Frankensurf
Member
Keep ya head down, mate. Amazing how it cranked up to cat 4 since yesterday. Hope you get through it okay.
Auto Transmission Cooler
- Thread starter Colinp
- Start date
+1 on the benefits of transmission cooling here as well.
And not all coolers are equal, so do some research, and my preference is to fit it inline with the factory one.
After a tranny rebuild (not an MU-x) at one Auto shop I was getting frequent over-temp alerts on the beach. That shop refused to see it as their problem, so I took it to another to have a cooler fitted during a check and service. That cooler made no difference, and by this time I'd discovered M1 Auto's in Loganholme (due to yet another blow-out) - they let me know why the existing "new" cooler wan't working as expected (basically, it was a PoS and they wouldn't install that particular one), advised what should be put in, they installed it in-line, and I've never had a problem since (on the side, I can highly recommend them - fair priced, and great work) - and their advice was, keeping it cooler makes it last longer.
Manufacturers don't put in the extra cooling because of the $$'s. As mac said - they weigh up the risk exposure, and install the option that gives them the desired reliability at the lowest up-front and potential warranty claim cost.
And not all coolers are equal, so do some research, and my preference is to fit it inline with the factory one.
After a tranny rebuild (not an MU-x) at one Auto shop I was getting frequent over-temp alerts on the beach. That shop refused to see it as their problem, so I took it to another to have a cooler fitted during a check and service. That cooler made no difference, and by this time I'd discovered M1 Auto's in Loganholme (due to yet another blow-out) - they let me know why the existing "new" cooler wan't working as expected (basically, it was a PoS and they wouldn't install that particular one), advised what should be put in, they installed it in-line, and I've never had a problem since (on the side, I can highly recommend them - fair priced, and great work) - and their advice was, keeping it cooler makes it last longer.
Manufacturers don't put in the extra cooling because of the $$'s. As mac said - they weigh up the risk exposure, and install the option that gives them the desired reliability at the lowest up-front and potential warranty claim cost.
reply to Franken..
Yea Franken.
Was a Cat 5 when it hit us. 285+km winds.
Interesting.. We were OK.
New (16yrs) home Cat 3 build on side of hill .
We Just heard a bit of wind as we sat there watching DVD's on TV through inverter.
With Air-cond. Fridges Microwave and electric Kettle.
Older timber homes down in town didn't fare so well though.
Lotsa damage. No Power/water/sewage.
We got power back last night 7pm. But I had my 3.8kva Genny anyway from caravan.
Alot of us have genny's up here just for such. As well as the caravan.
A bit dumb if you don't I reckon.
----
A couple of us have installed those round/finned, 12/18inch aluminium units now.
and we all seem happy.
They definitely drop the temp's and seem not so fragile as the cored ones,
being solid tubular with fins to draw heat away.
Some drag/Rally cars run them across front of vehicle. Others go lengthways to get full length of fins ALL round to draw heat from.
rather than just half the surface as the other way does.
They both work so it ;s really where it fits best for you.
No matter what the mfg,s books say.
If YOU work your car. Tow with it.
Fit a Transm, cooler. It's the best insurance you can get.
And an oversize Rad doesn't go astray either. Manual or Auto.
Yea Franken.
Was a Cat 5 when it hit us. 285+km winds.
Interesting.. We were OK.
New (16yrs) home Cat 3 build on side of hill .
We Just heard a bit of wind as we sat there watching DVD's on TV through inverter.
With Air-cond. Fridges Microwave and electric Kettle.
Older timber homes down in town didn't fare so well though.
Lotsa damage. No Power/water/sewage.
We got power back last night 7pm. But I had my 3.8kva Genny anyway from caravan.
Alot of us have genny's up here just for such. As well as the caravan.
A bit dumb if you don't I reckon.
----
A couple of us have installed those round/finned, 12/18inch aluminium units now.
and we all seem happy.
They definitely drop the temp's and seem not so fragile as the cored ones,
being solid tubular with fins to draw heat away.
Some drag/Rally cars run them across front of vehicle. Others go lengthways to get full length of fins ALL round to draw heat from.
rather than just half the surface as the other way does.
They both work so it ;s really where it fits best for you.
No matter what the mfg,s books say.
If YOU work your car. Tow with it.
Fit a Transm, cooler. It's the best insurance you can get.
And an oversize Rad doesn't go astray either. Manual or Auto.
muc the truck
Well-Known Member
I totally agree ^. I wanted to fit a fan forced radiator type cooler . but there was no room so I fitted the largest cooler I could get in the space . Because its not fan forced on very slow arduous terrain the temp still comes up around 120 deg but it takes a lot longer to get there and cools down so much faster when terrain gets easier . Really happy with how much work I can do with my ute as a result . After 75,000kms my transmission oil is still bright red and its done some hard work .
I am changing it at 80,000.
I am changing it at 80,000.
Yea.Muk.
They seem very good value for money Mine (18in) cost $97 delivered last April.
I reckon the best basics you can fit to your vehicle to give decent improvement without affecting reliability are.
2in lift (with decent gear) Snorkel. Braided Brake lines. Trans cooler. and a basic chip.
in that order.
After that it depends whether you going Bush bashing. rock crawling or touring.
Tyres. Awnings Bars and winches to suit.
They seem very good value for money Mine (18in) cost $97 delivered last April.
I reckon the best basics you can fit to your vehicle to give decent improvement without affecting reliability are.
2in lift (with decent gear) Snorkel. Braided Brake lines. Trans cooler. and a basic chip.
in that order.
After that it depends whether you going Bush bashing. rock crawling or touring.
Tyres. Awnings Bars and winches to suit.
muc the truck
Well-Known Member
Do any of you know what temperature your trany sits at with a scan gauge .
On a trip to Brisbane and Back fully loaded to the hilt with xmas and camping stuff mine sat on 92-115 deg. and engine 87-95 deg. it was hot coming home 36 deg and I noticed most of the time trany was above 100deg.
I have neglected to do a auto service and that's happening on Monday at 95,000kms . workshop says 200,000kms unless arduous work then every 40,000 so even though the fluid is still red its a bit old . hoping it will cool down . just got to buy some 6ltrs of Exxon Mobil ATF-3309
On a trip to Brisbane and Back fully loaded to the hilt with xmas and camping stuff mine sat on 92-115 deg. and engine 87-95 deg. it was hot coming home 36 deg and I noticed most of the time trany was above 100deg.
I have neglected to do a auto service and that's happening on Monday at 95,000kms . workshop says 200,000kms unless arduous work then every 40,000 so even though the fluid is still red its a bit old . hoping it will cool down . just got to buy some 6ltrs of Exxon Mobil ATF-3309
Croozer
5th Annual Victorian Gathering member
We run proper temp gauges on autos at work! Don't always believe scan gauge they take the temp from a sensor that will not give you a real time reading. We run synthetic oil in transmissions. Just as a point transmissions run between 80 to 100 once you hit around 115 or over the best thing to do is pull over and put it in park let it cycle and cool naturally. A proper trans cooler is always a good idea.
muc the truck
Well-Known Member
The temp sender in colrado and dmax like Alison and other ecu transmisions is accurate to the deg. you can trust them . even with a ir temp gun its spot on the money . In my case the colraodo transmission ecu over temp switches on at 130 deg and remains on until it drops below 120 . I was after vehicle percific trans temps on Colorado automatic owners . I have a trans cooler . I also have a heck of a lot of wind resistance having a 2 mtr wide tray and total height of 2.4 mtrs all boxed in like a pantec truck .
Just bought fully synthetic from supercheap 8 ltrs for 78 bucks .
If the sensor doesn't give a real time reading, how much of a delay is there? When I start drivng up a steep range, the Scanguage temp reading starts to climb immediately.
Tink
muc the truck
Well-Known Member
It does give real time temp . that's its intended purpose . he does not know this well he does now . I can see a hill look at the temp and immediately see a rise in temp on the scan gauge as I ascend.
Tink what is your normal tempt range
Just for clarity, I have the current model in which the auto "apparently" runs cooler. I also have an ARB bullbar and underbody protection. Both of which reduce airflow slightly.
Normal running, on flat highway, at 30 ambient temp, between 85 and 87 coolant and 83 to 85 auto trans temp. On a cooler day, the coolant is about the same but the auto temp can drop 10 or more degrees.
Hit the offroad tracks, or a steep incline, and the coolant climbs to the high 90s and the auto temp to around 110.
Only once, offroad, uphill, and in low range, did the auto temp light come on. Manual says to park and idle engine, which I did.
Tink
Normal running, on flat highway, at 30 ambient temp, between 85 and 87 coolant and 83 to 85 auto trans temp. On a cooler day, the coolant is about the same but the auto temp can drop 10 or more degrees.
Hit the offroad tracks, or a steep incline, and the coolant climbs to the high 90s and the auto temp to around 110.
Only once, offroad, uphill, and in low range, did the auto temp light come on. Manual says to park and idle engine, which I did.
Tink
muc the truck
Well-Known Member
That's awesome its all about the same ranges as mine . when I don't have the double decker camper on.
red hilux
Well-Known Member
I've added an external cooler in my car also.
Due to the lack of room, I've managed to get. 7" thermo fan over my tranny cooler, and unfortunately, the only place I could mount it was behind one of the wings behind the bull bar.
I still don't think that this is enough for my car. I think the tranny is still getting hot. It seems to hold the gears lot longer while towing the boat after leaving the ramp and between the freeway. It's a little bit of a hill terrain. Torque converter lock usually comes in at 82, when its hot, about 95. But to get that, I need to push the car which isn't good. More heat, high engine revs
Due to the lack of room, I've managed to get. 7" thermo fan over my tranny cooler, and unfortunately, the only place I could mount it was behind one of the wings behind the bull bar.
I still don't think that this is enough for my car. I think the tranny is still getting hot. It seems to hold the gears lot longer while towing the boat after leaving the ramp and between the freeway. It's a little bit of a hill terrain. Torque converter lock usually comes in at 82, when its hot, about 95. But to get that, I need to push the car which isn't good. More heat, high engine revs
Croozer
5th Annual Victorian Gathering member
Muck That is the general idea! But the best place to pick up the exact temp no matter what box you have to be %100 accurate is where the trans oil exits the box to the cooler not in the box or at internal ecu with these trans. That is why we run our own made up sensors at Wholesale Automatics. We have had a hell of a lot of variances with many transmissions like these. With the change over to synthetic make sure you flush it as best you can if you are changing from standard oil to synthetic. I try to spread the word that 120 is time to pull over and let the auto cool to many people go by a reading that is not %100. Both our scan tools are close but never accurate. Also our nomad valve bodies help the flow for towing and help the trans a hell of a lot.
Cheers Bruce
Not trying to sell you anything but here is the link with a bit of info. I'm sure if any Earthers want our gear I'm sure I could help out with some trade prices to members
Temp gauge
https://automatictransmission.com.a...emperature-gauge-to-suit-isuzu-d-max-5-speed/
Valve body
http://automatictransmission.com.au/nomad-extreme-and-full-manual-valve-body/
Cheers Bruce
Not trying to sell you anything but here is the link with a bit of info. I'm sure if any Earthers want our gear I'm sure I could help out with some trade prices to members
Temp gauge
https://automatictransmission.com.a...emperature-gauge-to-suit-isuzu-d-max-5-speed/
Valve body
http://automatictransmission.com.au/nomad-extreme-and-full-manual-valve-body/
MUDRICK
Member
Muck That is the general idea! But the best place to pick up the exact temp no matter what box you have to be %100 accurate is where the trans oil exits the box to the cooler not in the box or at internal ecu with these trans. That is why we run our own made up sensors at Wholesale Automatics. We have had a hell of a lot of variances with many transmissions like these. With the change over to synthetic make sure you flush it as best you can if you are changing from standard oil to synthetic. I try to spread the word that 120 is time to pull over and let the auto cool to many people go by a reading that is not %100. Both our scan tools are close but never accurate. Also our nomad valve bodies help the flow for towing and help the trans a hell of a lot.
Cheers Bruce
Not trying to sell you anything but here is the link with a bit of info. I'm sure if any Earthers want our gear I'm sure I could help out with some trade prices to members
Temp gauge
https://automatictransmission.com.a...emperature-gauge-to-suit-isuzu-d-max-5-speed/
Valve body
http://automatictransmission.com.au/nomad-extreme-and-full-manual-valve-body/
Muck That is the general idea! But the best place to pick up the exact temp no matter what box you have to be %100 accurate is where the trans oil exits the box to the cooler not in the box or at internal ecu with these trans. That is why we run our own made up sensors at Wholesale Automatics. We have had a hell of a lot of variances with many transmissions like these. With the change over to synthetic make sure you flush it as best you can if you are changing from standard oil to synthetic. I try to spread the word that 120 is time to pull over and let the auto cool to many people go by a reading that is not %100. Both our scan tools are close but never accurate. Also our nomad valve bodies help the flow for towing and help the trans a hell of a lot.
Cheers Bruce
Not trying to sell you anything but here is the link with a bit of info. I'm sure if any Earthers want our gear I'm sure I could help out with some trade prices to members
Temp gauge
https://automatictransmission.com.a...emperature-gauge-to-suit-isuzu-d-max-5-speed/
Valve body
http://automatictransmission.com.au/nomad-extreme-and-full-manual-valve-body/
Highly recommend a decent trans cooler. We see countless vehicle coming in for servicing after they've been to a dealership and have been told '' transmission oil is fine, the trans is sealed and will never need oil replacing''. WRONG!!! They need replacing at 40,000km if not earlier as the factory cooler can not get rid of the heat, the oil breaks down and loses it properties and begins foaming. I have found nissan patrol, hiluxes and prados to be the worse so far. save yourself the $4000+ replacement by spending less than a $1000 on a decent transcooler and good oil, and if towing regularly a transmission temp gauge. T
And doing a Transm "Service".
Just drops a few ltrs of the transmissions actual volume. Does less that 1\2 the job.
You need to connect bypass lines and flush whole system out
(once every two yrs nowadays. I don't work it much)
Go on net and see.
I usually get a 20 ltr drum and use around 14/17 ltrs to get good and red again.
The oil can "break down" without changing colour.
If you do dirt and corrugations much.
A tubular "performance" finned cooler is safer than the finned radiator with fan type.
They don't, normally spring leaks after copping a few thrown up chips and stones.
I have a scan guage. But also an infrared reader. to double check things.
Can check rad hoses. rad. engine block, brakes, power steering box.
Car/Van wheel bearings etc.
great for a lor of things and cheap enuff.
Just drops a few ltrs of the transmissions actual volume. Does less that 1\2 the job.
You need to connect bypass lines and flush whole system out
(once every two yrs nowadays. I don't work it much)
Go on net and see.
I usually get a 20 ltr drum and use around 14/17 ltrs to get good and red again.
The oil can "break down" without changing colour.
If you do dirt and corrugations much.
A tubular "performance" finned cooler is safer than the finned radiator with fan type.
They don't, normally spring leaks after copping a few thrown up chips and stones.
I have a scan guage. But also an infrared reader. to double check things.
Can check rad hoses. rad. engine block, brakes, power steering box.
Car/Van wheel bearings etc.
great for a lor of things and cheap enuff.
Addendum on above.
When towing or heavy work An extra cooler of some sort,
which includes the extra fluid, is nothing but a plus
for any Auto drive line.
Since then. I tow a Caravan.
I have also installed the Wholesale Auto's Torque Converter lock up.
Use it only when towing. and comes in handy if ever going down real steepies.
Sand.mud. Don't know but possibles??.
It stops most of the slippage and hence
reduces most of the overheating through such slippage.
Mine warms up as normal. runs normal. Much lower max temp's.
better economy with van on.
Just remember to turn off when using. at stop signs and lights.
It DOES stall your motor.
With some nasty sounds b4 doing so.
Both are a must do with auto's I reckon. specially when towing.
And always "flush" your transm at service.
Not just std service on Auto.
I ALWAYS go to a transm place for that. never through normal servicing.
They only send it out for. OR just drop pan, Wipe bottom of tray.
swap filter and top up again.
Super slack.
When towing or heavy work An extra cooler of some sort,
which includes the extra fluid, is nothing but a plus
for any Auto drive line.
Since then. I tow a Caravan.
I have also installed the Wholesale Auto's Torque Converter lock up.
Use it only when towing. and comes in handy if ever going down real steepies.
Sand.mud. Don't know but possibles??.
It stops most of the slippage and hence
reduces most of the overheating through such slippage.
Mine warms up as normal. runs normal. Much lower max temp's.
better economy with van on.
Just remember to turn off when using. at stop signs and lights.
It DOES stall your motor.
With some nasty sounds b4 doing so.
Both are a must do with auto's I reckon. specially when towing.
And always "flush" your transm at service.
Not just std service on Auto.
I ALWAYS go to a transm place for that. never through normal servicing.
They only send it out for. OR just drop pan, Wipe bottom of tray.
swap filter and top up again.
Super slack.
Tink.
Only towed van a coupla times since install.
I'm involved with trials on Pain Management
and down in Brissie a few times for surgery'
Again at end of Jan. For the last time hopefully, for Implant system.
(Crossed fingers) Trials went real well.
Temps were Pre.
86/88 to max of 110 ish.
Now. still av around 85\88ish. And climbs to that at pre install time taken too.
But yet to see much more than 94ish. and drops back a lot quicker too.
Plus it don't "hunt" a coupla times t'ween gears from 3\4 way up hills anymore.
just sits in gear that either itself, or you select.
Car "feels" stronger. More like a manual when loaded.
Just remember the. turn off to stop thing.
Sounds\feels 'orrible.
Well worth the money for towing in my eyes.
As is a chip/Flash, and stiffening of rear springs for rolling.
I fitted pr of Ironman Half leaves. over the leaf springs
For mine.
Nearly there.
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY.....(in advance.)
Only towed van a coupla times since install.
I'm involved with trials on Pain Management
and down in Brissie a few times for surgery'
Again at end of Jan. For the last time hopefully, for Implant system.
(Crossed fingers) Trials went real well.
Temps were Pre.
86/88 to max of 110 ish.
Now. still av around 85\88ish. And climbs to that at pre install time taken too.
But yet to see much more than 94ish. and drops back a lot quicker too.
Plus it don't "hunt" a coupla times t'ween gears from 3\4 way up hills anymore.
just sits in gear that either itself, or you select.
Car "feels" stronger. More like a manual when loaded.
Just remember the. turn off to stop thing.
Sounds\feels 'orrible.
Well worth the money for towing in my eyes.
As is a chip/Flash, and stiffening of rear springs for rolling.
I fitted pr of Ironman Half leaves. over the leaf springs
For mine.
Nearly there.
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY.....(in advance.)
Thanks. My water temp is pretty much a constant 86 unless under heavy load. As the trans cooler is part of the radiator, the trans fluid should be at that temp or lower most of the time. Interesting that the additional trans cooler only drops the temp 15 degrees whilst towing. Thought it might have been more but still good to see it keeps it lower.
Good luck with your pain management
Tink
Good luck with your pain management
Tink