

That's where it is important to know what the standard alternator is in your vehicle is & what its output is.

They will be different for make & model so the answer is open to the specs, some are 90amp & then others could be as high as 120+amps.

You should do your own research on the vehicle you have & then you can make your own determination it what it can & cant do in that configuration!

Yea, I agree but IMHO you missed the point I was making. Regardless of the actual capacity of your vehicle’s alternator, that capacity will only be sufficient to supply your vehicle's normal operating needs, and stuff all more, just a small safety margin. The manufacturer does not give you more capacity for free.

 

[Triton14]

Yea, I agree but IMHO you missed the point I was making. Regardless of the actual capacity of your vehicle’s alternator, that capacity will only be sufficient to supply your vehicle's normal operating needs, and stuff all more, just a small safety margin. The manufacturer does not give you more capacity for free.

No I got your point & that may well be the case but to me its just about the figures & not that manufacturers are tight arses where they can.

 

[discomatt]

I have a 180amp alternator in the D 4 so I think it covers the extra load from the van and 2nd battery