100 series LC with some mods @ 396K's

[MinionsGambit]

Hey all,

Saw this 2007 LC Sahara pop up at my local dealer and am considering it. I'd be trading in my 2015 Prado with 63k on the clock and no mods.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2007-toyota-landcruiser-sahara-auto-4x4/OAG-AD-20575227

At 396k on the clock of the Landcruiser I'd appreciate your most bluntest feedback as to:

1) Is it worth it? The Prado trade in is currently around $44k-ish, private sale around $50k.
2) If service history is all OK and car in good condition, what maintenance should I plan to do at that high KM's to ensure it's future?
3) I've got an idea of what to be looking for in the walk around, but are there any major clangers that you would recommend as must checks?
4) It has some OK mods, but considering it's km's what would you offer for the car?

Thanks in adv!

 

[hulsty]

I have a 2003 Sahara diesel @ 250K. At near on 400K it will have had lots of maintenance or be needing it. All suspensions bushes and joints will be near needing their second replacement. Steering rack bushes the same, rack itself will be getting tired. My concern would be the adjustable suspension. Make sure its in top notch working condition, can be expensive to fix, hence why many remove it.

 

[MinionsGambit]

Thanks @hulsty. That's going be difficult to check on a walk around.

I just spoke with the dealer and he said the previous owner did "all" the services themselves....I'm now walking away.

 

[Lost1?]

You have what I will assume is a solid low km vehicle. Do not do it. With or without a service history this vehicle has reached a time in its service life where it will need constant attention to keep on the road.

 

[typhoeus]

Not every home mechanic does a shit job, it might be worth a 2nd inspection. I have serviced my vehicles forever, I probably over service them. But, my hilux is over 460k and still reliable. Auto trans I leave to a specialist.but a good look will show up the worn bushes etc, the colour of the oils, grease etc cant tell a lot too. And a pre purchase inspection report gives peace of mind

 

[Karl Fehlauer]

Given that it is a petrol engine may also be a concern - I get it thoroughly inspected before buying. I think that RACV / NRMA / RAC etc can do this for you.

Karl

 

[linuxfan66]

the thing i find funny is its marked act fast but its not sold and its mileage and service history is a joke. is the guy selling it on acid?

 

[Toyasaurus]

I have an 04 100 series, V8 auto.
I paid $17k 4yrs ago, with 131ks on the clock as a one owner with full service history.
It`s a lovely beast to drive, but the fuel bills arn`t pretty.

For an extra 10-20k you could get a diesel auto, with much less k`s.
I the engine is in good nick with a chip and exhaust it will go as well if not better than the V8.
Tow much better and more cheaply too.

 

[Deadweight]

No way I would trade in a low km Prado for that. Even if you need the $15k you'd get on the trade in, there are much better options. You'd be spending a fair chunk of that $15k on maintenance in the near future anyway. Consider that an unbiased opinion from someone who loves (and owns) 105/100 cruisers

Also there's no problem with someone doing their own maintenance, but any good backyard mechanic would have records of everything done and spent on the vehicle. "Doing their own maintenance" and no supporting documentation is dealer-speak for "serviced occasionally and then traded in before it could die on the previous owner".

 

[MinionsGambit]

Thanks for the replies @Lost1?, @typhoeus, @Karl Fehlauer, @linuxfan66, @Toyasaurus and @Deadweight. You've cemented in my head what I was thinking.

I've done the minor services on my Prado, and kept a record of them. I agree in that doing your own services is not a bad thing, however the dealer said there was no documentation / evidence with the car to prove what had been done, which is a red flag for me as, you're right, it'll cost me more to find out in checks and maintenance in the long run compared to my Prado.

My Prado is rock solid and, I'll be honest, was looking to capitalise on the Covid tax that I could sell / trade the car for, especially as I have the low km's to my advantage. I'll keep looking for a better option, maybe even a Patrol with some fruit on it for less.

Hunting continues

 

[John U]

Covid tax

...will also apply to the LC you're looking at.

 

[Lost1?]

Whilst you will win on the sale, you will lose on the purchase. The ledger will be balanced and you are driving a car that will need to replaced sooner than your prado. It is likely to incurr increased operating cost too. Unless there is another pressing reason for flicking the Prado I wouldn't. Wait 2 years for when the people who purchased covid 4wd are cashing out.

 

[monk2]

Hi MinionsGambit welcome to the site mate I own one of these and it is not to bad, on road or off road but mine dose not have the same high KLm's on it, as one person on here said it's not the most economical thing to run on the hiway but with me and the wife going up to QLD we were averaging around 980klm between fuel stops but remember it has a 100liter main tank and a 45 liter sub tank in rear and off road it dose suck a little bit more but it got traction control and all that sort of stuff, trans in these things is very strong but horses for courses main reason I bought mine was for a tow tug for my van and the fact I could not find a low klm diesel tubo unit at the right price so I bought a low klm V8 unit at the right price I service my own 4by my self being a full registered vacc a grade mechanic by trade ( retired ) I spent a lot of time working on 4X4's servicing, trip preps, mods etc but unless you selling your prado because you need a good tow tug, for which you is not keep your prado my eldest son has a prado and my youngest has a 40 series
And I still have my 62 series as well

 

[PhillT]

Not suggesting for a moment that you proceed with this deal, however don't base the decision on Self Servicing.
I recently bought a 100 Series GXL that had been a Fleet Services Australia vehicle for the first 2 years of it's life, then bought by a guy who knew nothing about cars, so had it serviced regularly by a mechanical workshop specialising in servicing.
When I got it home and had a very careful inspection, I found that the MAP sensor filter was cracked in several places and had been that way for some time judging by the oil that had seeped through, and the fact that the cracks would have happened one at a time. Obviously it had never been checked, as this is a well known issue with the FTE motors.
I also found two of the small rubber hoses that go to the air filter had not been re-fitted when the air filter had last been replaced, whenever that might have been.

I spoke to the workshop owner who knew the vehicle quite well, and asked him if the ATF had ever been changed, and he informed me that the fluid lasts as long as the transmission, and they are a "Sealed Unit".
The owners manual states that ATF should be changed if the vehicle is driven under one of the "Special Operating Conditions" listed in the Warranty & Service booklet.
A little research reveals that "....there is a 100,000 km (60,000 miles) replacement interval if the vehicle is used on short trips, city driving, hauling heavy loads, trailer towing...."
My vehicle was used almost exclusively for city driving by the previous owner, so the workshop should have changed the ATF at least twice, but it never did.
The power steering fluid had also not been flushed & changed, so was a nice brown colour instead of the translucent red that it should be.
The brake fluid also looked to have never been replaced, as it was not clear, but cloudy.

I have since fully replaced the transmission fluid, (not just a pan dump & filter change), fully replaced the power steering fluid, and fully replaced the the brake fluid, including flushing the ABS solenoids, none of which would ever have been done by the servicing workshop.
So, if the future buyer of my vehicle walked away from my vehicle because it was Self Serviced, he just might be doing himself a dis-service.
Good luck with your search for a 4X4, and my advice would be to have someone who knows what they are looking for to do an inspection of the vehicle that you think you might buy, regardless of service records, which in my opinion are not much to go by.
Cheers

 

[MinionsGambit]

Hi @monk2 and @PhillT - thanks for taking the time to reply to my post with comprehensive info. I really appreciate it.

So, since I last posted I got an out of the blue update from the dealer today. He said that they contacted the previous owner regarding the servicing of the vehicle to confirm servicing. Here's a dot point version of what he said:

- Car was owned from new by a company and had in house mechanic who maintained the car
- Car also has had a new engine installed 30k ago! He sent me the receipt of the work (see attached images)
- Price is up for negotiation

In the attached images I've cut out the car and company info for privacy. Reading through seems the engine crapped itself and they did a full rebuild - not a new engine. So, because I'm curious, I called the guy who did the repairs, as his details were right on the invoice. He confirmed:

- Yep, full engine rebuild and test
- Car had no other issues present during the rebuild
- Knew the in house mechanic at the company and confirmed that he services them regularly (to ensure they keep running as key to the business) and any issues were fixed as soon as they come up e.g. any leaks or issues wouldn't wait and are fixed straight away
- He advised to check the suspension and transmission

He has nothing to gain from helping me out and was very detailed about the work on the car. He said the price needs to come down, yes, but with the engine rebuild, and no other issues, it could be a solid purchase. As I said before, I'm not a mechanic so not sure if the repairs done don't compromise the engine further.

I'm intending to get the car checked by a 4WD mechanic as I don't think the RACV check would potentially be thorough enough for the security / info I'm after.

So, with that, any further advice from you gents? With the engine rebuild and no other major issues (inc what @hulsty has mentioned) on the table is it worth a punt? Does it change your mind? I’m guessing other parts, if not changed already (starter, fuel pump, steering rack) will need replacing very soon and the $15k will disappear

The Prado is still good and I got ARB to quote up mods I want to it (~$10k).

I know it must feel like I'm hell bent on selling the Prado, and in one way I am - I can't help but feel like the poor cousin to the mighty LC However tempting this is, you’re all very likely correct for me to keep the Prado.

I did check for diesel versions but most 100's were 300km's+..maybe I just need to be patient

Thanks again all!

Post sleep update: yep, I slept on it, even with the work it's had done I think I'd be silly to trade my Prado for it. Apologies for the excited not thinking post!

 

[monk2]

Hi MinionsGambit mate the engine in these units is almost bullet proof but in saying that they DONOT like to be over heated, this engine is on a list that is put out by who I'am not to sure but maintained is on the will do one million K's list along with some other Toyota engines, but it got to be maintained it is one thing they are very expensive to rebuild, change over about $7000:00 plus fitting and parts radiator,oil,filters etc, they are one hell of a bitch to remove and refit a engine to, Toyota say 150,000klm for cam belt, but when you do the cam belt better off doing the water pump at the same time, cam belt replacement about 8 to 9 hours big job on one of these units.
Main reason for over heating crap between aircon condenser and radiator, valve settings check every hundred thou or so they are a bucket and shim set up and not pron to have a lot of wear in them, they are not a great engine for LPG conversions, they tend to have a minor valve prob even with hardened seats put in the heads and the right valves fitted,
Main tain the cooling system fit a temp gauge to it just so you can keep eye on it, no over heat it should go for ever and a day I spent a lot of time working on V8 100 series the auto as I said is almost bullet proof just get it serviced every 12 mouths or so
I am a bit fanatical about mine I service every 5000klm oil and filter, coolant well I use Penrite long life red in mine and penrite oil my auto is service and use penrite oil in it as well this is not a add for penrite but from when I used to race cars I found penrite to be the best for me and have used it ever since my crzzer is great for me never gives any trouble at all, spark plugs change every 100,000klm check every 20,000klm.

 

[MinionsGambit]

Thanks @monk2.
How do you find the auto trans in these? Appreciate its driver and how the cars been treated dependent - Hardy or needs refresh at 400k?

 

[Toyasaurus]

As stated above, get a full flush.
Mine has a Nomad kit and torque converter lockup.
Keeps the temp down to about 55deg/c.
The water pump should be replaced at 150k`s, along with the timing belt, Toyota spec`s.

The standard exhaust is crap, big time, Very restrictive.
I am using Pacemaker headers, hiflow cats and a Rino catback 3" system.
The headers have been ceramic coated inside and out, keeps the heat down.
Sounds just right, not loud but you know there is a V8 under the bonnet.

I`ll be honest I would keep the Prado, the money they want for that one is way too much.
You really won`t like the fuel bills.

 

[monk2]

The standard exhaust is crap, big time, Very restrictive.
I am using Pacemaker headers, hiflow cats and a Rino catback 3" system.
The headers have been ceramic coated inside and out, keeps the heat down.
Sounds just right, not loud but you know there is a V8 under the bonnet.

Yes mine is the same Pacemaker triy's with 2 inch primary's into a 2.5 through high flow cats in to 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust with stainless mufflers main and rear I change the end of mine to a flush cut droopy so it blows down on the road I use a stone stomper when towing my van not want the exhaust to blow straight on it may cause a slight hot spot in it as for the fuel well I run 305/67/17 (33inch) tyres which did not help the slupping side of things but on the hiway average of 7.2 to 7.4 klm per liter or if you like about 14.2 liters per 100klm, towing the van about 3.3 tones gets about 20 to 25 liters per 100klm if you buy a V8 you donot expect it to be as cheap to run as a 4 cylinder tubo diesel but I have had V8,s all my life since I was about 20years old and now I nearly 68 but love my V8,s always have even my old 62 series has a V8 conversion in it

 

[Toyasaurus]

The other thing I use is a unichip, 5 maps, 91,95,98, standard and off road.
ATM mostly run the 95 map on E10 works quite well.

I run round on 265/70-16 Kumho road tyres on the factory rims, quite as and handle`s the wet very well.
And a set of 6, 16x8 steely`s with 285/75-16 kumho M/T`s.

Been a long time since I got 14lts per 100, mostly now around 15-17.
The truck weights in at 3050kg`s at full fuel load with nothing else in it.
I have the front standard 95lt tank and a 160lt in the back. $400 to $500 to fill it ATM, Depending on which fuel I use.

I also had it converted back to rear wheel drive, saves some fuel and no torque steer, but does tend to spin up if I get on the gas too hard.
As with you I love the sound of the V8.