Anderson plug to camper

[a1bert]

I need reassurance?, have purchased a camper and it requires an anderson plug. The ranger has 2 circuits, one running from the starter battery to a ctek and then to the second battery, it has a 120 amp Jaycar safety switch next to the starter battery and has worked fine for 5 years
Originally ran the second circuit to a electrical switch board inside the canopy box which is only running the internal canopy lights with a 50 amp safety switch at the starter battery
I want to run the connection from switch board in the canopy to rear of vehicle to enable powering the camper fridge etc
My question is do i require a relay or will the safety switch suffice

 

[Hoyks]

I'd add a relay. Its easy to keep drawing power and run down the starter battery. A relay will save the starter battery being sucked dry.
You may need to upgrade the cabling as its a long run from the battery to the rear bumper and will see significant voltage drop.

 

[a1bert]

Thanks Hoykes for the response
Can i put the relay on the power board in the canopy and then continue the run to the rear of the vehicle?

 

[Hoyks]

I'd put it close to the starter battery so that it gets an accurate read on what the starter voltage is, but its up to you.

If you are unsure, it might be worth taking it to a professional as it is easy to burn your vehicle out if you mess up. Not to mention the frustration of a flat battery and warm beers.

 

[Corndoggy]

What is in or going to be in the camper trailer?
What cable size did you run?
I'm assuming your cable run could be up to 3 meters longer if your going to run the Anderson plug from your switch board depending on the route you took. If your cable is on the small side that will give you larger voltage drop over the run. You need to work out the total run from the starter battery to battery position and work out the recommended cable size for your current draw, I assume this is what the run will be used for. Your existing cable might be to small for your use.
Depending what is in your camper setup you might not need a relay. A dcdc might have its own way of disconnecting with power loss, it depends on make how they achieve it. Don't know how a vsr relay would go with a Ranger as it more than likely have a smart alternator, depending on age. I used normal relays switched from ignition on source in the engine bay. This way I didn't need to run other wires to my tub or camper chargers as ignition signal to switch them on/off. Works for me.
Maybe more info of your existing runs and what is in your camper.

 

[cam04]

The ctek is fused and is an isolator. Run from as close to that with the least amount of switches as possible to the camper.
Ideally you’d run from your start battery to a second dc charger in the camper, but if you use decent enough cable the ctec will do an ok job.

 

[Decca]

Bit late in on this...
If I understand the OPs setup; I would have the Ctek as close as possible to the Auxillary battery and then connect the switchboard to the battery and feed everything off that. Can't see the need for more one circuit. Have decent guage wire from Car battery to Ctek input.

You dont need the Isolating switch at the car battery. It wont hurt if in BUT if you have solar panels and the sun is shining; the Ctek can charge the car battery if needed when the auxillary battery is charged.

Maybe more info of your existing runs and what is in your camper.

Yes.

 

[a1bert]

Guy's thank you for your responses (type has gone dark again!!!)
Ended up doing the old but true option, ran a separate wire from starter battery with isolator cut off switch in 6# wire, seems to be operating ok, was to power fridge in caravan which has it own dc to dc converter