60 series as first 4WD?

Rackers03

Rackers03

Member
Hi all,
got my L's and am slowly getting closer to my p's, which means more freedom! I'm hoping to hit the tracks with my mates eventually and am looking around for my first 4wd. Currently got my eyes on a mint '89 60 Series GXL. bulletproof 2H, 5-speed box, 2 inch lift, dual battery, light bar and two spotties on a black steel bullbar. Only has 285,000 on her and the dealership is asking for $5,900. Just wanted to see what people thought of the old buses and what would be good first mods to do to her to make her more capable.
Also not a speck of rust on it by some miracle so i'll hope to keep it that way.

Cheers, Hugh
 
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L

Lost1?

Well-Known Member
Good vehicle to start out in. I would do a revs check and get the vehicle inspected. Seems very low k's for this type of vehicle. Good luck.
 
Rackers03

Rackers03

Member
Lost1? said:
Good vehicle to start out in. I would do a revs check and get the vehicle inspected. Seems very low k's for this type of vehicle. Good luck.
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Thanks m8. It think its got a 2 inch lift on it already so do you think it could handle some 30 inch muddies?
 
Albynsw

Albynsw

Well-Known Member
They are a great truck, the 2H is a very reliable motor but they are a bit underpowered so wouldn’t be in a hurry to put bigger rubber on it as it will bog down even more driving on the highway when you hit the hills
Just use it and see how it goes
 
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Lost1?

Well-Known Member
Ably is spot on. Play with your new toy before you start adding stuff. Experience using your vehicle will then drive the mods you undertake. We have all added things to our vehicle we probably didn't need.
 
Rusty Panels

Rusty Panels

Well-Known Member
The boys are right, I had a HJ60 as my second 4WD when we started our family. It was an 83 model and at the time a big step up from my little shorty BJ40. Although the 60 wasn't a patch on the 40 in the rough stuff it was way more comfortable on the highway and suited family life better. That was back in the 1980's and my 60 was about 5 years old when I bought it. I hope you're right and it has somehow escaped the rust bug because the 60 series was one of the worst for rusting out due to all the enclosed areas that would hold dirt and moisture. I would be checking everywhere to be sure, and if it's clean block up all the drain holes and give it a gut full of fish oil (still the best rust proofing on the market bar none). My old man swore by the stuff and I still remember him driving with fish oil seeping from the bodywork of his old 69 XT Falcon some weeks after filling the doors and panels with it. Sorry, I digress from the path. As for add ons, I would be saving my pennies and maybe look at throwing a turbo at it down the track. It makes them a far better truck then whacking on bigger tyres. Good luck with it. I hope it's all you think it is.
 
Rackers03

Rackers03

Member
Rusty Panels said:
The boys are right, I had a HJ60 as my second 4WD when we started our family. It was an 83 model and at the time a big step up from my little shorty BJ40. Although the 60 wasn't a patch on the 40 in the rough stuff it was way more comfortable on the highway and suited family life better. That was back in the 1980's and my 60 was about 5 years old when I bought it. I hope you're right and it has somehow escaped the rust bug because the 60 series was one of the worst for rusting out due to all the enclosed areas that would hold dirt and moisture. I would be checking everywhere to be sure, and if it's clean block up all the drain holes and give it a gut full of fish oil (still the best rust proofing on the market bar none). My old man swore by the stuff and I still remember him driving with fish oil seeping from the bodywork of his old 69 XT Falcon some weeks after filling the doors and panels with it. Sorry, I digress from the path. As for add ons, I would be saving my pennies and maybe look at throwing a turbo at it down the track. It makes them a far better truck then whacking on bigger tyres. Good luck with it. I hope it's all you think it is.
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Thanks m8. So would you say the fish-oil is the best way to try and rust proof it? Or is there other/better ways to do it?
 
Rusty Panels

Rusty Panels

Well-Known Member
Rackers03 said:
Thanks m8. So would you say the fish-oil is the best way to try and rust proof it? Or is there other/better ways to do it?
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Hi Rackers, Yes mate, you can't beat the fish-oil as it sticks to everything. Make sure you give the area a clean beforehand as you don't want to fish-oil the dirt and dust as well. We actually gave all the panels a clean inside and then blocked up the drain holes with plasticine (not sure of the spelling but it's the stuff kids play with). Then you give it a spray with fish oil and leave it in for a week or so. We even took of the kick plates on the door sills and made a 10mm hole and then poured it into the sills. Don't forget the tailgate and bonnet either. Make sure to block the drain holes though so while your driving it around the fish oil can really get into the any nooks and crannies. After you have driven it about for a week or two put a tray under your drain holes and remove the plasticine. We actually used a bit of plastic tubing on the end of the spray gun and stuck it anywhere you could think of including window pillars, door pillars etc. We plugged the end of the hose and put several holes in the end so it had a bit of a spray pattern to it. We lived right on the beachfront at Woonona near Wollongong. Dad bought the old Falcon brand new in 1969 and it still had no rust in it when he finally sold it in about 1988. Not a bad effort for what would have been nothing but a pile of rust in those days. So, I have sworn by fish oil ever since. Good luck with it. PS: I just googled the spelling of plasticine and it is correct. You can still buy it too at Kmart and Officeworks. Cheers, Wayne.
 
Rackers03

Rackers03

Member
Rusty Panels said:
Hi Rackers, Yes mate, you can't beat the fish-oil as it sticks to everything. Make sure you give the area a clean beforehand as you don't want to fish-oil the dirt and dust as well. We actually gave all the panels a clean inside and then blocked up the drain holes with plasticine (not sure of the spelling but it's the stuff kids play with). Then you give it a spray with fish oil and leave it in for a week or so. We even took of the kick plates on the door sills and made a 10mm hole and then poured it into the sills. Don't forget the tailgate and bonnet either. Make sure to block the drain holes though so while your driving it around the fish oil can really get into the any nooks and crannies. After you have driven it about for a week or two put a tray under your drain holes and remove the plasticine. We actually used a bit of plastic tubing on the end of the spray gun and stuck it anywhere you could think of including window pillars, door pillars etc. We plugged the end of the hose and put several holes in the end so it had a bit of a spray pattern to it. We lived right on the beachfront at Woonona near Wollongong. Dad bought the old Falcon brand new in 1969 and it still had no rust in it when he finally sold it in about 1988. Not a bad effort for what would have been nothing but a pile of rust in those days. So, I have sworn by fish oil ever since. Good luck with it. PS: I just googled the spelling of plasticine and it is correct. You can still buy it too at Kmart and Officeworks. Cheers, Wayne.
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Sounds like a good idea. Didn't know fish oil would be good for this kinda thing!
 
Rusty Panels

Rusty Panels

Well-Known Member
This company sells it in 4 litre and 20 litre tins. I have seen the brand at Supercheap so maybe they can get it in for you. Otherwise just go to an automotive paint supplier.

Septone - Rust Treatments - Fish Oil 4L

Septone Products is a manufacturer of Hand Cleaners, Body Fillers, Aerosols, Solvents Detailing, Rust Prevention, Polishes, Degreasers, Disinfectants, Deoderants, Commercial Cleaning, Floor Care, Marine Maintenance, Lanolin Lubricants.
www.septone.com.au www.septone.com.au
 
Batts88

Batts88

Well-Known Member
Had 2 x 60ser over the yrs they are a very capable 4wd and can quite often surprise people the places they can get to. The stock 2h will be fine with 31" x 10 1/2" x 15" tyres OME suspension improves the ride a lot over factory they put the time into getting it right yrs ago. I know from personal experence on both vehices that if your headlights go under water it will get about an inch of water into the air filter box no big deal if you stop and drain it out straight away.

Don't know what state you live in but I would get an inspection done from the local road service they will go over it thoroughly this will helpa lot.
 
Rackers03

Rackers03

Member
Batts88 said:
Had 2 x 60ser over the yrs they are a very capable 4wd and can quite often surprise people the places they can get to. The stock 2h will be fine with 31" x 10 1/2" x 15" tyres OME suspension improves the ride a lot over factory they put the time into getting it right yrs ago. I know from personal experence on both vehices that if your headlights go under water it will get about an inch of water into the air filter box no big deal if you stop and drain it out straight away.

Don't know what state you live in but I would get an inspection done from the local road service they will go over it thoroughly this will helpa lot.
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Thanks mate, I live in SA so would they point out any problems?
 
Batts88

Batts88

Well-Known Member
Yes if they do the same inspection as the other states I've had several inspections done by RACQ in QLD and NRMA in NSW they will arrange a time to view the car at the dealers premises to complete an inspection. I have found the dealers have always fixed any outstanding safety issues or worn out items like frayed seat belts decent oil leaks headlights indicators etc so the vehicle is correctly compliant with the RTA rules. They should supply you with a report of the condition of the vehicle and a summary of their findings and recommendations but also taking into account the age of the vehicle so some items would be up to the new owner to replace or repair which should be expected. I would ring your local SA mob and have a chat and ask for a price.

The seals around the rear side windows usually crack and perish with age that would be the sort of thing the new owner has to replace at their leisure. Also check above in the gutters and around the windows for rust it's usually the first place it shows up. If it has a factory sunroof they are double skin two sheets of metal together and usually rust out starting under the rubber seal mine cost $750 to replace 20yrs ago in a Sahara.
 
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Rackers03

Rackers03

Member
Batts88 said:
Yes if they do the same inspection as the other states I've had several inspections done by RACQ in QLD and NRMA in NSW they will arrange a time to view the car at the dealers premises to complete an inspection. I have found the dealers have always fixed any outstanding safety issues or worn out items like frayed seat belts decent oil leaks headlights indicators etc so the vehicle is correctly compliant with the RTA rules. They should supply you with a report of the condition of the vehicle and a summary of their findings and recommendations but also taking into account the age of the vehicle so some items would be up to the new owner to replace or repair which should be expected. I would ring your local SA mob and have a chat and ask for a price.

The seals around the rear side windows usually crack and perish with age that would be the sort of thing the new owner has to replace at their leisure. Also check above in the gutters and around the windows for rust it's usually the first place it shows up. If it has a factory sunroof they are double skin two sheets of metal together and usually rust out starting under the rubber seal mine cost $750 to replace 20yrs ago in a Sahara.
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So the big killer on these old girls rust is the killer, so I'm gonna try and get it rust-proofed and keep it good.
Also would you know any decent turbo kits for... say less than 1k?
 
Batts88

Batts88

Well-Known Member
Don't be in a rush to put a turbo on one good to do some research on them but if you get the car you may have other things you want to add first to set it up to suit. A turbo is something can be added later on even in a year or two but follow the recommendations for boost pressure to keep the engine reliable.
 
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